Barrier‐spit geomorphology and inlet dynamics in absence of tides: evolution of the North Pond system,eastern Lake Ontario,New York State

Barrier systems have received much attention along microtidal oceanic coastlines, where countless studies discuss their evolution in response to Holocene sea‐level rise, storm influence, and anthropogenic impacts. Lacustrine barrier evolution is not as well investigated and little is known about how lake‐specific hydrodynamic processes shape barrier morphology. This study evaluates the evolution of a highly dynamic barrier section along eastern Lake Ontario in the context of varying water levels and winter‐ice covers. Paleoshoreline reconstructions and volumetric analyses of nearshore sedimentation indicate the central portion of the studied North Pond barrier has been breached many times in different locations throughout the last century. Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) data corroborate mapped locations of former inlets, bound at the surface by recurved spit and dune ridges. Subsurface structural controls on inlet position are inferred from a spatial correlation with buried incised fluvial channels, formed during a Holocene lake‐level lowstand. While subsurface controls caused two separate historical inlets to remain stationary while open, an episode of rapid inlet migration elsewhere along the barrier was facilitated by the prevailing direction of coastal currents and high lake levels, which favored overwash and rapid longshore sediment mobility across a low‐gradient barrier section. Additionally, the sudden closing of an inlet after many decades of operation coincidental with the opening of another suggestively occurred alongside unusually high lake levels. These correlations suggest the degree of coastal inundation, predominantly a function of fluctuating lake levels and antecedent topography, represent strong controls on overall barrier geomorphology over decadal timescales. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Sediment transport measurements with tracers in very low‐energy beaches

This study investigates sediment transport at a very low‐energy backbarrier beach in southern Portugal, from a spring‐to‐neap tide period, during fair‐weather conditions. Rates and directions of transport were determined based on the application of fluorescent tracer techniques. Wind and currents were collected locally, whereas the dominant small and short‐period wind waves were characterized using a morphodynamic modelling system coupling a circulation model, a spectral wave model, and a bottom evolution model, well validated over the study area. For the recorded conditions sediment transport was small and ebb oriented, with daily transport rates below 0.02 m³ day^‐1. Tidal currents (mainly ebb velocities) were found to be the main causative forcing controlling sediment displacements. Transport rates were higher during spring tides, tending towards very small values at neap tides. Results herein reported points towards the distinction between tracer advection and tracer dispersion in this type of environment. Transport by advection was low as a consequence of the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (H_s < 0.1 m, and max. current velocity of 0.5 m s^‐1) and the tracer adjustment to the transport layer, whereas dispersion was relatively high (few metres per day). Tracer techniques allowed distinguishing the broad picture of transport, but revealed the need for refinement in this type of environments (bi‐directional forcing by ebb and flood cycles). Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.