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131.
介绍了畸形波生成的方法并对各种线性合成畸形波的效率进行了对比。选用改进的随机波加瞬态波的方法模拟强非线性波———"新年波"的波形。采用微元法对张力腿平台的立柱和浮筒进行离散,编制程序对张力腿平台在强非线性波作用下的耦合动力响应进行了数值模拟,重点比较分析了张力腿平台在随机波及畸形波中所受波浪力、平台动力响应、系泊系统张力特性及浪向角对平台运动的影响。研究表明:在"新年波"作用下,0°浪向时,平台在x和z方向所受波浪力较随机波增长了约1/4,纵荡、垂荡及纵摇响应值分别增加了33%,38%和12%,张力腿张力幅值增加约20%,位于平台四角的张力腿张力有所差异,相邻两根张力腿的张力差别不大,浪向角对平台运动响应、张力腿张力的影响畸形波大于随机波的作用。为今后考虑强非线性波浪影响时张力腿平台的设计提供了借鉴和参考。  相似文献   
132.
The Luzon Strait is the main impact pathway of the Kuroshio on the circulation in South China Sea (SCS). Based on the analysis of the 1997–2007 altimeter data and 2005–2006 output data from a high resolution global HYCOM model, the total Luzon Strait Transport (LST) has remarkable subseasonal oscillations with a typical period of 90 to 120 days, and an average value of 1.9 Sv into SCS. Further spectrum analysis shows that the temporal variability of the LST at different depth is remarkable different. In the upper layer (0–300 m), westward inflow has significant seasonal and subseasonal variability. In the bottom layer (below 1 200 m), eastward outflow exhibits remarkable seasonal variability, while subseasonal variability is also clear. In the intermediate layer, the westward inflow is slightly bigger than the eastward outflow, and both of them have obvious seasonal and subseasonal variability. Because the seasonal variation of westward inflow and eastward outflow is opposite, the total transport of intermediate layer exhibits significant 50–150 days variation, without obvious seasonal signals. The westward Rossby waves with a period of 90 to 120 days in the Western Pacific have very clear correlationship with the Luzon Strait Transport, this indicates that the interaction between these westward Rossby waves and Kuroshio might be the possible mechanism of the subseasonal variation of the LST.  相似文献   
133.
A new theoretical solution is presented here for the dynamic characteristics of a buoyant jet due to opposing small amplitude waves.The conservation equations of mass,tangential momentum and vertical momentum are solved by the integral method which encompasses the Gaussian profiles of velocity and density.The action of waves is incorporated into the equations of motion as an external force and a new exact solution is obtained to predict the trajectory,velocity distribution and boundary thickness of the buoyant jet over an arbitrary lateral cross section.It is found that the velocity along the centerline is inversely proportional to the ratio of the momentum of the wave to the buoyant jet.The averaged boundary width varies with the fluctuation of the boundary width,the distance from the orifice and the velocity correction function.Owing to the motion d waves,the fluctuation of the boundary width is proportional to the wave steepness.  相似文献   
134.
This paper provides a practical method by which the drag force on a vegetation field beneath nonlinear random waves can be estimated. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula together with an empirical drag coefficient given by Mendez et al. (Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., 1999. Hydrodynamics induced by wind waves in a vegetation field. J. Geophys. Res. 104 (C8), 18383–18396). Effects of nonlinear waves are included by using Stokes second order wave theory where the basic harmonic motion is assumed to be a stationary Gaussian narrow–band random process. An example of calculation is also presented.  相似文献   
135.
In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2 Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure, or vertical velocity. Reflection calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three-gauge methods are compared. They are based on existing experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current. Applications to field measurements, out of and in the breaking zones are then presented. In the nearshore, coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, and coincident horizontal velocity and pressure close to the bottom give relevant information concerning partially standing waves.  相似文献   
136.
A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The boundary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, an artificial damping zone is used to prevent wave reflection back into the computational domain. Using the image Green function in the whole fluid domain, the integrations on the two lateral walls and bottom are excluded. The simulation results on extreme wave elevations in finite and infinite water-depths are compared with experimental results and second-order analytical solutions respectively. The wave kinematics is also discussed in the present study.  相似文献   
137.
The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study.  相似文献   
138.
James M. Kaihatu   《Ocean Modelling》2009,26(3-4):190-205
The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.  相似文献   
139.
The sloshing waves in a three dimensional (3D) tank are analysed using a finite element method based on the fully non-linear wave potential theory. When the tank is undergoing two dimensional (2D) motion, the calculated results are found to be in very good agreement with other published data. Extensive calculation has been made for the tank in 3D motion. As in 2D motion, in addition to normal standing waves, travelling waves and bores are also observed. It is found that high pressures occur in various circumstances, which could have important implications for many engineering designs.  相似文献   
140.
根据1983-1989年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料,分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明,这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪,在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高,既有较大波陡的风浪,也有波陡较小的清浪;各向波高的均值变化不大,各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距;本区的台风浪以4级波高占优,风浪以NNE向、涌浪以E向为常浪向;波高为4级的风浪和涌浪,其周期分别在4.0-4.9S和7.0-7.9S之  相似文献   
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