Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

Computation of Viscous Uniform and Shear Flow over A Circular Cylinder by A Finite Element Method

The incompressible viscous uniform and shear flow past a circular cylinder is studied. The two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite element method. The governing equations are discretized by a weighted residual method in space. The stable three-step scheme is applied to the momentum equations in the time integration. The numerical model is firstly applied to the computation of the lid-driven cavity flow for its validation. The computed results agree well with the measured data and other numerical results. Then, it is used to simulate the viscous uniform and shear flow over a circular cylinder for Reynolds numbers from lO0 to lO00. The transient time interval before the vortex shedding occurs is shortened considerably by introduction of artificial perturbation. The computed Strouhal number, drag and lift coefficients agree well with the experimental data. The computation shows that the finite element model can be successfully applied to the viscous flow problem.     

Sources and hydrothermal alteration of organic matter in Quaternary sediments: A synthesis of studies from the Central Gulf of California

Deep sea drilling in the Central Gulf of California, a young and active spreading centre, shows that the high heat flow typical of these regions causes extensive alteration of sediment organic matter, especially near sills and above magma chambers where hydrothermal activity is concentrated. Even on the nearby passive margin, where there are no sills, heat flow is moderately high and hydrocarbon generation has begun in immature sequences. Migrating light hydrocarbons are detected especially where hydrothermal activity is concentrated. Thermogenic methane is more widespread, though not in the passive margin bordering the spreading centre. Despite the incidence of hydrocarbon generation and migration, the amounts of hydrocarbons involved are relatively small and apparently do not lead to commercially significant accumulations of petroleum.The organic matter in these sediments is mostly marine because the Gulf of California generally has low runoff from land and highly productive surface waters. Turbidites rich in terrigenous organic material are locally abundant in the mainly pelagic section in the Guaymas Basin. The highest concentrations of organic matter are found in laminated diatomites deposited on the Guaymas passive margin within the oxygen minimum zone.     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

0516号热带风暴过程分析

利用气象海洋数据资料和卫星遥感图片,分析研究了2005年第16号热带气旋"韦森特"(VICENTE)的特征,从最先的初始扰动到自身环流的分裂发展重组过程,以至当时周围相对应的大气环流,发现该热带气旋活动过程具有很多特性。对其移动过程进行的综合分析表明,只要存在合适距离等一定有利的条件,弱的两个涡旋之间完全可以发生强的作用力,高空辐散场的抽气作用对气旋的发展有极好的作用,所得的结论可对今后的预报提供一些启示和参考。     

一种带自由面的三维船体贴体网络的数值生成

本文提出了一个生成自由面的三维船体贴体网格的数值方法。文中以静水面以上的船体型线作为描述非定常自由面的计算网格域，进一步完善了我们以往开发的无法考虑兴波与静水面以上的船体型线相互作用对船舶粘性流动影响的网格生成方法。静水面以上的初始自由面网格分别沿船面法线η及切线ζ方向的曲线长的指数进行分布，即可极方便地调节自由面在船面及静水面附近的网格间距，也保证了在数值离散三维Ｐｏｉｓｓｏｎ方程时具有相当好的收敛性。这种方法的特点是计算量相当小，尤其能极方便地控制网格在船面簿粘性层中及静水面附近的分布。以Ｓｅｒｉｅｓ６０船模作为计算算例，带自由面的网格分布是相当满意的     

Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

长江口南支潮流的一个数值模拟

为了能够精确地拟合天然水域不规则的水陆边界,并能保持有限差分数值计算在矩形网格中进行,本文利用Thompson的数值网格生成技术,在长江口南支七丫口至横沙河段设计了一个椭圆型边界拟合坐标系,并在这个坐标系下建立了平面二维潮流数学模型。通过数值求解此数学模型,实现了计算区域内现状潮流的一个数值模拟,模拟结果表明,模式的设计是成功的。     

Harmonic generation past a submerged porous step

Experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the differences between harmonic evolution of monochromatic waves as they propagate over a submerged impermeable or porous step under non-breaking conditions. Results are used as a preliminary analysis to establish some engineering design criteria on harmonic generation on submerged porous structures. The root-mean-squared wave height evolution is also studied and compared to linear models as a first approximation. It is shown that porous structure increases the effective relative depth and decreases the relative wave height, resulting in a lower Ursell number and a lower chance to generate harmonics. The effective water depth over a step as defined in the paper, provides information to evaluate the potential harmonic generation.