Wave runup on a concentric twin perforated circular cylinder

The regular wave interaction with a twin concentric porous circular cylinder system consisting of an inner impermeable cylinder and an outer perforated cylinder was studied through physical model and numerical model studies. The experiments were carried out on the twin concentric cylinder model in a wave flume to study the wave runup and rundown at the leading and trailing edges of the perforated cylinder. It was found that the maximum wave runup on the perforated cylinder is almost same as the incident wave height. The experimental results were used to develop the predictive formulae for the wave runup and rundown on the perforated cylinder, which can be easily used for design applications. The wave runup profiles around the perforated cylinder for different values of ka and porosities were studied numerically using Green's Identity Method. The results of the numerical study are presented and compared with the experimental measurements.     

浙江省海塘塘顶高程的确定

介绍了浙江省海塘塘顶高程确定时所涉及的波浪爬高，越浪量等的计量，同时分析了1997年后浙江省海塘塘顶高程确定的方法，由已建海塘的塘顶高程分析可见，在背水坡和塘顶有保护措施的情况下，采用允许最大越波流量来控制海塘塘顶高程，可适当降低塘身高度。     

Field survey of the 1994 Mindoro Island,Philippines tsunami

This is a report of the field survey of the November 15, 1994 Mindoro Island, Philippines, tsunami generated by an earthquake (M=7.0) with a strike-slip motion. We will report runup heights from 54 locations on Luzon, Mindoro and other smaller islands in the Cape Verde passage between Mindoro and Luzon. Most of the damage was concentrated along the northern coast of Mindoro. Runup height distribution ranged 3–4 m at the most severely damaged areas and 2–4 in neighboring areas. The tsunami-affected area was limited to within 10 km of the epicenter. The largest recorded runup value of 7.3 m was measured on the southwestern coast of Baco Island while a runup of 6.1 m was detected on its northern coastline. The earthquake and tsunami killed 62 people, injured 248 and destroyed 800 houses. As observed in other recent tsunami disasters, most of the casualties were children. Nearly all eyewitnesses interviewed described the first wave as a leading-depression wave. Eyewitnesses reported that the main direction of tsunami propagation was SW in Subaang Bay, SE in Wawa and Calapan, NE on Baco Island and N on Verde Island, suggesting that the tsunami source area was in the southern Pass of Verde Island and that the wave propagated rapidly in all directions. The fault plane extended offshore to the N of Mindoro Island, with its rupture originating S of Verde Island and propagating almost directly south to the inland of Mindoro, thereby accounting for the relatively limited damage area observed on the N of Mindoro.     

Modeling of the runup heights of the Hokkaido-Nansei-Oki tsunami of 12 July 1993

The Hokkaido-Nansei-Oki earthquake (M _w 7.7) of July 12, 1993, is one of the largest tsunamigenic events in the Sea of Japan. The tsunami magnitudeM _t is determined to be 8.1 from the maximum amplitudes of the tsunami recorded on tide gauges. This value is larger thanM _w by 0.4 units. It is suggested that the tsunami potential of the Nansei-Oki earthquake is large forM _w . A number of tsunami runup data are accumulated for a total range of about 1000 km along the coast, and the data are averaged to obtain the local mean heightsH _n for 23 segments in intervals of about 40 km each. The geographic variation ofH _n is approximately explained in terms of the empirical relationship proposed byAbe (1989, 1993). The height prediction from the available earthquake magnitudes ranges from 5.0–8.4 m, which brackets the observed maximum ofH _n , 7.7 m, at Okushiri Island.     

Wave erosion of a massive artificial coastal landslide

The Lone Tree landslide is located on the coast north of San Francisco, California, and is unusual in that it is positioned within the San Andreas fault zone. Its material ranges from mud through to boulders, which makes the slide particularly susceptible to mass movement. Movement of its western half increased following the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989, closing an important highway for over a year, at which time a large cut-and-fill operation was undertaken to remove the upper portion of the slide so it would create no future disruption. Material cut from the upper slide was dumped below the highway, with the debris extending into the ocean. This created an artificial debris fill that is equivalent to a massive natural landslide, and a unique opportunity to monitor its erosion. Rainfall quickly eroded a series of rills into the face of the artificially created landslide, but the concentration of gravel and cobbles armoured these small channels, greatly reducing the rate of subsequent erosion. Waves cut away the toe, and the focus of this paper is on the development of a model to analyse the frequency of wave attack in terms of tide levels and wave conditions. A beach consisting of cobbles and boulders formed at the toe of the debris, offering partial protection and reducing the rate of continued erosion. In the short term, armouring of the rills and the development of a fronting beach have reduced the overall erosion of the debris and the transfer of sediment to the ocean. In the longer term, the formation of secondary slumps can be expected to renew the erosion. Eventually the morphology of the debris fill should approach the configuration of the natural landslide, an unmodified portion of which remains adjacent to the artificial fill. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi-decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)

Multiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhão inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

海堤上波浪爬高与越浪计算分析

基于线性波理论,采用VOF法、RNG k-ε的湍流模型,通过FLUENT软件平台的二次开发功能实现了质量源造波。利用多孔介质模型,在动量方程里添加多孔介质源项,对斜坡堤上铺设异型块体时的爬高与越浪进行了数值模拟,并通过模拟爬高值率定出FLUENT中多孔阻力系数与多种异形块体糙渗系数之间的关系,进而建立了可供实际应用的海堤上波浪爬高与越浪数值模型。     

低滩上海提护面结构的稳定性试验

回顾了岱山栲门大坝1974年建成以来的运行情况,通过对该大坝破坏原因的分析以及大坝断面形式试验的研究,探讨了在风浪、涌浪作用下大坝的不同护面结构的稳定性.面对此类水深浪高且周期大的水文条件,大坝宜按允许部分越浪来设计,并采用三面保护以及防止坝脚淘刷的防浪冲刷措施,这对低滩上建筑海堤具有一定的参考意义.     

珊瑚岛礁孤立波爬坡的平面二维数值模拟研究

为了探究岛屿周围珊瑚礁在抵御海啸灾害中的作用,采用激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型FUNWAVE-TVD,对孤立波在理想化三维岛礁地形上的传播及爬坡开展了现场尺度的平面二维数值模拟,分析了入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、礁前斜坡坡度、礁后斜坡坡度、珊瑚礁糙率对岛屿四周孤立波爬高分布的影响。结果表明,珊瑚礁的存在总体上可有效降低岛屿四周孤立波的最大爬坡高度;入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、珊瑚礁糙率是影响珊瑚岛礁四周孤立波爬坡分布的主要因素,岛礁四周最大爬坡高度会随入射波高和礁坪水深的增大、礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率的减小而不断增大;当礁坪水深增大到一定程度时,珊瑚礁主要会对岛屿背浪面的爬高失去影响,而当礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率减小至一定程度时,会出现岛礁四周最大爬高高于无珊瑚礁时爬高的现象;礁后斜坡的变缓会使岛礁周围的最大爬高有所减小,而礁前斜坡坡度对珊瑚岛礁周围的最大爬高几乎没有影响。