长江口区风浪要素计算的探讨

本文以长江口区波浪实测资料为依据，对目前国内外常用的风浪要素计算方法进行了比较分析，认为就目前资料条件下，最适用于长江口区的、能满足工程设计等要求的风浪要素计算方法为莆田试验站方法（莆田公式）。     

A Preliminary Study of Shear Wave in Seafloor Surface Sediments

This article preliminarily reports and analyses the transmission characteristics and behaviors of shear wave in the offshore seafloor surface sediments in China, discusses the relationships between the physical and mechanical features of the shear wave and the compression wave, and compares the testing results with that of Hamilton and Chen et al. The result shows that the shear wave can be tested if the seafloor surface sediment has tangent modulus. The shear wave velocity ranges from 50-600 m/s and the measuring frequency from 50-200 kHz. The sound velocity rate of shear wave and compression wave can be used to appraise the stress-strain feature of seafloor surface sediments. This study provides a basis for further describing and appraising the seafloor sedimentary acoustic-mechanical feature and building a geological-acoustic model on China's offshore sea area.     

Wave Defending Effects of V-Type Bottom-Mounted Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed for the study of the wave defending effects of the V-type bottom-mounted breakwater. The breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, impermeable and vertically located in water of constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into three sub-regions by an imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions. By satisfying the corresponding boundary conditions and matching conditions in and between sub-regions, a set of hnear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coetfficients for the eigenfunction expansions for each sub-region. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of an isolated breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The results show that the V-type bottommounted breakwater is generally effective in defending against waves. In general, the wave height in the protected area is about 20-50 percent of the incident wave height.     

风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪变形

为确定适用黄河三角洲的波动理论，对黄河三角洲风暴期间及前后波浪连续观测资料进行了处理，将其投在komar波浪理论分区图中后，分析了风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪的波形特征，发现站位所在地适合的波浪理论主要为艾里波和斯托克斯波，风暴期间波浪变形，还存在少量超过极限波陡线的波浪，通过比较常见的极限波陡线，看出Miche曲线比较适合该研究区。     

Change of multifractal thermal characteristics in the western Philippine sea upper layer during internal wave-soliton propagation

The upper layer (above 140 m depth) temperature in the western Philippine Sea near Taiwan was sampled using a coastal monitoring buoy (CMB) with 15 attached thermistors during July 28–August 7, 2005. The data were collected every 10 min at 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, and 20 m using the CMB sensors, and every 15 sec at 15 different depths between 25 m and 140 m. Internal waves and solitons were identified from the time-depth plot of the temperature field. Without the internal waves and solitons, the power spectra, structure functions, and singular measures (representing the intermittency) of temperature field satisfy the power law with multi-scale characteristics at all depths. The internal waves do not change the basic characteristics of the multifractal structure. However, the internal solitons change the power exponent of the power spectra drastically, especially in the low wave number domain; they also break down the power law of the structure function and increase the intermittency parameter. The physical mechanisms causing these different effects need to be explored further.     

Applied hydrodynamic wave-resistance computation by Fourier transform

An applied Fourier transform computation for the hydrodynamic wave-resistance coefficient is shown, oriented to potential flows with a free surface and infinity depth. The presence of a ship-like body is simulated by its equivalent pressure disturbance imposed on the un-perturbed free surface, where a linearized free surface condition is used. The wave-resistance coefficient is obtained from the wave-height downstream. Two examples with closed solutions are considered: a submerged dipole, as a test-case, and a parabolic pressure distribution of compact support. In the three dimensional case, a dispersion relation is included which is a key resource for an inexpensive computation of the wave pattern far downstream like fifteen ship-lengths.     

Comparison among four kinds of data of sea surface wind stress in the South China Sea

By using remote sensing (ERS) data, FSU data, COADS data and Hellerman & Rosen-stein objective analysis data to analyze the sea surface wind stress in the South China Sea, it is found that the remote sensing data have higher resolution and more reasonable values. Therefore we suggest that remote sensing data be chosen in the study of climatological features of sea surface wind stress and its seasonal variability in the South China Sea, especially in the study of small and middle scale eddies.     

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。     

珠江口水域微表层中的痕量金属

采用自制滚筒式自动采样器采样，研究了珠江口水域微表层中Ｆｅ，Ｍｎ，Ｃｕ，Ｐｂ，Ｚｎ，Ｃｄ的含量、分布变化及富集状况。并通过颗粒痕量金属／颗粒Ｆｅ比值计算，探讨了痕量金属的来源。结果表明：Ｃｕ，Ｐｂ，Ｚｎ，Ｃｄ在微表层的平均富集系数分别为２．３，１．４，３．０和１．９。颗粒态Ｆｅ，Ｍｎ的平均富集系数为１．１和０．９。各种金属有明显的季节和空间变化，有各种不同的来源。