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21.
Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong
Professor Hohai University Nanjing
Engineer The Investigation Design Institute Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)
In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches. 相似文献
22.
本文以南麂海洋站1983~1990年风、浪的实测资料为依据,建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明,曲线回归显著,计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏NNE向和偏SSW向计算波高随风速增大的快慢,同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。 相似文献
23.
本文用能谱方法分析了黄海的海表面水温(SST)场的准周期变化。由分析结果清楚地看出,SST具有高频准周期变化:黄海北部以2.6—3.2,1.4—1.7,3.6—3.8和6.7个月的准周期为主;3.3—3.6,5,1.3—2.3及6.7个月在黄海南部占优势。同时,两个海域都有6.7和3.3年的明显的准周期变化。 相似文献
24.
A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient. 相似文献
25.
26.
27.
Xu Shikai Wang Hongchuan Hong Guangwen
Engineer Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing .
Professor Research Institute of Coastal Ocean Engineering Hohai University Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)
To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples. 相似文献
28.
Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions. 相似文献
29.
Konstantin V. Lebedev Max Yaremchuk Humio Mitsudera Iwao Nakano Gang Yuan 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(6):751-763
A finite-difference quasigeostrophic (QG) model of an open ocean region has been employed to produce a dynamically constrained
synthesis of acoustic tomography and satellite altimetry data with in situ observations. The assimilation algorithm is based upon the 4D variational data interpolation scheme controlled by the model's
initial and boundary conditions. The data sets analyzed include direct and differential travel times measured at the array
of five acoustic transceivers deployed by JAMSTEC in the region of the Kuroshio Extension in 1997, Topex/Poseidon altimetry,
CTD soundings, and ADCP velocity profiles. The region monitored is located within the area 27.5°–36.5°N, 143°–155°. The results
of assimilation show that mesoscale variability can be effectively reconstructed by five transceivers measuring direct and
reciprocal travel times supported by relatively sparse in situ measurements. The misfits between model and data lie within the observational error bars for all the data types used in assimilation.
We have compared the results of assimilation with the statistical inversion of travel time data and analyzed energy balances
of the optimized model solution. Energy exchange between the depth-averaged and shear components of the observed currents
reveals a weak decay of the barotropic mode at the rate of 0.2 ± 0.7⋅10−5 cm2/s3 due to topographic interaction. Mean currents in the region are unstable with an estimate of the available potential energy
flux from the mean current to the eddies of 4.7 ± 2.3⋅10−5 cm2/s3. Kinetic energy transition has the same sign and is estimated as 2.8 ± 2.5⋅10−5 cm2/s3. Potential enstrophy is transferred to the mesoscale at a rate of 5.5 ± 2.7⋅10−18 s−3. These figures provide observational evidence of the properties of free geostrophic turbulence which were predicted by theory
and observed in numerical experiments.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
30.
根据作者导得的AfKdV方程,理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻,能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时,本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题,从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。 相似文献