福建漳浦前湖湾有孔虫群落及其沉积环境

对福建漳浦前湖湾潮间带两个钻孔岩心和表层沉积物中的有孔虫进行分析研究,有孔虫出现在钻孔最上部厚约2.46-2.96m的砂层中.根据群落优势种生态和非种特征判断,该段各样品有孔虫沉积环境均为近岸浅水环境,尽管其间海面有过3次上下波动变化.根据地层关系判断,其当为现代的产物.     

Horizontal spatial and temporal distribution patterns of nearshore larval fish assemblages at a temperate rocky shore

There have been no previous studies of the composition of nearshore larval fish assemblages along the coast of Portugal. We aimed to describe the composition and horizontal distribution patterns of larval fish assemblages and their temporal dynamics near a rocky reef at depths shallower than 13 m (inshore) and at two miles (3.70 km) from shore (offshore), as well as along transects perpendicular to the shoreline, from the reef to 10 miles offshore (18.52 km). Samples were taken using 5 min sub-surface trawls at the rocky shore of the Arrábida Marine Park (W Portugal). A total of 1021 larvae were collected, belonging to 61 taxa inshore and to 29 taxa offshore. Along transects, 626 larvae of 52 taxa were collected. Most larvae belonged to coastal species associated with rocky reefs. Total larval abundance and diversity were higher from May to July, which is consistent with the spawning activity of adults. Diversity and total larval abundance decreased significantly with increasing distance from shore, both in the inshore/offshore comparison and in the transects, where this decrease was evident at a very small spatial scale (within the first mile from the reef). Species assemblages differed in the pattern of distribution, with most species clearly associated to the extreme nearshore. The distribution patterns obtained were independent of the spawning mode of species. Results are discussed in the light of the possible physical mechanisms that can potentially act at the Arrábida Marine Park to facilitate larvae retention and the role of larval behaviour.     

Shallow Water Bathymetry Derived from Green Wavelength Terrestrial Laser Scanner

Abstract

Shallow water bathymetry has proved to be a challenging task for remote sensing applications. In this work, Green-Wavelength Terrestrial Laser Scanning (GWTLS) is employed to survey nearshore bathymetry under clear atmospheric and water conditions. First, the obtained seabed points were corrected for refraction and then geo-registration, and filtering processes were exerted to obtain an accurate bathymetric surface. Terrain analysis was performed with respect to a reference surface derived from classical surveying techniques. The overall analysis has shown that the best results stem from 35° to 50° incident angles, whereas for angles higher than 65° measurements are not acceptable, although for the same angle in front and close to the instrument accuracy is considered acceptable due to the high laser power. Also, high resolution micro-topography, shallower than 1?m water depth, was managed to be captured. Systematic experimental approaches are expected to improve the GWTLS technique to detect bathymetry, which is anticipated to assist in mapping very shallow foreshore, tidal, and deltaic environments, to contribute conceptual into developing hybrid observation systems for coastal monitoring, and also to be applied in various maritime applications.     

中国近海沿岸海温多时间尺度变率及影响其变化的天气气候因素

本文通过对中国近海13个海洋站1959年～2003年逐日日平均海表温度及其相关数据的处理分析,结合中国近海多年逐日天气实况,研究了中国近海水温的短时（1d）、过程、旬、月、年际变率以及海温的长期趋势变化,并在此基础上详细讨论了影响中国近海各时间尺度水温变化的天气气候因素.     

The role of bathymetry and directional wave conditions on observed crescentic bar dynamics

Nearshore sandbars are important features in the surf zone of many beaches because they strongly influence the mean circulation and evolving morphology. Due to variations in wave conditions, sandbars can experience cross-shore migration and vary in shape from alongshore uniform (shore-parallel) to alongshore rhythmic (crescentic). Sandbar dynamics have been studied extensively, but existing observational studies usually do not quantify the processes leading to crescentic bar formation and straightening. This study analyses the dynamics of crescentic bar events at the fetch-limited beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain) using 7.5 years of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed wave conditions. The results show that, despite the generally calm wave conditions, the sandbars were very dynamic in the cross-shore and longshore directions. They often migrated rapidly offshore during storms (up to 70 m in one day) and more slowly onshore during post-storm conditions. Crescentic bars were often present at the study site (48% of the time), but only when the sandbar was at least 10 m from the shoreline. They displayed a large variability in wavelengths (100–700 m), alongshore migration speeds (0–50 m/day) and cross-shore amplitudes (5–20 m). Wavelengths increased for larger bar–shoreline distances and the alongshore migration speeds were strongly correlated with the alongshore component of the radiation stresses. Crescentic patterns typically developed during low–medium energetic waves with limited obliquity ( $\theta \lesssim 20$° at 10 m depth), while bar straightening occurred during medium–high energetic waves with strong oblique angles of incidence ( $\theta \gtrsim 15$°). Overall, this study provides further proof for the important role of wave direction in crescentic bar dynamics and highlights the strong dependence of crescentic bar development on the initial bathymetric configuration.     

海-塔盆地中部断陷带南屯组沉积体系配置及有利相带分析

本文充分利用岩芯、测井、地震及分析化验等资料,对海-塔盆地中部断陷带4个主力凹陷的南屯组砂体类型及分布特征进行了详细研究。结果表明,南屯组主要发育扇三角洲、近岸水下扇、辫状河三角洲和湖底扇等4种典型类型砂体,并从沉积背景、发育部位、沉积特征、搬运机制以及地震反射特征等5个方面,分不同角度、不同层次详细阐述了扇三角洲、近岸水下扇、辫状河三角洲和湖底扇的识别标志;其中扇三角洲主要分布在乌尔逊凹陷和贝尔凹陷的陡坡带,近岸水下扇主要分布在南贝尔凹陷和塔南凹陷的陡坡带,而辫状河三角洲主要分布乌尔逊凹陷、贝尔凹陷和南贝尔凹陷的缓坡带。从盆地边部向盆地中心方向,沉积相由扇三角洲、近岸水下扇和辫状河三角洲沉积逐渐过渡为半深湖-深湖相沉积,局部半深湖-深湖相中发育湖底扇沉积体系,整体具有“南北分块、东西分带”的沉积格局。综合研究表明,扇三角洲前缘、近岸水下扇中扇和辫状河三角洲前缘砂体是油气富集的有利沉积相带,而洼槽边缘的湖底扇砂体为岩性油气藏勘探的重点对象。     

基于单景高分辨率光学卫星遥感影像的浅海水下地形提取

本文基于海浪波折射现象和浅水波理论,提出了一种基于单景高分辨率光学遥感影像的浅海地形提取方法。首先,基于浅水波理论推导出适用于浅海区域的水深与海浪波长、频率的定量关系,针对近岸光学遥感图像复杂的海浪特征,讨论了两种海浪波长提取方法,即FFT方法和剖面线法。然后提出了基于长距离波长波动分析的海浪频率计算方法,解决了单景遥感影像的波浪频率计算难题。最后,利用单景QuickBird高分辨率光学遥感影像,以海南岛三亚湾为研究区域进行了应用实验,结果表明,对12m以浅的浅海区域,在不需要任何辅助参数的情况下,反演获得了浅海地形(DEM),经与1:25000比例尺海图的水深对比验证,地形趋势吻合良好,反演水深的均方根误差为1.07m,相对水深误差为16.2%,表明该方法适合于浅海水下地形的提取,且具有无需实测水深数据和环境参数的支持的优点。     

Numerical simulation and preliminary analysis of typhoon waves during three typhoons in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea

In this study,typhoon waves generated during three typhoons(Damrey(1210),Fung-wong(1416),and Chan-hom(1509))in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were simulated in a simulating waves nearshore(SWAN)model,and the wind forcing was constructed by combining reanalyzed wind data with a Holland typhoon wind model.Various parameters,such as the Holland fitting parameter(B)and the maximum wind radius?,were investigated in sensitivity experiments in the Holland model that affect the wind field construction.Six different formulations were considered and the parameters determined by comparing the simulated wind results with in-situ wind measurements.The key factors affecting wave growth and dissipation processes from deep to shallow waters were studied,including wind input,whitecapping,and bottom friction.Comparison with in-situ wave measurements suggested that the KOMEN scheme(wind input exponential growth and whitecapping energy dissipation)and the JONSWAP scheme(dissipation of bottom friction)resulted in good reproduction of the significant wave height of typhoon waves.A preliminary analysis of the wave characteristics in terms of wind-sea and swell wave revealed that swell waves dominated with the distance of R to the eye of the typhoon,while wind-sea prevailed in the outer region up to six to eight times the R values despite a clear misalignment between wind and waves.The results support the hypothesis that nonlinear wave-wave interactions may play a key role in the formation of wave characteristics.     

黄河三角洲孤东近岸冲淤演变及其影响因素

为更好地了解近40年来孤东近岸的演变过程,以研究区剖面水深地形、Landsat影像和利津站水沙数据为数据源,采用遥感技术及数理统计法对研究区域岸线及面积变化进行监测计算,并分析1976—1986年、1986—1996年、1996—2002年、2002—2014年4个不同阶段的冲淤演变及影响因素。结果表明:(1)孤东近岸经历"强淤积-冲淤平衡-侵蚀-强侵蚀"4个阶段。孤东近岸海域由淤积向侵蚀转变始于1996年,且在2002—2014年间侵蚀最为严重,大部分近岸海域蚀深达到6～8 m,侵蚀最大深度超过8 m;(2)等深线变化时空差异明显,蚀退最先出现在北侧,且近岸5 m水深区域内冲淤变化较水深10 m内敏感;(3)研究区近岸侵蚀,离岸淤积,剖面冲淤平衡位置由CS19剖面的11 m水深变化到CS21剖面的5m水深;(4)黄河入海水沙的减少、河口人工改汊、孤东大堤建设和海洋动力作用都对孤东近岸的冲淤演变产生影响,维持研究区冲淤平衡的年均来沙阈值为3.78亿t/a。通过此来进一步探究孤东近岸演变进程,为孤东近岸防护提供科学指导。     

Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

We observed the onshore migration (3.5 m/day) of a nearshore sandbar at Tairua Beach, New Zealand during 4 days of low-energy wave conditions. The morphological observations, together with concurrent measurements of waves and suspended sediment concentrations, were used to test a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore model. Because of the coarse bed material and the relatively low-energy conditions, the contribution of the suspended transport to the total transport was predicted and observed to be negligible. The model predicted the bar to move onshore because of the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload, and the sandbar under weakly to non-breaking conditions at high tide. The predicted bathymetric evolution contrasts, however, with the observations that the bar migrated onshore predominantly at low tide. Also, the model flattened the bar, while in the observations the sandbar retained its steep landward-facing flank. A comparison between available observations and numerical simulations suggests that onshore propagating surf zone bores in very shallow water (< 0.25 m) may have been responsible for most of the observed bar behaviour. These processes are missing from the applied model and, given that the observed conditions can be considered typical of very shallow sandbars, highlight a priority for further field study and model development. The possibility that the excess water transported by the bores across the bar was channelled alongshore to near-by rip-channels further implies that traditional cross-shore measures to judge the applicability of a cross-shore morphodynamic model may be misleading.