世界大洋长历时局地风速和有效波高的统计与分析

本文基于美国海军测地卫星高度计提供的全球范围长历时局地平均风速和有效波高资料进行统计分析,结果表明,世界大洋长历时局地平均风速和有效波高有明显的相关性,其散布点系统地位于Wilson提出的深水充分成长风浪平均风速和有效波高经验曲线之上;并从能量叠加平衡方程,近似定量估计出大洋中长历时涌浪有效波高与局地平均风速的关系。     

太湖北岸风浪谱的特征分析

利用１９９２年在太湖北岸马迹山地区测得的浅水风风浪资料，采用ＦＦＴ方法求算风浪频谱，对谱结构特征的分析表明，观测到的风浪谱在平衡范围谱值按－４．０幂指数衰减，风浪谱形状与文圣常给出的理论结果比较接近。另外，分析以风要素为参量得到的无因次化频谱可以看出，观测谱基本满足谱的相似律。     

ERS散射计风速资料反演海面粗糙度

本文首先提出了一个利用海面风场计算海面粗糙度(空气动力学粗糙长度)的模式。应用ERS-1/2散射计风速资料,对我国南海海域的海面粗糙度进行了初步的研究。卫星散射计测风具有高精度和高空间分辨率等特点,这对于研究海面粗糙度及波长、周期和波陡等波浪信息研究提供了坚实的数据基础。     

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.     

Changes in the northern Gulf of St. Lawrence ecosystem estimated by inverse modelling: Evidence of a fishery-induced regime shift?

Mass-balance models have been constructed using inverse methodology for the northern Gulf of St. Lawrence for the mid-1980s, the mid-1990s, and the early 2000s to describe ecosystem structure, trophic group interactions, and the effects of fishing and predation on the ecosystem for each time period. Our analyses indicate that the ecosystem structure shifted dramatically from one previously dominated by demersal (cod, redfish) and small-bodied forage (e.g., capelin, mackerel, herring, shrimp) species to one now dominated by small-bodied forage species. Overfishing removed a functional group in the late 1980s, large piscivorous fish (primarily cod and redfish), which has not recovered 14 years after the cessation of heavy fishing. This has left only marine mammals as top predators during the mid-1990s, and marine mammals and small Greenland halibut during the early 2000s. Predation by marine mammals on fish increased from the mid-1980s to the early 2000s while predation by large fish on fish decreased. Capelin and shrimp, the main prey in each period, showed an increase in biomass over the three periods. A switch in the main predators of capelin from cod to marine mammals occurred, while Greenland halibut progressively replaced cod as shrimp predators. Overfishing influenced community structure directly through preferential removal of larger-bodied fishes and indirectly through predation release because larger-bodied fishes exerted top-down control upon other community species or competed with other species for the same prey. Our modelling estimates showed that a change in predation structure or flows at the top of the trophic system led to changes in predation at all lower trophic levels in the northern Gulf of St. Lawrence. These changes represent a case of fishery-induced regime shift.     

Derivation of coastal wind and wave parameters from offshore measurements of TOPEX satellite using ANN

The paper discusses an artificial neural network (ANN) approach to project information on wind speed and waves collected by the TOPEX satellite at deeper locations to a specified coastal site. The observations of significant wave heights, average wave period and wind speed at a number of locations over a satellite track parallel to a coastline are used to estimate corresponding values of these three parameters at the coastal site of interest. A combined network involving an input and output of all the three parameters, viz., wave height, period and wind speed instead of separate networks for each one of these variables was found to be necessary in order to train the network with sufficient flexibility. It was also found that network training based on statistical homogeneity of data sets is essential to obtain accurate results. The problem of modeling wind speeds that are always associated with very high variations in their magnitudes was tackled in this study by imparting training in an innovated manner.     

WEST: A northern California study of the role of wind-driven transport in the productivity of coastal plankton communities

The “Wind Events and Shelf Transport” (WEST) program was an interdisciplinary study of coastal upwelling off northern California in 2000–03. WEST was comprised of modeling and field observations. The primary goal of WEST was to better describe and understand the competing influences of wind forcing on planktonic productivity in coastal waters. While increased upwelling-favorable winds lead to increased nutrient supply, they also result in reduced light exposure due to deeper surface mixed layers and increased advective loss of plankton from coastal waters. The key to understanding high levels of productivity, amidst these competing responses to wind forcing, is the temporal and spatial structure of upwelling. Temporal fluctuations and spatial patterns allow strong upwelling that favors nutrient delivery to be juxtaposed with less energetic conditions that favor stratification and plankton blooms. Observations of winds, ocean circulation, nutrients, phytoplankton and zooplankton off Bodega Bay and Point Reyes (38°N) were combined with model studies of winds, circulation and productivity. This overview of the WEST program provides an introduction to the WEST special issue of Deep-Sea Research, including the motivation for WEST, a summary of study components, an integrative synthesis of major research results to-date, and background on conditions during field studies in May–June 2001 (the upwelling period on which this special issue is focused).     

Influence of snow accumulation and snowmelt on streamflow in the central Spanish Pyrenees / Influence de l’accumulation et de la fonte de la neige sur les écoulements dans les Pyrénées centrales espagnoles

Abstract

Abstract Results of studies related to the effect of snow accumulation and snowmelt on river regimes of the central Spanish Pyrenees are presented. Streamflow of the Pyrenean rivers is characterized by low and constant discharges during winter because of accumulation of snow in the basins above 1600 m a.s.l., and high and fluctuating discharges during spring due to snowmelt and rainfall. Regional discharge contrasts have been assessed in relation to the Atlantic influence and the percentage of high altitude areas in each basin. In most of the Pyrenean basins, snowmelt contributes more to the discharge than rainfall in the spring. The analysis of data shows a decrease in winter precipitation in the last 50 years causing a decrease in both winter and spring discharges and introducing changes in the distribution of streamflow throughout the year.     

Anatexis and fluid regime of the deep continental crust: New clues from melt and fluid inclusions in metapelitic migmatites from Ivrea Zone (NW Italy)

We investigate the inclusions hosted in peritectic garnet from metapelitic migmatites of the Kinzigite Formation (Ivrea Zone, NW Italy) to evaluate the starting composition of the anatectic melt and fluid regime during anatexis throughout the upper amphibolite facies, transition, and granulite facies zones. Inclusions have negative crystal shapes, sizes from 2 to 10 μm and are regularly distributed in the core of the garnet. Microstructural and micro‐Raman investigations indicate the presence of two types of inclusions: crystallized silicate melt inclusions (i.e., nanogranitoids, NI), and fluid inclusions (FI). Microstructural evidence suggests that FI and NI coexist in the same cluster and are primary (i.e., were trapped simultaneously during garnet growth). FI have similar compositions in the three zones and comprise variable proportions of CO₂, CH₄, and N₂, commonly with siderite, pyrophyllite, and kaolinite, suggesting a COHN composition of the trapped fluid. The mineral assemblage in the NI contains K‐feldspar, plagioclase, quartz, biotite, muscovite, chlorite, graphite and, rarely, calcite. Polymorphs such as kumdykolite, cristobalite, tridymite, and less commonly kokchetavite, were also found. Rehomogenized NI from the different zones show that all the melts are leucogranitic but have slightly different compositions. In samples from the upper amphibolite facies, melts are less mafic (FeO + MgO = 2.0–3.4 wt%), contain 860–1700 ppm CO₂ and reach the highest H₂O contents (6.5–10 wt%). In the transition zone melts have intermediate H₂O (4.8–8.5 wt%), CO₂ (457–1534 ppm) and maficity (FeO + MgO = 2.3–3.9 wt%). In contrast, melts at granulite facies reach highest CaO, FeO + MgO (3.2–4.7 wt%), and CO₂ (up to 2,400 ppm), with H₂O contents comparable (5.4–8.3 wt%) to the other two zones. Our results represent the first clear evidence for carbonic fluid‐present melting in the Ivrea Zone. Anatexis of metapelites occurred through muscovite and biotite breakdown melting in the presence of a COH fluid, in a situation of fluid–melt immiscibility. The fluid is assumed to have been internally derived, produced initially by devolatilization of hydrous silicates in the graphitic protolith, then as a result of oxidation of carbon by consumption of Fe³⁺‐bearing biotite during melting. Variations in the compositions of the melts are interpreted to result from higher T of melting. The H₂O contents of the melts throughout the three zones are higher than usually assumed for initial H₂O contents of anatectic melts. The CO₂ contents are highest at granulite facies, and show that carbon‐contents of crustal magmas are not negligible at high T. The activity of H₂O of the fluid dissolved in granitic melts decreases with increasing metamorphic grade. Carbonic fluid‐present melting of the deep continental crust represents, together with hydrate‐breakdown melting reactions, an important process in the origin of crustal anatectic granitoids.     

Real‐time monitoring and estimation of the discharge of flash floods in a steep mountain catchment

Synchronously and accurately estimating the flood discharges and dynamic changes in the fluid density is essential for hydraulic analysis and forecasting of flash floods, as well as for risk assessment. However, such information is rare for steep mountain catchments, especially in regions that are hotspots for earthquakes. Therefore, six hydrological monitoring sites were established in the main stream and tributaries of the 78.3‐km² Longxi River catchment, an affected region of the Wenchuan earthquake region in China. Direct real‐time monitoring equipment was installed to measure the flow depths, velocities, and fluid total pressures of the flood hydrographs. On the basis of field measurements, real‐time mean cross‐sectional velocities during the flood hydrographs could be derived from easily obtainable parameters: cross‐sectional maximum velocities and the calibrated dimensionless parameter K_h . Real‐time discharges were determined on the basis of a noncontact method to establish the effective rating curves of this mountainous stream, ranging from 1.46 to 386.34 m³/s with the root mean square errors of ≤10.22 m³/s. Compared with the traditional point‐velocity method and empirical Manning's formula, the proposed noncontact method was reliable and safe for monitoring whole flood hydrographs. Additionally, the real‐time fluid density during the flood hydrographs was calculated on the basis of the direct monitoring parameters for fluid total pressures and water depths. During the flood hydrograph, transient flow behaviour with higher fluid density generally occurred downstream during the flood peak periods when the flow was in the supercritical flow regime. The observed behaviour greatly increased the threat of damage to infrastructure and human life near the river. Thus, it is important to accurately estimate flood discharge and identify for fluid densities so that people at risk from an impending flash flood are given reliable, advanced warning.