THE WAVE GROUPING EFFECT ON WAVE FORCES ON A VERTICAL BREAKWATER

Linear wave theory and Longuet-Higgins and Steward's (1964) group-induced second-order longweve (GSLW) theory ware used in this study on the grouping effect on wave forces acting on a verticalbreakwater. The calculated variance of total wave pressure on the vertical breakwater was closer tothe measured value if the wave grouping effect was considered.     

REPRESENTATION OF STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF WAVE GROUPS FOR SEA PROCESSES WITH DOUBLE-PEAKED SPECTRA

A method using group-induced second-order long waves(GSLW) to represent statistical properties of wave groups with double-peaked spectra is put forward in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory. The GSLW is regarded as a weighted linear superimposition of the second-order long Wave induced by the low peak frequency section and that induced by the high peak frequency section. There is a parabolic relationship between the GSLW and the wave envelope. Then the probability density function and the distribution function of the GSLW amplitude are derived. Thus the formulas for the average time duration and the mean length of runs can be derived. Good agreement between theoretical results and measured values was achieved. as verified with the measured double-peaked spectra in different regions.     

STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF WAVE GROUPS DESCRIBED BY GROUP-INDUCED LONG WAVES

A new method using group-induced second-order long waves (GSLW) to describe wave groups is presented in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory by Longuet- Higgins and Steward (1964) . In the method , the parabolic relationship between GSLW and the wave envelope is first deduced , and then the distribution function of GSLW amplitude is derived . Thus, the formulae in terms of the moments of GSLW and short wave spectra for the average time duration and the mean length of runs of wave heights exceeding a certain level can be derived . A new groupiness factor equivalent to half the mean wave number in wave groups is defined by taking into account the widths of spectra of GSLW and short waves . Compared with theoretical results of others , ours are closer to measured wave data .