Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

舟山潮间带生态学研究：Ⅱ.数量及其分布

舟山潮间带生物种类数量的平面分布与盐度和海岸开敞性有关,垂直分布与潮汐有关;群落数量的水平分布与底质和海岸开敞性有关,垂直分布与潮汐有关。舟山潮间带生物有明显的分带现象,隐蔽的岩岸区分为:滨螺带和藤壶-牡蛎带两个带;开敞性岩岸区分为:滨螺带,藤壶-(虫戚)-藻类带及藻类带3个带。沙滩区分为:沙蟹带和浅蛤-斧蛤带两个带;泥沙滩区分为:盐碱植物-滨螺带和招潮蟹-大眼蟹带;泥滩区分为:蟹守螺-囊螺带和蟹守螺-织纹螺带。     

南海区重点岸段海岸侵蚀现状成因分析与防治对策

在2003年与2006年对南海区琼州海峡两岸重点岸段(雷州市徐闻县龙塘镇赤坎村岸段、海南省海口市镇海村岸段和新海村岸段)的海岸侵蚀进行了现场监测,测量了侵蚀的长度、宽度和面积。对两年现场测量结果进行比较分析,结果表明:海岸侵蚀长度的平均速度为200m/a,宽度的平均速度为20m/a,面积的平均速度为4000m2/a。应用了地质分析、水动力分析、极端海洋气候影响分析等新的理论和方法重点分析了海岸侵蚀的成因,并提出了一些对策,供相关部门参考。     

亚热带沿海景观的旅游保护性开发及建设探讨--以福建沿海为例

依据地貌学和风景学的角度,福建沿海景观以闽江口和九龙江口为界可分为3个景观亚区,并具有多样性与复杂性、动态性与脆弱性和关联性与分异性等特征.本文运用景观生态的原理研究沿海景观的构成与格局,在沿海景观的分类和特征概括的基础上,探讨福建沿海景观旅游开发与建设的模式.通过维护沿海景观系统的稳定,优化沿海各景观亚区的分布格局,提高沿海景观的整体舒适性和挖掘文化景观的内涵等应对措施以实现福建沿海旅游的科学发展.     

深圳发展东部滨海旅游度假区的前景探析

深圳具备优良的海滨旅游资源，但其滨海旅游特色一直体现得不够充分，滨海度假旅游品牌在全国以至海外的影响力还很有限。深圳最近对东部滨海地区的发展进行了总体规划，根据深圳东部滨海地区发展现状和发展规划，就开发深圳东部滨海旅游度假胜地、将东部滨海旅游度假区打造成为具有国际水准的、以滨海休闲度假为特色的黄金海岸旅游胜地提出了的几点建议。     

基于非期望产出的中国滨海旅游生态效率评价——以我国沿海城市为例

旅游生态效率是反映旅游经济与旅游环境双向效应(bi-effect)的重要判断指标。本文基于非期望产出视角,采用超效率SBM模型,评价了我国东部沿海18个主要滨海旅游城市的旅游生态效率,并分析了其时空演变特征。研究结果表明:(1)中国东部沿海18市滨海旅游生态效率整体呈中等水平,平均值处于0.727～0.894,阶段特征明显,呈现前期平稳发展,中期下降,后期回升的发展趋势;(2)各城市滨海旅游生态效率水平差异显著,分为下行风险型,持续成长型,稳定型和波动型4种发展类型。平均效率值最高为天津,最低为三亚;(3)分解效率均值中纯技术效率较高,规模效率次之,技术进步是影响综合效率的主要因素;(4)投入冗余和非期望产出冗余已经成为阻碍滨海旅游生态效率进步的关键因素。     

Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

Trichodesmium erythraeum (Ehrenberg) bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) and its impact on trace metal concentrations in seawater

The incidence of a large scale Trichodesmium erythraeum bloom along the southwest coast of India (Arabian Sea) observed in May 2005 is reported. Around 4802 filaments of T. erythraeum ml⁻¹ seawater was observed and a colony consisted of 3.6 × 10⁵ cells. The bloom was predominant off Suratkal (12° 59′N and 74° 31′E) with a depth of about 47 m, covering an area of 7 km in length and 2 km width. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium, Lead, Copper, Nickel and Cobalt were determined in samples collected from the bloom and non-bloom sites using stripping voltammetry. The observed hydrographical and meteorological parameters were found to be favorable for the bloom. The concentrations of Zinc, Cadmium and Nickel were found to be higher at bloom stations, while the concentrations of Lead, Copper and Cobalt were found to be very low at bloom stations. Elevated concentrations of Cadmium and Cobalt were observed at Valappad mainly due to the decomposition of detrital material produced in the bloom. Statistically significant differences (P > 0.01) in metal concentrations between the bloom and non-bloom stations were not observed except for Copper. Metals such as Lead, Copper and Cobalt were removed from the seawater at all places where bloom was observed. Cadmium was found to be slowly released during the decaying process of the bloom.     

First results from the North Iceland experiment

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.