Surface wave dynamics off Mumbai coast,north-eastern Arabian Sea

Ocean Dynamics - Directional wave data collected in the coastal area at 10-m water depth for a period of 1 year is used to describe the surface wave dynamics off Mumbai coast. Partitioning...     

Hindcast of breaking waves and its impact at an island sheltered coast,Karwar

Variability in the characteristics of depth-induced wave breakers along a non-uniform coastal topography and its impact on the morpho-sedimentary processes is examined at the island sheltered wave-dominated micro-tidal coast, Karwar, west coast of India. Waves are simulated using the coupled wind wave model, SWAN nested in WAVEWATCH III, forced by the reanalysis winds from different sources (NCEP/NCAR, ECMWF, and NCEP/CFSR). Impact of the wave breakers is evaluated through mean longshore current and sediment transport for various wave energy conditions across different coastal morphology. Study revealed that the NCEP/CFSR wind is comparatively reasonable in simulation of nearshore waves using the SWAN model nested by 2D wave spectra generated from WAVEWATCH III. The Galvin formula for estimating mean longshore current using the crest wave period and the Kamphuis approximation for longshore sediment transport is observed realistically at the sheltered coastal environment while the coast interacts with spilling and plunging breakers.     

Near shore waves,long-shore currents and sediment transport along micro-tidal beaches,central west coast of India

Coastlines are undergoing constant geomorphologic changes with respect to the incident wave climate.Based on waves measured at 9 m water depth,simulation of near shore wave transformation is done using REFDIF-1numerical model and the near shore breaker parameters are estimated at two micro-tidal beaches along central west coast of India.Model results are validated with measured values.From the breaker parameters,long-shore current and long-shore sediment transport rates（LSTR） are computed by using semi-empirical equations.Estimated long-shore current and LSTR are showing dramatic variations with respect to seasons.Predominant direction of LSTR is observed towards north since the approach waves are from south-west direction during pre-monsoon and post monsoon.During monsoon season,waves are from west south-west and resulted in southerly transport.The estimated annual net and gross LSTR by Cambridge Environmental Research Consultants（CERC） at two locations are in the same order whereas LSTR estimated by Walton ＆ Bruno and Kamphuis equations are showing different estimations because of difference in surf-zone width and foreshore slope between the two locations.For micro-tidal beaches with length less than 6 km,Kamphuis equation is giving agreeable estimation of LSTR.Sensitivity analysis of LSTR estimate shows that coastal inclination is the prominent factor in determining LSTR than incident wave angle.     

Quantitative estimation of sediment erosion and accretion processes in a micro-tidal coast

Spatio-temporal cross-shore profiles and textural characteristics are the key parameters for understanding dynamics of the inter-tidal sedimentary environment.This study describes short-term dynamics of the inter-tidal sedimentary environment at beaches along the micro-tidal coast.Further a correlation is estimated in cross-shore morphodynamics and textural characteristics of surface sediments.The sedimentary environment is examined for a complete annual cycle using monthly collected cross-shore profiles and sediment samples.The Devbag beach（northern side） and Ravindranath Tagore beach（southern side） at the Kali river mouth,Karwar,west coast of India are characterized from extremely gentle to average slope,and broadly composed of unimodal sands.The sedimentary environment is significantly composed of textures having fine to medium sand,well to moderately sorted,fine to coarse skewed,and platykurtic to leptokurtic in nature.During the annual cycle a reversal pattern is observed between the two adjacent beaches,where a slower rate of sediment accretion is observed at Devbag beach while Ravindranath Tagore beach exhibited erosion.The beach dynamics along with the propagation of south-west（SW） and south-west-west（SWW） waves towards the coast significantly exhibit a dominance of northward sediment transport with the existence of a northerly alongshore current.In addition,the study reveals that an eroded beach may not be significantly identified composed of coarse grains.The poor correlation in morpho-sedimentary characteristics reveals the prediction of grain characteristics based on beach profile and vice-versa is unrealistic.