海浪波群的谱特征分析

海浪的波谱特征分析对认识海浪有重要的意义，因为海浪谱反映了海浪的结构成分。这对海工建筑、海洋运输、船舶制造、海浪预报和海浪模拟等均有重要的实用意义。 波群是伴随海浪经常出现的一种自然现象，且经常伴随大浪的出现而出现。实践证明，波群具有极大的破坏力，其破坏性远比单个波大得多，它是海浪破坏海工建筑物的重要因子，许多防波堤的破坏并非是由单个波的作用，而是由相继出现的几个大波(波群)作用的结果。早先，人们对波群这种习见的现象研究甚少。自1974年葡萄牙锡尼斯港深水防波堤的破坏之后，对波群的研究才日益受到重视。 对波群的研究目前多采用包络方法、马尔科夫链方法和波能过程线法。波群研究的主要内容是波群的统计特征(如波群链长统计)；另外，波群的模拟也是重要的研究内容之一。目前用包络方法研究波群比较普遍，且有不少研究成果。徐德伦等(2001)综述了这方面的研究进展及结果，文圣常等(1984)也进行了详尽的讨论。 以往的研究大都是研究波群的统计特征，如合田良实(1976)、 Ewing(1973)、Rye(1974)。而针对地域性的波浪，我国学者也只是以包络方法为基础讨论了不同地域海浪波群的统计特征(常德馥，1987；葛明达，1986；范顺庭，1998)。就波群本身的结构特征而言，即波群的波谱分析特征以往的研究涉及尚少。作者拟借助于谱分析方法，对带有典型波群的实测的海浪记录来分析海浪波群的波谱结构，进而借此对海浪波群的结构特征进行深入探讨。     

青岛冷水团的消亡机理研究

本文基于多年月平均水温资料,分析了青岛冷水团的长消过程,并利用气候态月平均大气数据和数值模拟结果,探讨了青岛冷水团的消亡机理。结果表明,青岛冷水团3月出现,4月成型,5月最盛,6月减弱,7月消失;南黄海6-7月间偏南风的增强和温跃层以下反气旋涡的减弱是青岛冷水团消亡的动力机制,而海面净热通量的下传和水平热量的输入则是青岛冷水团消亡的热力机制。     

基于生态文明思想的围填海历史遗留问题处理理论与实践——以大连港太平湾港区和中新天津生态城为例

长期大规模围填海活动在振兴沿海地区经济的同时,也严重破坏了海岸带生态系统。文章梳理了关于加强滨海湿地保护、严格管控围填海的一系列政策要求与技术指南;以大连港太平湾港区和中新天津生态城为例,分别分析了港口工业区和滨海生态旅游区的围填海历史遗留问题处理与生态保护修复实践,并提出了生态优先,绿色发展;自然恢复为主,人工修复为辅;陆海统筹,生态融合;问题导向,科学修复;科技支撑,示范带动等新发展阶段下海洋生态保护修复的建议。     

东海西部陆架海域水团的季节特征分析

On the basis of the CTD data and the modeling results in the winter and summer of 2009, the seasonal characteristics of the water masses in the western East China Sea shelf area were analyzed using a cluster analysis method. The results show that the distributions and temperature-salinity characteristics of the water masses in the study area are of distinct seasonal difference. In the western East China Sea shelf area, there are three water masses during winter, i.e., continental coastal water（CCW）, Taiwan Warm Current surface water（TWCSW） and Yellow Sea mixing water（YSMW）, but four ones during summer, i.e., the CCW, the TWCSW, Taiwan Warm Current deep water（TWCDW） and the YSMW. Of all, the CCW, the TWCSW and the TWCDW are all dominant water masses. The CCW, primarily characterized by a low salinity, has lower temperature, higher salinity and smaller spatial extent in winter than in summer. The TWCSW is warmer, fresher and smaller in summer than in winter, and it originates mostly from the Kuroshio surface water（KSW） northeast of Taiwan, China and less from the Taiwan Strait water during winter, but it consists of the strait water and the KSW during summer. The TWCDW is characterized by a low temperature and a high salinity, and originates completely in the Kuroshio subsurface water northeast of Taiwan.     

创造良好地质环境 服务地方经济建设——山东省庆云县实施地下水环境质量调查评价

庆云县是山东省欠发达县区之一,也是国家级重点扶贫县。由于该县自然条件较差,多年来,淡水资源的匮乏一直困扰着全县工农业生产的发展和人民生活水平的提高。近几年来,随着人类经济活动的加剧,又出现了许多新的环境地质问题,严重阻碍了全县社会经济的持续发展。为此,庆云县实施了地下水环境质量调查评价。该项目主要是调查评价目前地下水环境质量状况,为合理开发和保护地下水资源,改善生态环境,促进地方经济发展,提出地质科学依据。其主要工作任务:一是调查了解区内地形、地貌及水文地质条件,初步查明浅层地下水含水层的埋藏规律、分布特征;…     

台湾以东黑潮的低频变化及机制研究

本文基于AVISO（Archiving, Validation and Interpretation of Satellite Oceanographic data）1993-2015年间的海表面绝对动力高度数据,研究了台湾以东黑潮的低频变化特征,并探讨了影响其变化的机制。结果表明,台湾以东多年平均的黑潮流幅值约为136 km,表层流量值约为7.75×104 m2/s,对应的标准差分别为28 km和2.14×104 m2/s。台湾以东黑潮不仅具有显著的季节变化特征,还具有显著的年际变化特征。功率谱分析结果表明,台湾以东黑潮表层流量具有1 a和2.8 a的显著周期。空间上,台湾东南部黑潮的年际变化幅度比东北部强烈。相关性及合成分析结果表明,台湾以东黑潮的年际变化与PTO（Philippines-Taiwan Oscillation）之间存在显著的相关性。PTO年际震荡所导致的副热带逆流区反气旋式涡旋与气旋式涡旋的相对强度是影响台湾以东黑潮年际变化的主要动力因素。     

The effect of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge during Typhoon Saomai (2006)

The effects of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge were simulated during Typhoon Saomai using a wave-current coupled model based on ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) ocean model and SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) wave model.The results show that radiation stress can cause both set-up and set-down in the storm surge.Wave-induced set-up near the coast can be explained by decreasing significant wave heights as the waves propagate shoreward in an approximately uniform direction;wave-induced set-down far from the coast can be explained by the waves propagating in an approximately uniform direction with increasing significant wave heights.The shoreward radiation stress is the essential reason for the wave-induced set-up along the coast.The occurrence of set-down can be also explained by the divergence of the radiation stress.The maximum wave-induced set-up occurs on the right side of the Typhoon path,whereas the maximum wave induced set-down occurs on the left side.     

Sea-level changes controlled detrital sediment inputs to the Bicol Shelf in the western Philippine Sea since 150 ka

Detrital sediments derived from the Philippine Islands are one of the main sources of deep-sea sediments in the western Philippine Sea.However,systematic research on their characteristics and transport mechanisms are lacking.We used parametric end-member analysis to quantitatively partition the grain size of detrital sediments in core MD06-3052 from the Bicol Shelf in the western Philippine Sea;three endmembers EMI,EM2,and EM3,whose respective modes were at 2,10,and 45 μm,were separated.We also measured the Sr and Nd isotopic compositions of different size fractions(4 and 20 μm) of the detrital sediments and the results showed that the detrital sediments mainly originate from the Philippine Islands.Components EMI and EM2 are transported to the Bicol Shelf mainly by surface and bottom currents from the islands,and component EM3 is delivered by gravity flow from the exposed shelf during low sea-level stands.The content of the total detrital fraction and the three end-members,as well as the mass accumulation rates(MARs) of the coarse detritus(EM2 and EM3),were considerably higher during glacial periods(40-14 ka and 150-130 ka) than during other intervals;the glacials corresponded to a low sea level,while the MAR of the fine detritus(EMI) did not increase remarkably during 40-14 ka.We therefore concluded that the input of coarse detritus to the Bicol Shelf from the islands was mainly controlled by sea-level change.Variations of the input of fine-grained detritus(EM1) was influenced not only by sea level but also by ocean currents and regional precipitation.Overall,our results help understand "source-to-sink" processes in the western Pacific marginal seas and their response to global change.     

The importance of wave-tide-surge interaction to coastal material transport and diffusion

This study is to combine a coastal high-resolution (2′×2′) two-way coupled wave-tide-surge numerical model (including 3 main physical mechanisms) with a material transport/diffusion model for understanding the law of material transport/diffusion. Results show that the law of material trans- port/diffusion driven by background current field simulated by the coupled wave-tide-surge model is dif- ferent from that simulated by pure tide-surge, and more different from traditional ones driven by tidal current. The coupled background current should be taken into account for the simulation.     

东海与邻近海域水、热、盐通量的季节变化研究

本文基于高分辨率的区域海洋数值模式对东海及邻近海域进行温、盐、流的数值模拟,模拟结果与实测结果拟合较好。结果表明:东海与邻近海域的水交换过程具有显著的季节变化特征。从流量的角度看,台湾海峡、台湾-西表岛之间水道和西表岛-冲绳岛之间水道是外海水流入东海的3个主要水道,而冲绳岛-奄美大岛、吐噶喇海峡、大隅海峡、济州岛东部和黄东海断面是海水流出东海的水道;其年平均体积输运值分别为1.06×106 m3/s、20.49×106 m3/s、3.20×106 m3/s、-0.92×106 m3/s、-20.59×106 m3/s、-0.30×106 m3/s、-2.37×106 m3/s和-0.37×106 m3/s（向内为正）。对比发现,东海与邻近海域之间各水道的体积、热量和盐量输运均具有相似的季节变化趋势,其最大值往往出现在夏季（7月或8月）,最小值往往出现在冬季（1月或2月）。从7月到11月整个东海是流量净流出的过程,而从12月到翌年6月是流量净流入的过程,全年流量基本上保持平衡状态。东海终年存在向黄海的净输入,其体积、热量和盐量的年平均输运值分别为0.37×106 m3/s,0.027×1015 W和12.7×106 kg/s。