Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

热带太平洋地区风场异常和与El Nio有关的年际变化

利用1964~1993年NCEP/NCAR再分析风应力资料和中国科学院大气物理研究所发展的14层热带太平洋环流模式(OGCM),对热带太平洋与El Ni~no有关的年际变化进行了研究。首先,分析了西太平洋暖池次表层海温异常(SOTA)与Ni~no 3区海表温度异常(SSTA)的年际变化关系,发现在El Ni~no事件之前,暖池的次表层海温都有明显正异常出现,它的东传导致了El Ni~no的发生,并且SOTA的传播随纬度变化,沿赤道东传,在赤道外西传。然后,选取了20世纪70年代和80年代两次最强的El Ni~no事件讨论了引起这种机制的可能原因———西风异常的作用。最后,对1964~1993所有的El Ni~no年的风场、次表层海温和海表温度的异常进行了综合分析。     

热带太平洋地区风场异常和与El Ni(~n)o有关的年际变化

利用1964～1993年NCEP/NCAR再分析风应力资料和中国科学院大气物理研究所发展的14层热带太平洋环流模式(OGCM),对热带太平洋与El Ni(~n)o有关的年际变化进行了研究.首先,分析了西太平洋暖池次表层海温异常(SOTA)与Ni(~n)o 3区海表温度异常(SSTA)的年际变化关系,发现在El Ni(~n)o事件之前,暖池的次表层海温都有明显正异常出现,它的东传导致了El Ni(~n)o的发生,并且SOTA的传播随纬度变化,沿赤道东传,在赤道外西传.然后,选取了20世纪70年代和80年代两次最强的El Ni(~n)o事件讨论了引起这种机制的可能原因--西风异常的作用.最后,对1964～1993所有的El Ni(~n)o年的风场、次表层海温和海表温度的异常进行了综合分析.     

Aerosol Type Identification Using PARASOL Multichannel Polarized Data

PARASOL （Polarization ＆ Anisotropy of Reflectances for Atmospheric Sciences coupled with Ob- servations from a Lidar） multi-channel and mul- ti-directional polarized data for different aerosol types were compared. The PARASOL polarized radiance data at 490 nm, 670 nm, and 865 nm increased with aerosol optical thickness （AOT） for fine-mode aerosols; however, the polarized radiances at 490 nm and 670 nm decreased as AOT increased for coarse dust aerosols. Thus, the vari- ation of the polarized radiance with AOT can be used to identify fine or coarse particle-dominated aerosols. Polar- ized radiances at three wavelengths for fine- and coarse-mode aerosols were analyzed and fitted by linear regression. The slope of the line for 670 nm and 490 nm wavelength pairs is less than 0.35 for dust aerosols. However, the value for fine-mode aerosols is greater than 0.60. The Support Vector Machine method （SVM） based on 12 vector features was used to discriminate clear sky, coarse dust aerosols, fine-mode aerosols, and cloud. Two cases were given and validated by AErosol RObotic NETwork （AERONET） measurements, MODIS （Mod- erate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer） FMF （Fine Mode Fraction at 550 nm） images, PARASOL RGB （Red Green Blue） images, and CALIOP （Cloud-Aerosol Lidar with Orthogonal Polarization） VFM （Vertical Feature Mask） data.     

Fog Detection over China’s Adjacent Sea Area by using the MTSAT Geostationary Satellite Data

A fog threshold method for the detection of sea fog from Multi-function Transport Satellite (MTSAT1R) infrared (IR) channel data is presented.This method uses principle component analysis (PCA),texture analysis,and threshold detection to extract sea fog information.A heavy sea fog episode that occurred over China’s adjacent sea area during 7 8 April 2008 was detected,indicating that the fog threshold method can effectively detect sea fog areas nearly 24 hours a day.MTSAT-1R data from March 2006,June 2007,and April 2008 were processed using the fog threshold method,and sea fog coverage information was compared with the meteorological observation report data from ships.The hit rate,miss rate,and false alarm rate of sea fog detection were 66.1%,27.3%,and 33.9%,respectively.The results show that the fog threshold method can detect the formation,evolution,and dissipation of sea fog events over period of time and that the method has superior temporal and spatial resolution relative to conventional ship observations.In addition,through MTSAT-1R data processing and a statistical analysis of sea fog coverage information for the period from 2006 to 2009,the monthly mean sea fog day frequency,spatial distribution and seasonal variation characteristics of sea fog over China’s adjacent sea area were obtained.     

南海北部神狐海域天然气水合物成藏模式研究

南海北部陆坡神狐海域是我国海洋天然气水合物勘探开发研究的重点靶区,独特的水合物成藏特征,难以利用当前观测到的沉积速率和流体流动条件对其成藏机理进行解释和量化说明,对其形成演化模式和控制因素尚不明确.本文构建了海洋天然气水合物形成演化过程的动力学模型,模型的主控参量为海底沉积速率和水流速率,以此计算了神狐海域天然气水合物聚集演化过程,并与饱和度的盐度测试值进行对比.最后,在研究神狐海域地质构造活动和水合物成藏动力学基础上建立了神狐天然气水合物形成演化模式.认为神狐海域当前的天然气水合物是在上新世末—更新世早期断裂体系水合物基础上继承演化而来的,神狐海域天然气水合物形成演化具有典型的二元模式.第一阶段水合物形成发生在距今1.5 Ma之前构造活动形成的断裂体系中,高达50 m/ka的孔隙水流动携带了大量的甲烷进入水合物稳定带,导致了水合物的快速生成,在4万年内形成了饱和度达20%的甲烷水合物;第二阶段发生在1.5 Ma以来,泥质粉砂沉积使沉积体渗透率骤减,0.7 m/ka的低速率水流使甲烷供给不足,在海底浅层新沉积体中无法生成水合物,仅在水合物稳定带底部有缓慢的水合物继承增长,并因此形成了神狐海域当前观测到的水合物产出特征,而且水合物资源量仍在减少.     

青藏块体8级左右地震前中强地震 活动图像的相似性演化

2008年5月12日,四川汶川发生8.0级特大地震.汶川地震前,青藏块体曾出现与2001年11月昆仑山口西8.1级特大地震前相似的大规模中强地震活动图像.为了探讨8级左右地震前的中强地震活动规律,本文研究了1900年以来中国大陆地区8级左右地震前中强地震的时空分布特征,认为①青藏块体8级左右地震前一般会出现中强地震活动图像的两阶段演化,第一阶段主要表现为中强地震沿印度板块与青藏块体接触带附近分布、青藏块体内部平静,第二阶段主要表现为中强地震向青藏块体内部扩展,形成大规模中强地震条带,未来主震一般发生在大规模中强地震主条带或者多组条带的交汇处.②该演化规律可能反映了印度板块作用于欧亚板块(尤其是青藏块体)产生的大区域地壳运动与构造应力场的动态变化过程,对预测青藏块体8级左右地震(尤其是8级以上特大地震)有一定意义,对预测新疆块体8级左右地震有参考价值,但尚不适用于中国大陆东部地区.③从更大范围考察中强地震活动图像的演化,有可能发现大地震前的场兆信息,对分析、预测未来的8级左右地震是一个有意义而且可行的方向.本文还对汶川地震的孕震过程和大规模中强地震条带的形成机理作了初步的探讨.     

一个基于“部分通量订正”的热带太平洋和全球大气耦合模式及它的性能检验

基于“部分通量订正”同步耦合方案，将中国科学院大气物理研究所发展的九层大气环流格点模式与十四层热带太平洋环流模式耦合并成功积分40年。结果表明，模式没有明显的“气候漂移”现象，同时模式能模拟出与未耦合的海气模式接近的气候平均态及其季节变化，及与观测接近的年际气候变率。这种年际变率在热带太平洋地区表现为类似于ENSO事件的时空分布特征。     

COSMIC数据验证AMSU平流层低层观测的初步分析结果

基于Global Positioning System (GPS)掩星数据在平流层具有较高准确性、稳定性的优势,本文尝试用新一代GPS掩星观测——the Constellation Observing System for Meteorology, Ionosphere, and Climate (COSMIC)资料验证不同卫星平台上先进的微波探测仪（AMSU）的平流层观测结果.通过COSMIC大气温度廓线与AMSU辐射传输模式结合,得到模拟亮温,然后与AMSU平流层观测进行匹配比较.分析表明GPS掩星数据能够作为一个相对独立的参量检验NOAA15、16、18卫星平台内部的偏差.通过一年数据的比较验证,初步显示不同卫星平台的AMSU观测亮温在平流层低层都偏低,并且NOAA18平台的亮温偏低程度明显大于NOAA15、16.AMSU亮温偏差在极地冬季较为显著,尤其南极地区NOAA18的偏差幅度达到1.8 K.结合24小时内AMSU观测亮温偏差变化及其样本分布特征,可以看到明显的太阳辐射差异可能是导致AMSU观测亮温在极地偏差显著的主要原因.     

Wave reflection from vertical breakwater with porous structure

This paper presents numerical solutions for the wave reflection from submerged porous structures in front of the impermeable vertical breakwater. A new time-dependent mild-slope equation involves the parameters of the porous medium including the porosity, the friction factor and the inertia coefficient, etc. is derived for solving the boundary value problem. A comprehensive comparison between the present model and the existing analytical solution for the case of simple rectangular geometries of the submerged structure is performed first. Then, more complicated cases such as the inclined and trapezoidal submerged porous structures in front of the vertical breakwater with sloping bottom are considered. This study also examines the effects of the permeable properties and the geometric configurations of the porous structure to the wave reflection. It is found that the submerged porous structure with trapezoidal shape has more efficiency to reduce the wave reflection than that of triangular shape. The numerical results show that the minimum wave reflection is occurred when the breakwater is located at the intermediate water depth.