The intertidal erosion rate of cohesive sediment: a case study from Long Island Sound

Over the past decades, many attempts have been made to generate useful bottom erosion models for the study of cohesive sediment movement. This study addresses some of the key questions involved in determining the functional relationship between erosion rate and bottom shear stress. Current, wave, and turbidity data were collected from a bottom mounted instrument array in a moderately energetic estuarine environment. The bottom shear stress was calculated from a wave–current interaction model. The erosion rate was derived from the observed sediment concentration using a vertical mixing model. Examination of the relationship between erosion rate and bottom stress showed that the erosion rate varied at intertidal frequency. When averaged over the tidal fluctuation, the erosion rate remained approximately constant at low stress, but increased sharply when the shear stress rose above a critical value. This suggests two-stage erosion. The bed has a layered structure, in which a thin layer of loose, high water content material overlies a more consolidated bed. The top layer of high water content material (fluff) was easily disturbed and re-suspended by tidal currents, but the consolidated bottom layer was eroded only under conditions of high shear stress.     

雷州半岛灯楼角海岸地貌演变

灯楼角岬角位于雷州半岛的西南端,地处热带北缘.过去几次开展的区域地貌和第四纪地质调查及制图,均包括本区1),2),[1～2].宋朝景曾做过涉及本区海底的地貌与浅地层调查3),又指导学生研究本段海岸地貌4).近年赵焕庭等[3]开展该区珊瑚礁研究,使用了1960年版航空照片和1964年版1:10000地形图,结合野外调查,进一步研究了本区海岸地貌的演变.     

我国浅海滩涂资源开发与对策

我国浅海滩涂开发已成为海洋开发的战场和向深海远洋挺进的桥头堡，但存在管理混乱，资源浪费和破坏严重，争抢资源等海事纠纷上升，海洋劳力素质和劳效下降等问题，应采取优化资源配置，加强政策立法，重视科技投入，强化综合管理等对策，促其健康发展。     

分潮波模型多资料数值计算方法研究 Ⅰ.岸边资料运动学外推的第一边值方法

对于含多资料三维分潮波模型建立了一种岸边资料运动学外推的潮波第一边值方法，并对渤海的四大原湖波进行试算。结果证实本方法可行，该方法使潮波方程既满足第一边值问题，充分利用岸边测站资料，又保证岸界法向流速为零条件，符合物理意义。并对复型病态矩阵的收敛问题提出了一种可行性处理。     

江苏岸外条子泥二分水滩脊的沉积特征

2000年1月16日在江苏岸外条子泥沙洲二分水滩脊选取三条断面，进行底质沉积物采样及滩面高程测量。共采集样品27个，对其用激光粒度仪进行粒度分析，发现沉积物的粒度参数、粒度组分及其分布均具有一定的变化规律，且与滩面高程变化具有很好的相关性。     

A novel time-series station in the Wadden Sea (NW Germany): First results on continuous nutrient and methane measurements

In autumn 2002 a time-series station was installed in the tidal inlet between the Islands of Langeoog and Spiekeroog (Southern North Sea, NW Germany) to continuously measure physical, chemical, and meteorological parameters, even during extreme weather conditions (gale-force storms, drifting ice). Inside the pole of the station sensor tubes are installed in direction of the prevailing tidal currents. The tubes are equipped with hydrographic sensors (pressure, temperature, conductivity) and allow retrieval of water for nutrient analysis by automated instruments located inside the pole. Dissolved methane and the nutrients ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, and silicate are measured at the station.     

Numerical modeling of long waves in shallow water using Incremental Differential Quadrature Method

Incremental Differential Quadrature Method (IDQM) as a rapid and accurate method for numerical simulation of Nonlinear Shallow Water (NLSW) waves is employed. To the best of authors’ knowledge, this is the first endeavor to exploit DQM in coastal hydraulics. The one-dimensional NLSW equations and related boundary conditions are discretized in space and temporal directions by DQM rules and the resulting system of equations are used to compute the state variables in the entire computational domain. It was found that the splitting of total simulation time into a number of smaller time increments, could significantly enhance the performance of the proposed method. Furthermore, results of this study show two main advantages for IDQM compared with other conventional methods, namely; unconditional stability and minimal computational effort. Indeed, using IDQM, one can use a few grid points (in spatial or time direction) without imposing any stability condition on the time step to obtain an accurate convergent solution.     

东部沿海滩涂和浅海资源大开发之我见

介绍了浙江东南沿海的台州市及所属玉环县、温州市及所属乐清市、瓯海区等地面实施海洋“蓝色工程”的丰富实践和新鲜经验。文中借鉴浙东南沿海大开发的成功经验,结合我国东部沿海其它地区特别是苏北沿海的实际,提出了做出滩涂开发利用、发展海洋经济的总体战略构想。     

Coastal geomorphic evolution at the Denglou Cape, the Leizhou Peninsula

ＩＮＴＲＯＤＵＣＴＩＯＮＴｈｅＤｅｎｇｌｏｕＣａｐｅ ,ｉｎｔｈｅｓｏｕｔｈｗｅｓｔｏｆｔｈｅＬｅｉｚｈｏｕＰｅｎｉｎｓｕｌａ ,ｉｓａｔｔｈｅｎｏｒｔｈｍａｒｇｉｎｏｆｔｒｏｐｉｃａｌｚｏｎｅ .ＳｅｖｅｒａｌｒｅｓｅａｒｃｈｅｓａｎｄｃａｒｔｏｇｒａｐｈｉｅｓｏｆｔｈｅｒｅｇｉｏｎａｌｇｅｏｍｏｒｐｈｏｌｏｇｙａｎｄＱｕａｔｅｒ ｎａｒｙｇｅｏｌｏｇｙ ,ｗｈｉｃｈｗｅｒｅｃａｒｒｉｅｄｏｕｔｉｎｔｈｅｐａｓｔ,ａｌｌｉｎｃｌｕｄｅｔｈｉｓａｒｅａ (ＭＧＬ ,ＳＣＳＩＯ ,ＣＡＳ ,1 978;ＧＰＣＳＧＲＣＺＴ…     

海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的计算模式

分别于1986年12月和1985年3月1日—1987年3月1日在海州湾进行了波浪和含沙量观测，运用所获资料以及本区长期水文、地形资料，采用流体力学、沉积学和泥沙运动力学相结合的研究方法，建立了海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的二维计算模式。结果表明，在堆积型淤泥质海滩，由于浮泥的经常性存在，使波浪急剧衰减，其对岸滩的作用甚为微弱，潮流成为塑造淤泥质海滩的主要动力，岸滩在淤涨过程中，在平均高潮位厂沿和平均低潮位附近出现两个凸点，上一个凸点外推速率大于下一个凸点，潮下带变化缓慢。