Numerical Analysis of Wave Forces on Arbitrarily Shaped Multi-Pillars Over Varying Topography

The modified hybrid element method (MHEM) is utilized to predict and analyze wave forces on arbitrarily shaped multiple bodies. This method can be applied to waves of all water depths, i. e. shallow, intermediate, and deep waters, on slowly varying seabed. The MHEM employs the ICCG method to save CPU and storage, thus the computation of wave forces for large multi-body systems can be carried out on microcomputers. Numerical results of the present method are compared with experimental data and other solutions. It is shown that the MHEM provides more accurate solutions of the wave forces than other numerical methods do. Therefore, the methodology presented herein can be used in the design of coastal and ocean structures.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…     

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…     

珠江口滨海湿地退化现状、原因及保护对策

2007年和2008年秋季对珠江口滨海湿地进行了环境现状综合调查,结果表明,珠江口滨海湿地退化主要表现在4个方面:天然湿地面积减少、湿地生产力不断下降、湿地环境状况持续恶化和湿地景观破碎化。珠江口滨海湿地退化的原因主要为滩涂开发与围填海、污染物排放、养殖污染、海平面上升、过度捕捞、海砂开采和港口码头建设以及水土资源开发等因素。滨海湿地保护与利用对策主要有:制定有关滨海湿地保护的法律法规和湿地保护与利用规划;加强人才队伍建设和滨海湿地有关技术研究;建立滨海湿地动态监测体系;加大滨海湿地保护区建设的力度;加强宣传和教育。     

单点高频地波雷达资料估算潮能耗散的方法

使用嵊泗站所布设的地波雷达观测获取的径向流数据,以及嵊泗、芦潮港、岱山3个潮汐观测站水位资料,采用两点近似投影方法反演流场全矢量流速,并用T-Tide程序计算调和常数,分别计算O1、K1、M2、S2各分潮流速场及迟角场,并计算各点上的潮能通量及潮能耗散,得到嵊泗岛以西杭州湾口区域潮能耗散同地形存在良好对应关系,充分证明了采用地波雷达观测数据进行潮能耗散计算这一方法的可行性,供相关工作者作进一步研究和讨论.     

Estimates of global M_2 internal tide energy fluxes using TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data

TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data from October 1992 to June 2002 are used to calculate the global barotropic M2 tidal currents using long-term tidal harmonic analysis. The tides calculated agree well with ADCP data obtained from the South China Sea (SCS). The maximum tide velocities along the semi-major axis and semi-minor axis can be computed from the tidal ellipse. The global distribution of M2 internal tide vertical energy flux from the sea bottom is calculated based on a linear internal wave generation model. The global vertical energy flux of M2 internal tide is 0.96 TW, with 0.36 TW in the Pacific, 0.31 TW in the Atlantic and 0.29 TW in the Indian Ocean, obtained in this study. The total horizontal energy flux of M2 internal tide radiating into the open ocean from the lateral boundaries is 0.13 TW, with 0.06 TW in the Pacific, 0.04TW in the Atlantic, and 0.03 TW in the Indian Ocean. The result shows that the principal lunar semi-diurnal tide M2 provides enough energy to maintain the large-scale thermohaline circulation of the ocean.     

The Coastal Zone Loess of the Liaodong Peninsula, Liaoning Province

This Paper discusses the origin of the Coastal Zone Loess on the Liaodong Peninsula, Liaoning Province.The loess is composed mainly of proximal materials transported by low-altitude air flow and less commonly ofinland distal materials carried by high-altitude air flow. The main provenance is the Liaodong Bay. When thesea level declined during glacial period, the bottoms of the Liaodong Bay and Bohai Sea emerged, wheredesertization occurred. As a result, submarine sediments were transported by strong northwesterly winds to theeastern coastal zone of the peninsula and deposited there. These materials mixed with the windblown dust car-ried by atmospheric circulation from the interior of the continent, forming the loess.     

冲绳海槽宫古段中央地堑的形态与分布

采用中国科学院海洋研究所“科学1号”调查船及国家海洋局“向阳红9号”调查船最近几年在冲绳海槽宫古段进行海底地形及反射地震调查所取得的数据,首次详细展示了冲绳海槽宫古段南北长约200km区域内中央地堑的形态及空间展布特征。本文给出的成果大大加深了关于冲绳海槽中央地堑各种变化的认识。指出,按照形态,中央地堑分为U型、V型和半地堑三种。其中大部分中央地堑为U型地堑。地堑的深度40～250m,宽度6～14km,长度17～33km。冲绳海槽宫古段的最大水深为2244.4m,位于中央地堑城阳段北端底部靠东的一侧(125°19.3′E,25°49.8′N)。本研究区的中央地堑可分为断续的9段,从东北向西南大致呈右旋雁行排列。但黄岛段相对于崂山段,城阳段相对于莱西段,李仓段相对于城阳段又稍微向西偏出,呈现为左旋雁行排列。地堑的走向一般为N60°E左右,相对于冲绳海槽的走向更偏向于东西方向,偏角在15°左右。各段中央地堑是被NW向断裂错开的。这些断裂在海底表现为明显的海底断崖地貌和陡沟地貌,在地震剖面上表现为明显的地层错位,其错位的幅度往往老地层比新地层要大。根据地震剖面分析,这些NW向的断裂应该是走滑性质的。本文展示的中央地堑在形态上和空间展布形式上都和扩张洋脊类似。莱西段和城阳段中央地堑之间重叠地堑,在形式上也类似于扩张洋脊的重叠扩张中心。从地堑深度较浅并发育重叠地堑来分析,冲绳海槽的扩张速率应当介于慢速扩张和中速扩张之间。本研究区莱西段、即墨段和平度段海底地形相对较高,中央地堑深度变浅,并发育重叠中央地堑,应该相当于快速扩张大洋中脊的轴高,可能是正在孕育岩浆活动的位置。目前我们所观测到的中央地堑的错断和有规律的排列说明海槽的主体演化过程已经在拉张盆地和断陷盆地的基础上上升到一个更高的阶段。本文根据中央地堑的展布形式、重叠中央地堑,及其两侧中央地堑中的海底山推测此区域海底扩张可能正在进行。