A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

Meiobenthic Organisms as Indicators of Mixing Processes in the Baltic Surface Sediments*

Abstract. Two sediment cores were collected in the southern Baltic Sea and sliced into 1.0cm-thick layers. Sediments of each layer were analysed for activities of ²¹⁰Pb, ¹³⁷Cs, ¹³⁴Cs and for the density of meiobenthic organisms (meiofauna). Zones with the rapid mixing occur in the uppermost layers (0–3 cm) of the cores based on ^I34Cs profiles. The extent and density of meiofauna confirmed the rapid mixing and revealed layers with slow mixing (4–8 cm). Sedimentation rates were derived from ²¹⁰Pb profiles below the mixing zones (1.21 and 1.72 mm a-^I) and were confumed by ¹³⁷Cs distribution. Of twenty-one major meiofauna taxa commonly found in the Baltic sediments, three were present in the cores.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

太平洋中部表层沉积物镁铝含量比的变化

本文根据中、日调查资料,研究了太平洋中部表层沉积物镁铝含量比的变化,并探讨其影响因素。     

厦门潮间带表层沉积物天然放射系不平衡研究

用HPGeγ谱仪测定了厦门潮间带表层沉积物中的放射性核素,得到11种核素238U2、34Th2、26Ra2、22Rn2、10Pb2、28Ra2、28Ac2、28Th2、24Ra2、12Pb、40K的平均比活度分别为:40.2、82.7、32.4、28.9、94.2、69.3、57.1、71.6、64.0、71.4、692Bq/kg.结果表明潮间带沉积物中天然放射系不平衡,其中234Th相对于238U2、10Pb相对于226Ra过剩,222Rn相对于226Ra2、28Ac相对于228Ra2、24Ra相对于228Th亏损.     

Dinoflagellate cysts in recent marine sediment from Guangxi, China

Total of 33 species of dinoflagellate cysts were discovered from surface sediment in the searegion of Guangxi, among them 12 cyst types (Diplopsalopsis sp.1, D. sp. 2, D. sp. 3, Cochlodinium sp., Protoperidinium sp. 1, P. sp. 2, P. compressum , Scrippsiella sp. 1, S. sp. 2, Alexandrium sp. 1, A. sp. 2, A. sp. 3) were first reported from the South China Sea. And one cyst type (Cochlodinium sp.) was first reported in the world. Scrippsiella trochoidea is the dominant species in this area, accounting for 45% of all the cysts. There are 2 cysts of toxic dinoflagellate (Alexandrium tamarensis and Gymnodinium catenatum). But there is no relationship between cyst number and grain size distribution.     

厦门海域水体中有机锡的存在形态与含量分布

利用固相萃取-气相色谱-火焰光度检测(SPE-GC-FPD)对厦门海域表、底层海水中的有机锡化合物进行了分析检测。其中表层海水中检出的有机锡化合物以二丁基锡(DBT)为主,底层海水中以三丁基锡(TBT)为主,且TBT的浓度显著高于表层水。表层海水中总有机锡浓度在129.1—4 826.8 ng(Sn).L-1之间,底层海水则分布在321.6—1 954.5ng(Sn).L-1之间。结果显示,厦门港内及同安湾附近海域水体中的有机锡浓度远高于九龙江口及厦门西南海域,这与厦门海域船舶活动和网箱养殖密切相关。通过对鼓浪屿站点表层海水中有机锡化合物15 h的连续监测,推测光照对水体中有机锡的降解影响显著。     

Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.     

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.