Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

Wave interaction with a submarine pipeline in clayey soil due to random waves

The wave pressure and uplift force due to random waves on a submarine pipeline (resting on bed, partially buried and fully buried) in clayey soil are measured. The influence of various parameters viz., wave period, wave height, water depth, burial depth and consistency index of the soil on wave pressures around and uplift force on the submarine pipeline was investigated. The wave pressures were measured at three locations around the submarine pipeline (each at 120° to the adjacent one). It is found that the wave pressure and uplift force spectrum at high consistency index of the soil is smaller compared to that of low consistency index. Just burying the pipeline (e/D=1.0) in clayey soil reduces the uplift force to less than 60% of the force experienced by a pipeline resting on the seabed (e/D=0.0) for I_c=0.33.     

Hammerstein型非线性积分方程解的存在性

该文采用化为积分方程组的方法 ,利用锥上不动点指数计算 ,在不要求非线性项 f (x,u)非负的情况下 ,证明 Hammerstein型非线性积分方程 φ(x) =∫Gκ(x,y) f (y,φ(y) ) dy非平凡解和多解存在性的一些新的结果。此结果可用来证明非线性常微分方程两点边值问题解的存在性。     

Microhabitat preferences and depth distribution of combtooth blennies (Blenniidae) in the Gulf of Trieste (North Adriatic Sea)

The microhabitat preferences and depth distribution of blenniid species (Blenniidae) in the Gulf of Trieste (North Adriatic Sea) were surveyed using the all‐occurrence sampling method, a non‐destructive visual census method, aided by SCUBA diving. Fourteen species were identified during the entire survey. Four species showed to be indiscriminate in their microhabitat choice while 10 species were classified as infrequent in the surveyed coastal area. A statistically significant correlation was found between the blenniid assemblage and nine microhabitat variables. The blenniid assemblage was divided in two main groups, by the use of canonical correspondence analysis, electivity index, and the depth distribution analysis. The first group comprises species that dwell in surface waters and show a high positive correlation with boulders, the presence of Mytilus galloprovincialis, cirripeds and empty holes bored by Lithophaga lithophaga. The second group includes species that mostly inhabit deeper waters and show a high positive correlation with rocks covered by precoralligenous bioformations.     

Acoustic plane-wave scattering from a rough surface over a random fluid medium

Acoustic plane-wave scattering from a rough surface overlying a fluid half-space with a sound-speed distribution subject to a small random variation is considered. Under the assumption that the surface roughness and medium randomness are statistically independent, the scattered field may be derived by first solving for the mean field in the medium, and then incorporating with boundary-perturbation method to obtain the total mean field and the power spectral density of the scattered field. The employed algorithm is compatible to the analysis available in the existing literature so that the formulations are conveniently integrated. The results for the power spectral density have shown that the effects of medium inhomogeneities on the rough surface scattering are limited in a spectral regime where the scattered components have shallow grazing angles. The distribution of the power spectral density over the space is primarily governed by the power spectrum and correlation lengths of the rough surface.     

空间扰动引力的谱分析

基于重力场的频谱理论，给出了扰动引力在全球平均意义下的功率谱表达式，揭示了扰动引力的传播特性。通过数值试验，给出了扰动引力随高度变化规律，并分析了不同高度上，扰动引力恢复重力场的最高阶数及相应分辨率。从理论上分析了航空重力测量探测重力场中高频信息的能力，对制定飞行方案有一定参考价值。     

珠江河口西南风强迫下潮流场的数值模拟

采用Backhaus三维斜压模型模拟了均匀西南风场对珠江口近岸海域的影响，并与无风情况作了对比；通过对珠江河口盐度场及风生环流的分析比较，结果表明，模型较为真实地再现了夏季珠江河口的水动力学特性。     

南沙群岛海域水体漫衰减系数Kd(490)的特性研究

对南沙群岛海区水体Kd(490）的特性进行了深入分析和探讨,研究结果表明：Kd（490）的垂直分布与同步测量的海水叶绿素a浓度的垂直分布有很强的相关性;Kd（490）的垂直分布反映出该区域海水存在较强的分层现象,研究中还发现上行辐亮度漫衰减系数KL（490）与Kd（490）垂直变化趋势相当一致,但是以二者达到最大值的深度为界,上层水体的KL（490）值稍大于Kd(490）值,在这一深度以下则相反。     

Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

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鲫鱼(Carassius auratus)在微冻保鲜过程中的质量变化

该文研究鲫鱼 ( Carassius auratus)在微冻 ( - 3℃ )保鲜过程中的质量变化规律。以感官评价、细菌总数、T- VBN值、p H值、ATPase活性、K值等作为质量指标。实验结果表明 ,微冻可以明显抑制细菌总数的增长 ,维持较低的 T- VBN和 K值。但是 ,微冻条件下鲫鱼的 ATPase活性下降速度较快