Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.     

Influence of Current Width Variation on the Annual Mean Transport of the East Sakhalin Current: A Simple Model

Recent observations suggest that the annual mean southward transport of the East Sakhalin Current (ESC) is significantly larger than the annual mean Sverdrup transport. Motivated by this observational result, transport of a western boundary current has been investigated using a simple numerical model with a western slope. This transport is defined as the instantaneous barotropic transport integrated from the western boundary to the offshore point where the barotropic velocity vanishes. The model, forced by seasonally varying wind stress, exhibits an annual mean of the western boundary current transport that is larger than that of the Sverdrup transport, as observed. The southward transport from October to March in the model nearly equals the instantaneous Sverdrup transport, while the southward transport from April to September decreases slowly. Although the Sverdrup transport in July vanishes, the southward transport in summer nearly maintains the annual mean Sverdrup transport, because the barotropic Rossby wave cannot intrude on the western slope. This summer transport causes the larger annual mean. Although there are some uncertainties in the estimation of the Sverdrup transport in the Sea of Okhotsk, the seasonal variation of the southward transport in the model is qualitatively similar to the observations.     

Coastal Upwelling Activity on the Pacific Shelf of the Baja California Peninsula

High primary productivity on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula is usually related to coastal upwelling activity that injects nutrients into the euphotic zone in response to prevailing longshore winds (from the northwest to north). The upwelling process has maximum intensity from April to June, with the coastal upwelling index varying from 50 to 300 m³/s per 100 m of coastline. Along the entire coast of the peninsula, the upwelling intensity changes in accordance with local wind conditions and bottom topography. Spatial variability can also be modulated by the influence of mesoscale meanders of the California Current. We have identified the seasonal and synoptic variability of upwelling signatures on the Baja California shelf, using averaged monthly and weekly sea surface temperature (SST) distributions obtained from remote sensing imagery from the Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer in the period from 1996 to 2001. Analysis of SST distribution and direct experimental data on temperature and nutrient concentration shows that the areas with the coldest SST anomalies were closely related to the bottom slope, shelf width, and coastline orientation relating to wind direction. We also assume that the nutrient transport into the coastal lagoons may be forced by the coupling of coastal upwelling and tidal pumping of surface waters into the lagoon system. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Images of the seabed in the Faroe-Shetland Channel from commercial 3D seismic data

A large number of 3D deep seismic surveys in the Faroe-Shetland Channel gives continuous coverage over most of the region. These surveys were designed primarily to image depths in excess of 4 km, use low frequency sources and are recorded at low temporal sample rates. However, commercial 3D data can generate highly detailed images of the seabed due to the high spatial sample rate, typically 12.5 m. This is particularly true in waters below 200 m. Despite geophysical artefacts, the images reveal that there are a number of sedimentary processes at work adjacent to and within this channel. On the West Shetland Shelf, iceberg scouring and moraines reflect the impact of glaciation. On the West Shetland slope there is clear evidence for down-slope processes, such as debris flows, linear erosion channels, basal fans and (one case) slope failure. Along-slope processes are also active as indicated by the presence of sediment waves and contourite mounds. On the floor of the basin, polygonal cracking can be observed. The most spectacular feature appears to be the Judd Deeps, a system of cliffs approximately 200 m high and 40 km across. Traditionally, seabed investigation has been performed using high-resolution surveys. This study shows that deep exploration data can also provide useful images of the seafloor.     

中国南极中山锚地勘测

本文介绍了南极中山锚地的选择条件,勘测实施过程及水文、气象特点,并对测量区域作了分析研究与评价,科学地确定了适合科考船抛锚的锚地,致使“雪龙”船首次在中山锚地抛锚试抛成功,结束了中山站附近海域无锚地的历史。     

中尺度地形扰动的非线性问题半解析解

将大气和海洋中f-平面上中尺度地形的扰动问题统一起来作为一个地球物理流体力学问题，应用涡度、能量和经圈动量守恒条件，将原来高度非线性方程变成一个二阶椭园型非线性方程，用数值模拟方法分析了大气中的过山运动和海洋中的沿岸上升流，给出了与观测接近的模拟结果以及运动过程对内部物理参数和外界条件的敏感性分析。所提方法可供进一步的动力学分析和数值研究参考。     

The impact of shrimp trawling and associated sediment resuspension in mud dominated, shallow estuaries

To address the relative importance of shrimp trawling on seabed resuspension and bottom characteristics in shallow estuaries, a series of disturbance and monitoring experiments were conducted at a bay bottom mud site (2.5 m depth) in Galveston Bay, Texas in July 1998 and May 1999. Based on pre- and post-trawl sediment profiles of ⁷Be; pore water dissolved oxygen and sulfide concentration; and bulk sediment properties, it was estimated that the trawl rig, including the net, trawl doors, and “tickler chain,” excavate the seabed to a maximum depth of approximately 1.5 cm, with most areas displaying considerably less disturbance. Water column profile data in the turbid plume left by the trawl in these underconsolidated muds (85–90% porosity; <0.25 kPa undrained shear strength) demonstrate that suspended sediment inventories of up to 85–90 mg/cm² are produced immediately behind the trawl net; an order of magnitude higher than pre-trawl inventories and comparable to those observed during a 9–10 m/s wind event at the study site. Plume settling and dispersion caused suspended sediment inventories to return to pre-trawl values about 14 min after trawl passage in two separate experiments, indicating particles re-settle primarily as flocs before they can be widely dispersed by local currents. As a result of the passage of the trawl rig across the seabed, shear strength of the sediment surface showed no significant increase, suggesting that bed armoring is not taking place and the trawled areas will not show an increase in critical shear stress.     

“数字海底”系统建模中的关键技术研究

基于“数字海底”系统的理论基础研究和在海底科学应用中的具体实践,提出了“数字海底”的涵义、系统组成和体系结构,对空间数据管理技术、基于XML的WebGIS空间数据表达技术、复杂海底三维建模技术、多源信息的一体化集成显示技术、虚拟现实技术等“数字海底”系统建模中的关键技术进行了探讨,为从事海底资源研究和开发的人员提供各个层次的参考或帮助.     

埕岛油田海区海底地形变化及预防措施

综合在胜利石油管理局埕岛油田海区多年来工程测绘与地质勘察资料 ,对埕岛油田海区地形地貌特征及其变化与发育趋势进行了论述 ,同时讨论了埕岛油田海上工程中需要重视的问题以及有关的工程防护问题。