The effect of bedform dynamics on computing suspended sediment fluxes using optical backscatter sensors and current meters

The sensitivity of the suspended sediment flux is tested with respect to rapid changes in bed-level across the surf zone of a sandy beach. The suspended flux was computed using a fixed instrument array, but bed-level changes due to ripple migration caused the instrument elevations to be significantly changed during the course of the experiment. The nominal elevations of the instruments were adjusted during data processing (using the MOBS array) to maintain a fixed elevation with respect to bed-level changes. The resultant suspended sediment concentrations and fluxes were significantly different from the unadjusted data, and for the present data set O(35%) less when averaged over the tide. The maximum difference between adjusted and unadjusted fluxes may be O(260%). The results indicate that changes in bed-level, particularly those due to bedform migration, must be accounted for when processing OBS data if reliable estimates of suspended sediment transport are to be obtained in the field.     

Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones

New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations.     

Developing a building policy for the erosion zone: Solutions to some key (Dutch) questions

In those coastal communities where the most seaward strip of mainland consists of dunes, these dunes often serve as a flexible sea defence. In addition, this strip offers large potential for housing and commercial enterprises. Unfortunately, due to severe storm surges part of this strip (the erosion zone) is subject to erosion, and as a result of which any buildings or infrastructure located here, are destroyed. Therefore, as we will illustrate in this paper, a building policy for this zone should reflect a compromise between two opposite interests: exploitation of the existing potential and, prevention of an unacceptable high risk due to erosion. Accordingly, the authors have developed a framework for such a building policy on the basis of which the desirability of various different types of investments and the location within the erosion zone of such investments can be determined. The examples that are used to illustrate this framework in this paper are limited to experiences in The Netherlands as relevant data and experiences are available and relatively easy accessible here. Nevertheless, the approach as is described is generic and applicable worldwide suggesting that the discovered unused potential for exploitation is not just limited to The Netherlands.     

Discussion of “Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves” by T.-W. Hsu et al., Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006

In the recent paper by Tai-Wen Hsu, John R.-C. Hsu, Wen-Kai Weng, Swun-Kwang Wang, and Shan-Hwei Ou (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006), the authors derived theoretical formulations for calculating the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on a beach. The derivation of an expression for setdown contains errors which would lead to an imbalance in longshore momentum flux outside the surfzone. We correct their derivation and give results in terms of the radiation stress concept in a general case including an oblique wave incidence. We also point out that the correct form of wave setdown is important to describe the zero-net force in the momentum balance outside the surfzone.     

海洋功能区开发潜力评价方法

借鉴海洋资源开发潜力、旅游开发潜力、土地开发潜力、主体功能区开发潜力、可持续发展能力和多指标综合评价等方面的研究方法和指标体系,首次提出了海洋功能区开发潜力的概念、构成和指标,并分析了层次分析法在海洋功能区开发潜力评价中的适用性,总结了海洋功能区开发潜力评价的方法、步骤和存在的问题。     

杭州湾上海石化沿岸潮间带生态环境分析

通过对1993～2002年杭州湾上海石化沿岸潮间带底栖动物群落结构的分析,得出上海石化处理达标后排放的工业废水对此段潮间带生态环境影响的范围和程度。自2002年到现在为止,本潮间带的底栖动物群落结构呈现一种适应性广、耐污染的结构组成.其生物多样性指数值在2.00～3.50之间。     

Denitrification in Qi'ao Island coastal zone, the Zhujiang Estuary in China

Samples of sediments and the overlying water were collected in the Qi'ao Island coastal zone, the Zhujiang (Pearl River) Estuary (ZE). Denitrification rates, sediment oxygen demand (SOD) , and fluxes of inorganic nitrogen compounds were investigated with N2 flux method, using a self-designed continuous flow through and auto-sampling system. The results indicate that the denitrification rates varied between 222 and 908 μmol/(m2·h) with an average of 499 μmol/(m2·h). During incubation, the sediments absorbed dissolved oxygen in the overlying water with SOD ranging from 300 to 2 363 μmol/(m2·h). The denitrification rates were highly correlated with the SOD (r2 =0.77) regardless of the NO3- + NO2- concentrations in the overlying water, organ- ic carbon contents in sediments and water temperature, suggesting that the SOD was probably the main environ-mental factor controlling the denitrification in the Qi'ao Island coastal zone. There was a net flux of NO3- + NO2-into the sediments from the overlying water. The NH4+ flux from sediments into water as the result of mineraliza-tion was between 12. 3 and 210. 3 μmol/(m2·h) ,which seems limited by both organic carbon content in sedi-ment and dissolved oxygen concentration in the overlying water.     

The application of hyperspectral remote sensing to coast environment investigation

Requirements for monitoring the coastal zone environment are first summarized. Then the application of hyperspectral remote sensing to coast environment investigation is introduced, such as the classification of coast beaches and bottom matter, target recognition, mine detection, oil spill identification and ocean color remote sensing. Finally, what is needed to follow on in application of hyperspectral remote sensing to coast environment is recommended.     

Quantifying the storm erosion hazard for coastal planning

The quantity of coastline retreat resulting from storm erosion is one of the most important phenomena that needs to be accurately quantified to facilitate effective coastal management strategies. Historically, the volume of storm erosion (and coastline retreat) accommodated for coastal planning decisions has been directly linked to the storm (usually defined by considering wave height and duration only) with a certain pre-defined return period, known as a Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) (e.g. 1 in 100 year storm). The SDS method of estimating storm erosion volumes for coastal planning thus assumes that, for example, the 1 in 100 year storm event also results in a 1 in 100 year erosion event. This communication discusses the physical reality of this assumption and demonstrates the improved performance of a new method, based on Joint Probability Distributions (JPD) for estimating storm erosion volumes proposed by Callaghan et al. [Callaghan, D.P., Nielsen, P., Short, A.D. and Ranasinghe, R., 2008. Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion. Coastal Engineering, 55(5): 375–390] using one of the world's longest beach profile surveys from Sydney, Australia.     

Geometry and architectural associations of co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds in basin-margin strata, Carboniferous Ross Sandstone (Ireland): Applications to reservoirs located on the margins of structurally confined submarine fans

Co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds are most commonly found in distal basin-plain settings and basin margins. This study documents the geometry, architectural association and paleogeographic occurrence of co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds in the Carboniferous Ross Sandstone with the goal of reducing uncertainty in the interpretation of subsurface data in similarly shaped basins where oil and gas is produced.The Ross Sandstone of western Ireland was deposited in a structurally confined submarine basin. Two outcrops contain co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds: Ballybunnion and Inishcorker. Both of the exposures contain strata deposited on the margin of the basin. An integrated dataset was used to characterize the stratigraphy of the Ballybunnion exposure. The exposure is divided into lower, middle, and upper units. The lower unit contains laminated shale with phosphate nodules, structureless siltstone, convolute bedding/slumps, locally contorted shale, and siltstone turbidites. The middle unit contains co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds, siltstone turbidites, and structureless siltstone. Each co-genetic debrite–turbidite bed contains evidence that fluid turbulence and matrix strength operated alternately and possibly simultaneously during deposition by a single sediment-gravity-flow event. The upper unit contains thin-bedded sandy turbidites, amalgamated sandy turbidites, siltstone turbidites, structureless siltstone, and laminated shale. A similar vertical facies pattern is found at Inishcorker.Co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds are only found at the basin-margin. We interpret these distinct beds to have originated as sand-rich, fully turbulent flows that eroded muddy strata on the slope as well as interbedded sandstone and mudstone in axial positions of the basin floor forming channels and associated megaflute erosional surfaces. This erosion caused the axially dispersing flows to laterally evolve to silt- and clay-rich flows suspended by both fluid turbulence and matrix strength due to a relative increase in clay proportions and associated turbulence suppression. The flows were efficient enough to bypass the basin center/floor, physically disconnecting their deposits from coeval lobes, resulting in deposition of co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds on the basin margin. The record of these bypassing flows in axial positions of the basin is erosional surfaces draped by thin siltstone beds with organic debris.A detailed cross-section through the Ross Sandstone reveals a wedge of low net-to-gross, poor reservoir-quality strata that physically separates sandy, basin-floor strata from the basin margin. The wedge of strata is referred to as the transition zone. The transition zone is composed of co-genetic debrite–turbidite beds, structureless siltstone, slumps, locally contorted shale, and laminated shale. Using data from the Ross Sandstone, two equations are defined that predict the size and shape of the transition zone. The equations use three variables (thickness of basin-margin strata, thickness of coeval strata on the basin floor, and angle of the basin margin) to solve for width (w) and trajectory of the basinward side of the low net-to-gross wedge (β). Beta is not a time line, but a facies boundary that separates sandy basin floor strata from silty basin-margin strata. The transition zone is interpreted to exist on lateral and distal margins of the structurally confined basin.Seismic examples from Gulf of Mexico minibasins reveal a wedge of low continuity, low amplitude seismic facies adjacent to the basin margin. Strata in this wedge are interpreted as transition-zone sediments, similar to those in the Ross Sandstone. Besides defining the size and shape of the transition zone, the variables “w” and “β” define two important drilling parameters. The variable “w” corresponds to the minimum distance a well bore should be positioned from the lateral basin margin to intersect sandy strata, and “β” corresponds to the deviation (from horizontal) of the well bore to follow the interface between sandy and low net-to-gross strata. Calculations reveal that “w” and “β” are related to the relative amount of draping, condensed strata on the margin and the angle of the basin margin. Basins with shallowly dipping margins and relatively high proportions of draping, clay-rich strata have wider transition zones compared to basins with steeply dipping margins with little draping strata. These concepts can reduce uncertainty when interpreting subsurface data in other structurally confined basins including those in Gulf of Mexico, offshore West Africa, and Brunei.