Parameterization of Wave Breaking Probability and Whitecap Coverage

1 .Introduction Wave breaking and associated whitecapping have long beeninteresting due totheir close relationto many fields of ocean study,including air-sea interaction,remote sensing,ocean engineering,aswell as wave dynamics .The breaking probabilityBan…     

基于多卫星融合资料的南海浪高时空分布特征研究

为提高对南海波浪场的认识, 采用基于多卫星融合的2009年9月～2011年11月的AVISO(Archiving, Validation and Interpretation of Satellite Oceanographic data)有效浪高格点数据对南海浪高的月变化特征进行分析, 并结合南海的波浪特征和地形特点, 将南海划分为6个海区, 讨论南海浪高的空间分布规律。研究发现南海浪高具有以下2个特征: (1)南海浪高表现为由东向西、由北往南递减: 北部深水区>北部陆架区>南海中部≈北部湾>南部陆架区>泰国湾。(2)浪高的月变化与季风的变化密不可分: 10月～次年3月(冬季风影响期间)>4月和9月(季风转换期)>5月～8月(夏季风影响期间), 1月最大, 5月最小。该研究成果对开展南海海浪的中长期预报、保障南海资源开发和军事安全等有一定的借鉴意义和参考价值。     

Long-Term Validation of Wave Height Measurements from Altimeters

Since July 1991, six altimeter missions have been launched successfully, and they have provided almost continuous wave height measurements for more than 12 years. Long-term series of wave height measurements are of major interest for climatology and oceanic wave modeling. Before using such data, the measurements have to be validated, and the homogeneity of the data from various satellites has to be checked. Significant wave height measurements from ERS, TOPEX/Poseidon, GEOSAT Follow-on, Jason-1 and ENVISAT altimeters are validated using cross-altimeter and buoy comparisons. Emphasis is put on the two recent missions Jason-1 and ENVISAT. Corrections for biases and trends are proposed for the six altimeters, allowing the generation of consistent and homogeneous data. Tests of these corrections are performed over global ocean simple statistics.     

Determination of Ocean Wave Period from Altimeter Data Using Wave-Age Concept

This study makes use of the concept of wave age in estimating ocean wave period from space borne altimeter measurements of backscattering coefficient and significant wave height. Introduction of wave age allowed better accounting of the difference between swells and wind waves. Using two years (1998 and 1999) data of TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and ocean data buoy observations in the Indian Ocean, coefficients were generated for wave period, which were subsequently tested against data for the years 2000 and 2001. The results showed the wave period accuracy to be of the order of 0.6 sec (against 1.3 sec obtained with the semiempirical approach, reported earlier).     

Implementation of Tidal Constituent Interpolation Method for the Israeli Coastline

Many ship-borne geodetic surveys at sea, such as Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS)-based sea surface height (SSH) observation, acoustic profiling of the bottom, and others, deal with a dynamic topography which undergoes several changes during the survey campaign (e.g., changes in tide, salinity and currents). Those changes affect the measurements and may causes for some variations in the results. There are several methods for tidal variations correction, being the most dominant phenomena, such as tidal zoning, tidal constituent interpolation or ocean tidal models. In this study, we have implemented the tidal constituent interpolation method for the Israeli coastline in order to assess its quality and determine whether it is suitable for use in this particular region. This paper depicts the interpolation method, discusses some difficulties in the implementation for the Israeli coast and presents results from exemplary processing. In addition, we compare the results to those obtained using global and regional tidal models.     

Cement Deep Soil Mixing (CDSM) for Solidification of Soft Estuarine Sediments

A preliminary study was conducted to determine the potential for cement deep soil mixing (CDSM) technology as a method for in-situ solidification of contaminated river and estuarine sediments. The study was conducted in Newark Bay, near the mouth of the Passaic River, New Jersey. The primary objective of the study was to evaluate the viability of CDSM for the in-situ S/S with a focus on: 1) determining the correct mix of the cement slurry, which provides rapid stabilization of the sediment matrix, 2) potential resuspension of solids during CSDM operations, 3) the effects of high organic content on the solidification process, and 4) the feasibility of using conventional dredging/extraction methods once the sediments have been stabilized and allowed to cure. The results of the study show CDSM slurry mixtures, as low as 7% in cement content, result in significant solidification and strength gain of in-situ sediments under ambient conditions. In sediments with very high organic contents (> 20%), the slurry mix would need to be adjusted to account for retardation effects of organics on cement hydration. Sediment resuspension during application was shown to be minimal at a distance of as little as 75 feet from the mixing head. Strength gains were considerable, effectively consolidating the sediment particles in a secure matrix, but not so high as to preclude extraction of solidified sediments with conventional dredging equipment. Dredged solidified sediment exhibited characteristics of a stiff glacial clay, and as such was easier to handle and transport than untreated dredged sediments. This technique has high potential to be used as an interim remedial measure prior to either extraction and decontamination/disposal or proper capping.     

赤道中、东太平洋表层流速20d振荡特征分析

通过对1985年1月1日—1986年12月31日沿赤道5个锚定浮标站表层流速资料的分析,发现在140°W与108°W之间表层流速v存在一周期约为20d的显著振荡。该振荡是由波长约2000km、以1.15-1.23m／s的波速向西传播的波动引起的。该波动被推断为第二斜压模态混合Rossby惯性重力波。带通滤波和低通滤波结果表明,以110°W测站为例,20d振荡流速构方根为21.8cm／s（纬向）和22.1cm／s（经向）;单一流速振幅的特征值为30-50cm／s,最大振幅可达70cm／s;u季节变化的均方根小于17cm／s,v无明显季节变化。年平均流速通常小于5cm／s。以上各统计量表明,20d周期波动引起的v振荡在赤道东太平洋表层流速变化中非常显著。     

问题中的理论平均波阻(英文)

利用准三维的ｆＫｄＶ方程和四区间划分法,理论给出了任意截面的直渠道中先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻和区间平均能量的时间变化率。基于ｆＫｄＶ方程系数的正则性,文中结果是Ｘｕ等人结果的一个推广。对具有相同截面面积的正方形和等腰三角形截面的渠道及在不同强迫源和强迫源速度条件下,对理论平均波阻和平均生成能的时间变化率进行了数值比较和理论预报。比较指出,理论和数值结果吻合得很好。     

畸形波作用下四立柱张力腿平台动力响应研究

介绍了畸形波生成的方法并对各种线性合成畸形波的效率进行了对比。选用改进的随机波加瞬态波的方法模拟强非线性波———"新年波"的波形。采用微元法对张力腿平台的立柱和浮筒进行离散,编制程序对张力腿平台在强非线性波作用下的耦合动力响应进行了数值模拟,重点比较分析了张力腿平台在随机波及畸形波中所受波浪力、平台动力响应、系泊系统张力特性及浪向角对平台运动的影响。研究表明:在"新年波"作用下,0°浪向时,平台在x和z方向所受波浪力较随机波增长了约1/4,纵荡、垂荡及纵摇响应值分别增加了33%,38%和12%,张力腿张力幅值增加约20%,位于平台四角的张力腿张力有所差异,相邻两根张力腿的张力差别不大,浪向角对平台运动响应、张力腿张力的影响畸形波大于随机波的作用。为今后考虑强非线性波浪影响时张力腿平台的设计提供了借鉴和参考。     

Interaction of flexural gravity waves with shear current in shallow water

In the present study, the effect of shear current on the propagation of flexural gravity waves is analyzed under the assumptions of linearized shallow-water theory. Explicit expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients associated with flexural gravity wave scattering by a step discontinuity in both water depth and current speed are derived. Further, trapping and scattering of flexural gravity waves by a jet-like shear current with a top-hat profile are examined and certain limiting conditions for the waves to exist are derived. The effects of change in water depth, current speed, incident wavelength and the angle of incidence on the group and phase velocities as well as on the reflection and transmission characteristics are analyzed through different numerical results.