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41.
Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
A. Bilgili M. R. Swift D. R. Lynch J. T. C. Ip 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):937-950
Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s−1. Current and sea level forced by the M2M4M6 tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area. 相似文献
42.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):89-92
The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For
short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes
of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the
angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in
both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest
and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves.
For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when
they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles
(centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking
waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation. 相似文献
43.
Instability analysis of three-dimensional ocean shear waves 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Qiao Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(1):1-8
Instabilityanalysisofthree-dimensionaloceanshearwaves¥QiaoFangli(ReceivedNovember6,1995,acceptedNovember30.1995)Abstract:Base... 相似文献
44.
45.
Wave-Current Forces on Slender Circular Cylinders 总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3
Li Yucheng Wang Fenglong Kang Haigui Professor Dalian University of Technology Dalian Senior Engineer Dalian University of Technology Dalian Lecturer Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)
- A series model tests of wave forces by both regular and irregular waves combined with currents on single piles and bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays have been carried out. Based on Morison Equation, linear wave theory and linear wave spectrum theory as well, the characteristics of inline, lift and resultant forces on cylinders have been analyzed respectively. The drag, inertia and lift coefficients CD, CM and CL f皉 single piles related to KC number and the grouping effect coefficients of inline, lift and resultant forces on bipiles in tandem and parallel arrays related to KC number are given in this paper. 相似文献
46.
Yu Yuxiu Liu Shuxue Li Li Professor Dept. of Civil Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian
Research Assistant Dept. of Civil Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)
Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given. 相似文献
47.
Radiocarbon and total carbonate data were obtained near the 1973 GEOSECS stations in the North Pacific along 30°N and along 175°E between 1993 and 1994. In these stations, we estimated radiocarbon originating from atomic bomb tests using tritium, trichlorofluoromethane and silicate contents. The average penetration depth of bomb radiocarbon during the two decades has deepened from 900 m to 1300 m. Bomb radiocarbon inventories above the average value for the whole North Pacific were found widely in the western subtropical region around 30°N both in the 1970s and 1990s, and its area in the 1990s was broader than that in the 1970s. In most of the North Pacific, while the bomb radiocarbon has decreased above 25.4, the bomb radiocarbon flux below 25.4 was over 1 × 1012 atom m-2yr-1 in the subtropical region around 30°N. In the tropical area south of 20°N, the bomb radiocarbon inventory below 25.4 increased from zero to over 10 × 1012 atom m-2 during the last three decades. These distributions suggest that the bomb radiocarbon removed from the surface is currently accumulated with bomb 14C flux of over 1 × 1012 atom m-2yr-1 below 25.4 in the subtropical region, mainly by advection from the higher latitude, and that part of the accumulated bomb 14C gradually spread southward with about 30 years. 相似文献
48.
The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed. 相似文献
49.
In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work. 相似文献
50.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献