黄河三角洲河道沉积规律研究Ⅱ. 建林边滩沉积作用机理

通过对建林边滩沉积物粒度分布、粒度参数及水体流变性质的分析，阐述了黄河三角洲上河道水流属于牵引流范畴，与低含沙水流无本质上的差别，并探讨沉积物搬运和沉积的基本特征。     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

底部浮泥表层推移速度分布的ADCP—GPS估测方法

ADCP对底跟踪走航观测的流速数据中包含水体底部浮泥、底沙运动信息,对比GPS定位方法算出的水体流速数据可以分离出浮泥相对于GPS定位的运动信号,从而达到对底质推移观测的目的。     

Periodic Intrusion of Cold Water from the Pacific Ocean into the Bottom Layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan

A cold-water intrusion, called a “bottom intrusion”, occurs in the lower layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan. It is an intrusion from the shelf slope region of the Pacific Ocean margin in the south of the channel. In order to reveal the fundamental characteristics of the bottom intrusion, we conducted long-term observations of water temperature at the surface and bottom layers of the channel and 15-day current observations at the bottom of the shelf-break region. The long-term water temperature data indicated that the bottom intrusion occurs repeatedly between early summer and late autumn, and its reiteration between early and mid-summer causes a local minimum of water temperature in the lower layer in mid-summer. Moreover, the data revealed that most of the bottom intrusions occurred in neap tidal periods. The current meter recorded a bottom intrusion with a speed of approximately 15 cm⋅s⁻¹. The current meter also revealed that the intruded cold water slowly retreated back to the shelf slope region after the intrusion. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Two-Dimensional Mathematical Model of Tidal Current and Sediment for Oujiang Estnary and Wenzhou Bay

A 2-D mathematical model of tidal current and sediment has been developed for the Oujiang Estuary and the WenzhouBay. This model accomodates complicated features including multiple islands, existence of turbidity, and significant differ-ence in size distribution of bed material. The governing equations for non-uniform suspended load and bed load transport arepresented in a boundary-fitted orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. The numerical solution procedures along with theirinitial conditions, boundary conditions, and movable boundary technique are presented. Strategies for computation of thecritical condition of deposition or erosion, sediment transport capacity, non-uniform bed load discharge, etc. are suggested.The model verification computation shows that, the tidal levels computed from the model are in good agreement with the fielddata at the 18 tidal gauge stations. The computed velocities and flow directions also agree well with the values measuredalong the totally 52 synchronously observed verticals distributed over 8 cross sections. The computed tidal water throughputsthrough the Huangda‘ao cross section are close to the measured data. And the computed values of bed deformation fromYangfushan to the estuary outfall and in the outer-sea area are in good agreement with the data observed from 1986 to 1992.The changes of tidal volumes through the estuary, velocities in different channels and the bed form due to the influence of thereclamation project on the Wenzhou shoal are predicted by means of this model.     

A Functional Analysis of the Benthic Macrofauna of the São Sebastião Channel (Southeastern Brazil)

Abstract.  The major problem in coastal areas of developing countries is disturbance caused by anthropogenic influence. This disturbance can be quantified by analysing the distribution and composition of marine communities using uni- and multivariate techniques and the biotic index. A study of benthic macrofauna was carried out along the São Sebastião Channel, northern coast of São Paulo State, Brazil, in an area with a submarine outfall, a petroleum terminal and a commercial harbour. Sampling was undertaken seasonally, by means of a van Veen grab (0.1 m²) at 15 oceanographic stations, from November 1993 to August 1994. A total of 392 species were identified (129 Polychaeta, 127 Mollusca, 98 Crustacea, 28 Echinodermata and 10 other phyla). The sedimentary pattern recorded for the São Sebastião Channel is very heterogeneous, influenced mainly by strong wind-driven currents, and differs from nearby shelf areas. The study area could be divided into three regions based on sediment texture and fauna: one region dominated by medium and coarse sand with low values of organic carbon; a second area where pelitic fractions were dominant with high values of organic carbon and nitrogen; and a third region characterised by fine and very fine sand, presenting intermediate organic carbon values. No temporal significant variation in abundance and species composition was found, except in autumn. The use of the 'marine Biotic Coefficient' showed the same ecological trend as the faunal abundance and demonstrated that the central continental region of the channel is affected by human activities.     

Salt Diapirs, Salt Brine Seeps, Pockmarks and Surficial Sediment Creep and Slides in the Canary Channel off NW Africa

Circular to elliptical mounds in the Canary Channel with reliefs of 75 to 375 m and diameters of 4 to 8 km partially surrounded by moats with reliefs of 25 to 75 m, were formed by piercement of the seafloor by Mesozoic evaporites. Several long gullies, < 1km wide, with abrupt terminations and pockmarks associated with these mounds were probably eroded by dense brine and hydrocarbon seeps. The salt brines that eroded the gullies were formed where salt diapirs intersect the seafloor, or in the subsurface by circulating ground water heated by igneous activity along the Canary Ridge. If the brines originated in the subsurface they reached the seafloor along faults. Displacement of the surficial sediments by sliding and creep is probably the result of the expulsion of hydrocarbons and/or vertical motion of the Mesozoic evaporites. Microtopographic features along or near the east flank of the Canary Ridge are the creation of uplift of the ridge, hydrothermal activity, mass wasting processes and turbidity currents.     

Experimental Study on Friction Coefficient Between Concrete and the Top Surface of Rubble Mound Foundation

Experimental studies on the friction coefficient between concrete and the top surface of a rubble mound foundation in China are reviewed. Through comparison of different test results, the development of this research is comprehensively analyzed. An experiment is carried out in the condition similar to prototype. The process curve of friction coefficient with the test block sliding is analyzed and a standard for determination of the friction coetfficient is defined. The variation features of the friction coefficient are analyzed on the basis of the present experimental results and other studies in China. It is shown that the friction coettfficient between concrete and the top surface of a rubble mound foundation decreases with the increase of the foundation pressure, and the friction coettqcient for a very fine leveling bed is smaller than that for a fine leveling bed.     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

福州市马尾地区第四纪地层划分及海相层分析

通过对该区钻孔剖面贡料,结合~(14)C、古地磁、孢粉及微体古生物等资料综合分析研究,对该区第四纪地层提出划分意见和自第四纪晚期以来,地层中存在着典型两期海侵所形成的海相层。