Sediments and water fluxes in a muddy coastline: interplay between waves and tidal channel hydrodynamics

Tidal channels are ubiquitous in muddy coastlines and play a critical role in the redistribution of sediments, thus dictating the general evolution of intertidal landforms. In muddy coastlines, the morphology of tidal channels and adjacent marshes strongly depends on the supply of fine sediments from the shelf and on the resuspension of sediments by wind waves. To investigate the processes that regulate sediment fluxes in muddy coastlines, we measured tidal velocity and sediment concentration in Little Constance Bayou, a tidal channel in the Rockefeller State Wildlife Refuge, Louisiana, USA. The tidal measurements were integrated with measurements of wave activity in the bay at the mouth of the channel, thus allowing the quantification of feedbacks between waves and sediment fluxes. Results indicate that the sediment concentration in the channel is directly related to the wave height in the adjacent bay during flood and high slack water, whereas the concentration during ebb depends on local channel velocity. Moreover, the sediment flux during ebb is of the same order of magnitude as the sediment flux during the previous flood, indicating that only a small fraction of transported sediments are stored in the marsh during a tidal cycle. Finally, very low tides, characterized by high ebb velocities, export large volumes of sediment to the ocean. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of dunes on mixing in a migrating salt‐wedge: Fraser River estuary,Canada

Dune bedforms and salt‐wedge intrusions are common features in many estuaries with sand beds, and yet little is known about the interactions between the two. Flow visualization with an echosounder and velocity measurements with an acoustic Doppler current profiler over areas of flat‐bed and sand dunes in the highly‐stratified Fraser River estuary, Canada, were used to examine the effect of dunes on interfacial mixing. As the salt‐wedge migrates upstream over the flat‐bed, mixing is restricted to the lower portion of the water column. However, as the salt‐wedge migrates into the dune field from the flat bed, there is a dramatic change in the flow, and large internal in‐phase waves develop over each of the larger dunes, with water from the salt‐wedge reaching the surface of the estuary. The friction Richardson number shows that bed friction is more important in interfacial mixing over the dunes than over the flat‐bed, and a plot of internal Froude Number versus obstacle (dune) height shows that the salt‐wedge flow over the dunes is mainly supercritical. Such bedforms can be expected to cause similar effects in interfacial mixing in other estuaries and sediment‐laden density currents, and may thus be influential in fluid mixing and sediment transport. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Comparison of LiDAR waveform processing methods for very shallow water bathymetry using Raman,near‐infrared and green signals

Airborne light detection and ranging (LiDAR) bathymetry appears to be a useful technology for bed topography mapping of non‐navigable areas, offering high data density and a high acquisition rate. However, few studies have focused on continental waters, in particular, on very shallow waters (<2 m) where it is difficult to extract the surface and bottom positions that are typically mixed in the green LiDAR signal. This paper proposes two new processing methods for depth extraction based on the use of different LiDAR signals [green, near‐infrared (NIR), Raman] of the SHOALS‐1000T sensor. They have been tested on a very shallow coastal area (Golfe du Morbihan, France) as an analogy to very shallow rivers. The first method is based on a combination of mathematical and heuristic methods using the green and the NIR LiDAR signals to cross validate the information delivered by each signal. The second method extracts water depths from the Raman signal using statistical methods such as principal components analysis (PCA) and classification and regression tree (CART) analysis. The obtained results are then compared to the reference depths, and the performances of the different methods, as well as their advantages/disadvantages are evaluated. The green/NIR method supplies 42% more points compared to the operator process, with an equivalent mean error (?4·2 cm verusu ?4·5 cm) and a smaller standard deviation (25·3 cm verusu 33·5 cm). The Raman processing method provides very scattered results (standard deviation of 40·3 cm) with the lowest mean error (?3·1 cm) and 40% more points. The minimum detectable depth is also improved by the two presented methods, being around 1 m for the green/NIR approach and 0·5 m for the statistical approach, compared to 1·5 m for the data processed by the operator. Despite its ability to measure other parameters like water temperature, the Raman method needed a large amount of reference data to provide reliable depth measurements, as opposed to the green/NIR method. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Instability of coral limestone cliffs due to extreme waves

Many boulders are located around the coastal cliffs with height of below 5 m made of coral limestone at Kuro‐shima, Okinawa, Japan. The origin of the boulders appears to be coral limestone cliffs which show developed notches. We undertook stability analysis, involving the wave pressure due to tsunamis, of wave‐induced collapse of the cliffs. We find that extreme waves are capable of inducing cliff collapse, as observed in circumstances where gravity is insufficient. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Estimation of regional material yield from coastal landslides based on historical digital terrain modelling

High‐resolution historical (1942) and recent (1994) digital terrain models were derived from aerial photographs along the Big Sur coastline in central California to measure the long‐term volume of material that enters the nearshore environment. During the 52‐year measurement time period, an average of 21 000 ± 3100 m³ km^?1 a^?1 of material was eroded from nine study sections distributed along the coast, with a low yield of 1000 ± 240 m³ km^?1 a^?1 and a high of 46 700 ± 7300 m³ km^?1 a^?1. The results compare well with known volumes from several deep‐seated landslides in the area and suggest that the processes by which material is delivered to the coast are episodic in nature. In addition, a number of parameters are investigated to determine what influences the substantial variation in yield along the coast. It is found that the magnitude of regional coastal landslide sediment yield is primarily related to the physical strength of the slope‐forming material. Coastal Highway 1 runs along the lower portion of the slope along this stretch of coastline, and winter storms frequently damage the highway. The California Department of Transportation is responsible for maintaining this scenic highway while minimizing the impacts to the coastal ecosystems that are part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. This study provides environmental managers with critical background data on the volumes of material that historically enter the nearshore from landslides, as well as demonstrating the application of deriving historical digital terrain data to model landscape evolution. Published in 2005 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

怀4井数字化水位观测资料初步分析

介绍了怀4井的地质构造情况和怀4井数字化水位观测资料的特征。分析了该井水位观测资料潮汐效应,同时指出了影响该井水位观测质量的干扰因素,加深了对怀4井水位资料的认识,有助于今后分析预报水平的提高。     

三种土层结构反应谱平台值的统计分析

本文以建筑抗震设计规范规定的反应谱为目标谱,通过调整加速度峰值和特征周期来人工合成数百条加速度时程曲线,并将其作为土层地震反应分析的地震动输入。在若干有工程意义的场地剖面中,选取和构造了部分软弱土层分别在底部、中部和顶部的三种土层剖面,利用土层地震反应分析的一维等效线性化波动方法,计算了不同土层剖面在不同地震动输入下的地表加速度反应谱的平台值。在统计分析的基础上,给出了不同场地三种土层结构的反应谱平台值的平均值。通过与正常剖面的反应谱平台值比较,给出了三种土层结构的反应谱平台值的影响系数。本文的研究获得了一些有意义的成果。