Estuary/ocean exchange and tidal mixing in a Gulf of Maine Estuary: A Lagrangian modeling study

A Lagrangian particle method embedded within a 2-D finite element code, is used to study the transport and ocean–estuary exchange processes in the well-mixed Great Bay Estuarine System in New Hampshire, USA. The 2-D finite element model, driven by residual, semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal constituents, includes the effects of wetting and drying of estuarine mud flats through the use of a porous medium transport module. The particle method includes tidal advection, plus a random walk model in the horizontal that simulates sub-grid scale turbulent transport processes. Our approach involves instantaneous, massive [O(500,000)] particle releases that enable the quantification of ocean–estuary and inter-bay exchanges in a Markovian framework. The effects of the release time, spring–neap cycle, riverine discharge and diffusion strength on the intra-estuary and estuary–ocean exchange are also investigated.The results show a rather dynamic interaction between the ocean and the estuary with a fraction of the exiting particles being caught up in the Gulf of Maine Coastal Current and swept away. Three somewhat different estimates of estuarine residence time are calculated to provide complementary views of estuary flushing. Maps of residence time versus release location uncover a strong spatial dependency of residence time within the estuary that has very important ramifications for local water quality. Simulations with and without the turbulent random walk show that the combined effect of advective shear and turbulent diffusion is very effective at spreading particles throughout the estuary relatively quickly, even at low (1 m²/s) diffusivity. The results presented here show that a first-order Markov Chain approach has applicability and a high potential for improving our understanding of the mixing processes in estuaries.     

Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire

Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s⁻¹. Current and sea level forced by the M₂M₄M₆ tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area.     

A case study of a modified gravity type cage and mooring system using numerical and physical models

A modified gravity-type cage, developed by SADCO Shelf Ltd., was examined using numerical and physical models to determine if the cage and mooring system is suitable for an exposed site south of the Isles of Shoals, NH. The 3000-m/sup 3/ SADCO Shelf Submersible Fish Cage has angled stays between the upper framework and the ballasted bottom rim (in addition to net) to resist the horizontal shear deformation. The mooring system consists of three legs-each made up of a taut vertical chain and an angled rope, both leading to deadweight anchors. Normalized response amplitudes (response amplitude operators) were found for motion response in heave, surge and pitch, and load response in the anchor and bridle lines, in regular (single frequency) waves. In addition, a stochastic approach was taken to determine the motion and load transfer functions in random waves using a spectrum representative of seas at the selected site. In general, the system motion had a highly damped response, with no resonant peaks within the wave excitation range of 0.05 to 0.45 Hz. The anchor line force response was at all frequencies below 5 kN per meter of wave amplitude. The physical model tests showed consistently more conservative (larger) results compared to those for the numerical model.     

Ridge development as revealed by sub-bottom profiles on the central New Jersey shelf

Closely-spaced 3.5 kHz seismic profiles were collected over the north-easterly trending ridge and swale system 50 km east-southeast of Atlantic City, New Jersey. They yield information on the Late Quaternary depositional history of the area, and on the origin of the ridge system. Four of the sub-bottom reflectors identified were sufficiently persistent to warrant investigation and interpretation. These reflectors, which have been cored, lithologically identified, and radiocarbon dated, are stratigraphically higher than the reflectors dealt with by the majority of previous studies. The upper three reflectors are definitely mid- and post-Wisconsin in age and present a record of the most recent glacial cycle. The upper three units associated with the observed reflectors appear to exert a pronounced influence on the bathymetry. The gently corrugated ridge system of Holocene sand is formed over the regionally flat-lying upper unit, an Early Holocene lagoonal silty clay. The characteristically flat, broad depressions of the area are floored by this lagoonal material. Locally, however, marine scour has cut through the silty clay into an underlying unit of unconsolidated fine Pleistocene sand. Several stages of trough development appear to be represented. After penetrating the lagoonal clay, troughs are initially narrow, but when incised through the sand into a lower, Pleistocene, silty-clay unit, the troughs become notably wider. As downcutting is inhibited by the lower clay, the upper clay is undercut as the trough widens in a fashion similar to a desert blowout.

The sub-bottom reflectors indicate that ridge development on the central shelf has involved aggradation as well as erosion. Some ridges seem to have grown by vertical and lateral accretion from small cores. The internal structure of other ridges suggests that they formed by the coalescence of several small ridges. Others appear to have undergone appreciable lateral migration.

The ridges appear to be in a state of continuing adjustment to the hydraulic regime of the deepening post-Pleistocene water column.     

Sand ridges on the inner Atlantic shelf of North America: Morphometric comparisons with Huthnance stability model

Sand ridge fields on the inner shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight are generally thought to have formed in response to northeasterly storm flows as the shoreface underwent erosional retreat with postglacial sea-level rise. However, the hydrodynamic mechanism is poorly unerstood. Coastal boundary models see the ridges as responses of the seafloor to distortions in the flow induced by the coastal boundary. Stability models propose that an irregular initial topography will evolve toward an ordered array of bedforms in response to repeated flow events. The two classes of models are not mutually exclusive, nor are members within each class mutually exclusive. Results of measurements of ridge spacing on the inner Atlantic shelf of North America agree with the predictions of stability models.     

Storm-built sand ridges on the Maryland inner shelf: a preliminary report

Several aspects of the Maryland ridge field are pertinent to the problem of ridge genesis in response to Holocene sea-level rise. There is a systematic morphologic change fromshoreface ridges throughnearshore ridges tooffshore ridges, which reflects the changing hydraulic regime. Grain size is 90° out of phase with topography, so that the coarsest sand lies between the axis of each trough and the adjacent seaward ridge crest, while the finest sand lies between each ridge crest and the axis of the adjacent seaward trough. Finally, analysis over a 43-year period on an outer ridge reveals a systematic pattern of landward flank erosion, seaward flank deposition, and seaward crest migration. These relationships support a model which explains the ridges as consequences of the up-current shift of maximum bottom shear stress with respect to the crests of initial bottom irregularities. The oblique orientation of the ridges with respect to the beach may be at least partly due to the more rapid migration rate of the ridges’ inshore ends.     

Shallow-marine sequences as the building blocks of stratigraphy: insights from numerical modelling

Two types of depositional sequences can be defined within the sequence stratigraphic framework: the parasequence and the high‐frequency sequence. Both sequences consist of stacked regressive and transgressive deposits. However, a parasequence forms under conditions of overall sea‐level rise, whereas a high‐frequency sequence forms as the sea level oscillates which results in typical forced regressive deposits during sea‐level fall. Both depositional sequences may develop over comparable temporal (10–100 kyr) and spatial (1–20 km wide and 1–40 m thick) scales. Numerical modelling is used to compare the architecture, preservation potential, internal volumes, bounding surfaces, condensed and expanded sections and facies assemblages of parasequences and high‐frequency sequences. Deposits originating from transgression are less pronounced than their regressive counterparts and consist of either preserved backbarrier deposits or shelf deposits. Shoreface deposits are not preserved during transgression. The second half of the paper evaluates in detail the preservation potential of backbarrier deposits and proposes a mechanism that explains the occurrence of both continuous and discontinuous barrier retreat in terms of varying rates of sea‐level rise and sediment supply. The key to this mechanism is the maximum washover capacity, which plays a part in both barrier shoreline retreat and backbarrier‐lagoonal shoreline retreat. If these two shorelines are not balanced, then the retreat of the coastal system as a whole is discontinuous and in time barrier overstep may take place.     

Bearing capacity of rock over mined cavities in Nottingham

A significant geohazard is created in Nottingham, UK, by hundreds of man-made caves cut in the weak sandstone beneath the city centre. Stability of the caves has been assessed by a single full-scale loading test, by numerical modelling with FLAC and by physical modelling in plaster. For typical caves 4 m wide, bearing capacity of the rock roof rises from 2 MPa where it is 1 m thick to 8 MPa where 3 m thick. Stability decreases over wider caves and where the loading pad edge is over the edge of the cave. Numerical modelling of a very wide cave revealed the failure mechanisms and also showed that an internal support wall increased roof bearing capacity by 50%. Local building regulations that require 3-5 m of rock cover over the sandstone caves appear to be conservative. In stronger rocks, including karstic limestone, a guideline that cover thickness exceeds 70% of the cave width appears to be appropriate.     

Basal sediment evacuation by subglacial meltwater: suspended sediment transport from Haut Glacier d'Arolla,Switzerland

Proglacial suspended sediment transport was monitored at Haut Glacier d'Arolla, Switzerland, during the 1998 melt season to investigate the mechanisms of basal sediment evacuation by subglacial meltwater. Sub‐seasonal changes in relationships between suspended sediment transport and discharge demonstrate that the structure and hydraulics of the subglacial drainage system critically influenced how basal sediment was accessed and entrained. Under hydraulically inefficient subglacial drainage at the start of the melt season, sediment availability was generally high but sediment transport increased relatively slowly with discharge. Later in the melt season, sediment transport increased more rapidly with discharge as subglacial meltwater became confined to a spatially limited network of channels following removal of the seasonal snowpack from the ablation area. Flow capacity is inferred to have increased more rapidly with discharge within subglacial channels because rapid changes in discharge during highly peaked diurnal runoff cycles are likely to have been accommodated largely by changes in flow velocity. Basal sediment availability declined during channelization but increased throughout the remainder of the monitored period, resulting in very efficient basal sediment evacuation over the peak of the melt season. Increased basal sediment availability during the summer appears to have been linked to high diurnal water pressure variation within subglacial channels inferred from the strong increase in flow velocity with discharge. Basal sediment availability therefore appears likely to have been increased by (1) enhanced local ice‐bed separation leading to extra‐channel flow excursions and[sol ]or (2) the deformation of basal sediment towards low‐pressure channels due to a strong diurnally reversing hydraulic gradient between channels and areas of hydraulically less‐efficient drainage. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.