Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

Simulating a heavy metal spill under estuarine conditions: Effects on the clam Scrobicularia plana

We describe the effect of heavy metals Zn, Cd, Pb and Cu on the induction of methallothioneins on the clam Scrobicularia plana along a salinity gradient simulated under laboratory conditions. The clams were exposed to constant heavy metal concentrations in a dynamic estuary simulator during a 15-day assay to investigate possible induction of metal-binding proteins in them. The concentration of heavy metals in water was analysed. Clams were analysed for methallothionein concentrations. The speciation of Zn, Cd, Pb and Cu along the salinity gradient was modelled. Zn showed the highest concentrations and its prevalent species was the free ion. Intersite differences have been observed in methallothionein concentration and related to the salinity gradient. It seems that synthesis of methallothioneins is the result of physiological forces acting in concert with the changes in the chemical speciation of metals, owing to the trace metals uptake is controlled by means of an interaction of physiology and physicochemistry.     

关于南海暖水季节和年际变化的研究

阐述了研究南海暖水的意义 ,综述了关于南海暖水的现状 ,提出了关于南海暖水季节和年际变化方面应该研究的问题     

南海南部粉红色 Globigerinoides ruber 冰期旋回及影响因素

对南海南部ODP1143站氧同位素11-5e期大约2ka分辨率的粉红色Globigerinoides ruber进行分析,发现其冰期／间冰期旋回与代表全球冰量的底栖有孔虫氧同位素(δ^18O)的变化相反,即在间冰期时含量低,而冰期时高,与其他海区的记录相反。海水表层温度和温跃层深度转换函数结果以及碎壳率的变化显示,在一定的温度背景下,温跃层深度的变化可能是控制粉红色G．ruber冰期旋回的主要因素,而这段时期南海南部溶解作用的影响则不明显。     

Competition within the marine microalgae over the polar dark period in the Greenland Sea of high Arctic

Abstract-With the onset of winter, polar marine microalgae would have faced total darkness for aperiod of up to 6 months. A natural autumn community of Arctic sea ice microalgae was collected fordark survival experiments from the Greenland Sea during the ARKTIS-XI/2 Expedition of RV Po-larstern in October 1995. After a dark period of 161 days, species dominance in the algal assemblagehave changed from initially pennate diatoms to small phytoflagellates (<20μm). Over the entire darkperiod, the mean algal growth rate was-0.01 d~(-1). Nearly all diatom species had negative growthrates, while phytoflagellate abundance increased. Resting spore formation during the dark period was ob-served in less than 4.5% of all cells and only for dinoflagellates and the diatom Chaetoceros spp. We as-sume that facultative heterotrophy and energy storage are the main processes enabling survival during thedark Arctic winter. After an increase in light intensity, microalgal cells reacted with fast growth withindays. Phytoffa     

A method to estimate the forces exerted by internal solitons on cylindrical piles

Internal soliton is the large amplitude wave existing in the pycnocline, induced by internal tide in the condition of special bottom topography. During its propagation process, the induced disturbance can bring about strong convergence of sea water and sudden strong current (wave-induced-current), which can cause severe threat to the ocean engineering structures, such as oil drilling platform and pipeline. In this paper, Morison’s empirical method, modal separation and regression analyses are introduced to estimate the forces and torques exerted by internal soliton on cylindrical piles. As an example, a limited set of observational data recording a passage of the internal soliton near Dongsha Islands is used to estimate the horizontal velocity and its acceleration in a vertical section for computing the force and torque on a supposed pile, and the estimation results are reasonable. It is shown that, the higher number of the modes retained in the calculation, the better the estimation of velocity profile fits the observational one. A better overall approximation to the real solution can be reached if there are more observational current data acquired in a whole vertical profile.     

基于EOF分析对南海西北海域水体光谱特性的研究

This study presents an analysis of the spectral characteristics of remote sensing reflectance(R_(rs)) in northwestern South China Sea based on the in situ optical and water quality data for August 2018.R_(rs)was initially divided into four classes,classes A to D,using the max-classification algorithm,and the spectral properties of whole R_(rs) were characterized using the empirical orthogonal function(EOF) analysis.Subsequently,the dominant factors in each EOF mode were determined.The results indicated that more than 95% of the variances of R_(rs) are partly driven by the back-scattering characteristics of the suspended matter.The initial two EOF modes were well correlated with the total suspended matter and back-scattering coefficient.Furthermore,the first EOF modes of the four classes of R_(rs)(A-D R_(rs)-EOF_1) significantly contributed to the total variances of each R_(rs) class.In addition,the correlation coefficients between the amplitude factors of class A-D R_(rs)-EOF_1 and the variances of the relevant water quality and optical parameters were better than those of the unclassified ones.The spectral shape of class AR_(rs)-EOF_1 was governed by the absorption characteristic of chlorophyll a and colored dissolved organic matter(CDOM).The spectral shape of class B R_(rs)-EOF_1 was governed by the absorption characteristic of CDOM since it exhibited a high correlation with the absorption coefficient of CDOM(a_g(λ)),whereas the spectral shape of class C R_(rs)-EOF_1 was governed by the back-scattering characteristics but not affected by the suspended matter.The spectral shape of class D R_(rs)-EOF_1 exhibited a relatively good correlation with all the water quality parameters,which played a significant role in deciding its spectral shape.     

Macrobenthic Communities of the Eastern Mediterranean Continental Shelf

Abstract. The results of a year long study in which soft-bottom epibenthic invertebrates were collected by grab, dredge and beam-trawl, along the southern Mediterranean coast of Israel, are described in this paper. The classificatory analysis used for both normal and inverse analyses used two measures of dissimilarity - Canberra metric and Bray-Curtis, and both group-average and nearest-neighbour clustering. The results were displayed as dendrograms. Four site groups and five species groups characterised a total of 58 site samples and 245 species. The prominent species in each of the five species groups are mentioned. The applicability of "community concepts" and the effects of sediment properties on community structure are discussed.     

The Bering Sea—A dynamic food web perspective

The Bering Sea is a high-latitude, semi-enclosed sea that supports extensive fish, seabird, marine mammal, and invertebrate populations and some of the world's most productive fisheries. The region consists of several distinct biomes that have undergone wide-scale population variation, in part due to fisheries, but also in part due to the effects of interannual and decadal-scale climatic variation. While recent decades of ocean observation have highlighted possible links between climate and species fluctuations, mechanisms linking climate and population fluctuations are only beginning to be understood. Here, we examine the food webs of Bering Sea ecosystems with particular reference to some key shifts in widely distributed, abundant fish populations and their links with climate variation. Both climate variability and fisheries have substantially altered the Bering Sea ecosystem in the past, but their relative importance in shaping the current ecosystem state remains uncertain.