Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

A modelling study of ecosystem dynamics and nutrient cycling in the Humber plume, UK

The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ and 127 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed.     

Short-term and interannual variability of redox-sensitive chemical parameters in hypoxic/anoxic bottom waters of the Chesapeake Bay

A combination of CTD casts, discrete bottle sampling and in situ voltammetric microelectrode profiling was used to examine changing redox conditions in the water column at a single station south of the Bay Bridge in the upper Chesapeake Bay in late July/early August, 2002–2005. Short-term (2–4 h) fluctuations in the oxic/suboxic/anoxic interface were documented using in situ voltammetric solid-state electrodes. Profiles of dissolved oxygen and sulfide revealed tidally-driven vertical fluctuations of several meters in the depth and thickness of the suboxic zone. Bottom water concentrations of sulfide, Mn²⁺ and Fe²⁺ also varied over the tidal cycle by approximately an order of magnitude. These data indicate that redox species concentrations at this site varied more due to physical processes than biogeochemical processes. Based on analysis of ADCP data, tidal currents at this station were strongly polarized, with the principal axis of tidal currents aligned with the mainstem channel. Together with the chemical data, the ADCP analysis suggests tidal flushing of anoxic bottom waters with suboxic water from north of the site. The present study is thus unique because while most previous studies have focused on processes across relatively stable redox interfaces, our data clearly demonstrate the influence of rapidly changing physical mixing processes on water column redox chemistry.Also noted during the study were interannual differences in maximum bottom water concentrations of sulfide, Mn²⁺ and Fe²⁺. In 2003, for example, heavy spring rains resulted in severe hypoxia/anoxia in June and early July. While reported storm-induced mixing in late July/early August 2003 partially alleviated the low-oxygen conditions, bottom water concentrations of sulfide, Mn²⁺ and Fe²⁺ were still much higher than in the previous year. The latter implies that the response time of the microbial community inhabiting the suboxic/anoxic bottom waters to changing redox conditions is slow compared to the time scale of episodic mixing events. Bottom water concentrations of the redox-sensitive chemical species should thus be useful as a tracer to infer prior hypoxic/anoxic conditions not apparent from ambient oxygen levels at the time of sampling.     

A linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the marginal ice zone

We present a linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the Marginal Ice Zone (the region of ocean which consists of broken ice floes). The equation is derived by two methods, the first based on Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991] and second based on Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136]. This linear Boltzmann equation, we believe, is more suitable than the equation presented in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] because of its simpler form, because it is a differential rather than difference equation and because it does not depend on any assumptions about the ice floe geometry. However, the linear Boltzmann equation presented here is equivalent to the equation in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] since it is derived from their equation. Furthermore, the linear Boltzmann equation is also derived independently using the argument in Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991]. We also present details of how the scattering kernel in the linear Boltzmann equation is found from the scattering by an individual ice floe and show how the linear Boltzmann equation can be solved straightforwardly in certain cases.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

关于修改港工钢筋混凝土规范小偏心受压构件正截面强度计算的建议

本文提出在小偏心受压构件正截面强度计算中，取消弯曲抗压强度ｆｃｍ（Ｒｗ），采用轴心抗压强度ｆｃ，这与构件的实际破坏形态相符。对小偏心受压构件正截面强度计算提出了设计建议。特别是对工程上大量应用的矩形截面对称配筋小偏压构件提示了简捷的设计方法，与以往的近似计算方法相比具有物理概念明确，精度高，方法简捷的特点。     

Seasonal DOC accumulation in the Black Sea: a regional explanation for a general mechanism

During three cruises in the Black Sea, organised in July 1995 and April–May 1997, biological and chemical parameters that can influence the carbon budget were measured in the water column on the NW shelf, particularly in the mixing zone with Danube River waters. We observed in early spring (end of April–May) conditions an important input of freshwater organisms that enhanced the microbial activity in the low salinity range. High bacterial activity regenerates nitrogen in the form of nitrates, but is also responsible for an important consumption of ammonium and phosphate, leading to a high N/P ratio and a strong deficit in phosphorus. The consequence is a limitation of phytoplankton development but also a production of carbohydrates that accumulate all along the salinity gradient. These mechanisms are responsible for a seasonal accumulation of dissolved organic carbon (DOC) that increases from 210 μM in winter to about 280 μM in summer. All this excess DOC disappears during winter, probably degraded by bacterial activity. The degradation of carbon-rich organic matter increases the phosphorus demand by bacteria bringing limitation to phytoplankton primary production.     

鲁苏榴辉岩的地球化学

以微量元素、稀土元素、Ｓｒ和Ｎｄ同位素变异特征为依据，确定鲁苏榴辉岩为多成因、多来源和多阶段，指出主要是在印支期扬子陆块与华北陆块碰撞造山作用过程中，挤入的上地幔碎片以及不同原岩类型的壳内高压变质岩碎块。燕山晚期的区域构造热事件使得某些榴辉岩的同位素体系再平衡。