Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

On the criteria for the initiation of motion in tidal inlets,deterministic and stochastic approaches

Details are given herein of the refinement and application of a three-dimensional layer integrated numerical model to predict morphological changes in tidal basins. The solution of governing differential equations, which consist of the conservation of mass and momentum for the hydrodynamics, the transport equation for the suspended sediment fluxes and the sediment mass conservation equation for the bed level changes are carried out by the use of Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) Finite Difference Method (FDM). The model includes different criteria for the initiation of motion namely Shields (1936, Application of Similarity Principles and Turbulence Research to Bed load Movement, Hydrodynamics Laboratory, California Institute of Technology, Pub. No. 167), Kolahdoozan (1999, Numerical Modelling of Geomorphological Processes in Estuarine Waters, PhD Thesis, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Bradford, Bradford, UK, 288) and Zanke (2003, On the Influence of Turbulence on the Initiation of Sediment Motion, International Journal of Sediment Research, 18(1), 17–31), to compare different aspects of flow conditions. As the flow is highly turbulent with the random nature of its components, many researchers have tried to express sediment transport processes by using stochastic approaches. In the current study both deterministic and stochastic methods are included in the numerical model to evaluate their accuracy and efficiency. To validate the numerical model results, laboratory measurements are used, with these being obtained from an earlier experimental program undertaken by the authors. Results of a short term bed level changes in a laboratory model harbor are included for the model verification purposes. Comparisons are undertaken using different criteria for the initiation of motion, with the results highlighting that the unsteadiness in the flow parameters included in the numerical model has a major effect on the bed level changes inside the harbor, in compare with the turbulence structure of the flow. The model is then applied to a real case study of the Humber Estuary, located in the UK, with comparisons being undertaken for different criteria for the initiation of motion, using both deterministic and stochastic approaches for the long term bed level predictions.     

Measurement and modeling of bed shear stress under solitary waves

Direct measurements of bed shear stresses (using a shear cell apparatus) generated by non-breaking solitary waves are presented. The measurements were carried out over a smooth bed in laminar and transitional flow regimes (~ 10⁴ < R_e < ~ 10⁵). Measurements were carried out where the wave height to water depth (h/d) ratio varied between 0.12 and 0.68; maximum near bed velocity varied between 0.16 m/s and 0.51 m/s and the maximum total shear stress (sum of skin shear stress and Froude–Krylov force) varied between 0.386 Pa and 2.06 Pa. The total stress is important in determining the stability of submarine sediment and in sheet flow regimes. Analytical modeling was carried out to predict total and skin shear stresses using convolution integration methods forced with the free stream velocity and incorporating a range of eddy viscosity models. Wave friction factors were estimated from skin shear stress at different instances over the wave (viz., time of maximum positive total shear stress, maximum skin shear stress and at the time of maximum velocity) using both the maximum velocity and the instantaneous velocity at that phase of the wave cycle. Similarly, force coefficients obtained from total stress were estimated at time of maximum positive and negative total stress and at maximum velocity. Maximum positive total shear stress was approximately 1.5 times larger than minimum negative total stress. Modeled and measured positive bed shear stresses are well correlated using the best convolution model, but the model underestimates the data by about 4%. Friction factors are dependent on the choice of normalizing using the maximum velocity, as is conventional, or the instantaneous velocity. These differ because the stress is not in phase with the velocity in general. Friction factors are consistent with previous data for monochromatic waves, and vary inversely with the square-root of the Reynolds number. The total shear stress leads the free stream fluid velocity by approximately 50°, whereas the skin friction shear stress leads by about 30°, which is similar to that reported by earlier researchers.     

Relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin: From sub-mesoscale to mesoscale

Relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin (a subregion of the Mediterranean Sea) is investigated using clusters of surface drifters deployed during two Marine Rapid Environment Assessment (MREA) experiments covering different months in 2007 and 2008, respectively. The clusters have initial radii of less than 1 km, or an order of magnitude below a typical deformation radius (approximately 10-20 km). The data set consists of 45 original pairs and more than 50 total pairs (including chance ones) in the spatial range between 1 and 200 km. Relative dispersion is estimated using the mean square separation of particle pairs and the Finite Scale Lyapunov Exponents (FSLEs). The two metrics show broadly consistent results, indicating in particular a clear exponential behaviour with an e-folding time scale between 0.5 and 1 days, or Lyapunov exponent ?? in the range of 0.7-1 days⁻¹. The exponential phase extends for 4-7 days in time and between 1 and 10-20 km in separation space. To our knowledge, this is only the third time that an exponential regime is observed in the world ocean from drifter data. This result suggests that relative dispersion in the Liguro-Provençal basin is nonlocal, namely controlled mainly by mesoscale dynamics, and that the effects of the sub-mesoscale motions are negligible in comparison. NCOM model results are used to complement the data and to quantify errors arising from the sparse sampling in the observations.     

深海环境中溢油输移扩散的初步数值模拟

通过对溢油在深海环境中的输移过程及行为特点的分析,初步建立基于拉格朗日积分法的深海溢油模型.该模型除了能够模拟油气混合物在真实深海环境中的共同输移与分离输移扩散过程,还考虑了石油溶解、气体溶解、天然气水合物形成与分解等行为变化对溢油运动轨迹的影响.应用该模型初步数值模拟了一次实际深海溢油试验,结果表明溢油在水下的空间分...     

日本海主要海峡体积输运的季节变化特征

利用变分资料同化技术对P矢量方法进行优化处理,并采用此优化后的P矢量方法优化计算了日本海环流和日本海主要海峡的体积输运.日本海的主要环流系统,比如对马暖流(TWC)及其分支,东朝鲜暖流(EKWC)和日本近岸分支(JNB),极地锋海流(PFC),和日本海中的反气旋式涡,都能够被很好地一一反映出来.另外,优化后的P矢量方法...     

伶仃洋表层沉积物特征及其泥沙运移趋势

根据伶仃洋表层沉积物的粒度分析资料,探讨表层沉积物的特征,并在此基础上应用Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析方法(GSTA模型)分析了伶仃洋表层沉积物的泥沙净输运趋势。结果表明,伶仃洋表层沉积物共有6种类型,其中以黏土质粉砂分布最广泛。受径流、潮流、波浪和陆架水入侵等多种动力作用,伶仃洋表层沉积物颗粒在北面最粗,南面次之,中间最细,东面略粗,西面略细;分选由中部向东、西两岸逐渐变好,但总体分选差;不同级配的泥沙分布和沉积特征存在差异。伶仃洋泥沙运移规律较复杂,泥沙呈现出向西南输运的总趋势;内伶仃洋四周泥沙受各种力作用,呈现出顺时针方向的环流运移,中心区域为最大浑浊带,泥沙以垂直落淤为主。淇澳岛以南至澳门半岛以东海域受粉砂和黏土向西扩散影响,泥沙向西运移。大屿海峡及外伶仃岛附近海域为高盐水入侵通道,泥沙向西北运移。     

黄河三角洲埕岛海域底质特征与泥沙净输运研究

本文通过对黄河三角洲埕岛海域146个表层样的粒度分析,表明该区有5种沉积物类型,以砂质粉砂为主体,呈斑块状分布,极细砂与粗粉砂是沉积物的主要粒级,普遍分选差。运用"粒径趋势"分析的方法,分析探讨了埕岛海域表层沉积物净输运趋势。研究区的沉积物的净输运趋势大致以12 m水深为界,深水区沉积物的净输运趋势向岸,12 m以浅海域的沉积物具有离岸的净输运趋势,说明深水区沉积物受冬季风浪作用向岸运移作用显著,12 m以浅海域的沉积物受夏季风浪作用离岸运移作用显著,沉积物运移的季节变化已成为研究区海域沉积物净运移的主要控制因素。     

Water relations and hydraulic architecture of two Patagonian steppe shrubs: Effect of slope orientation and microclimate

On a local scale, topography influences microclimate, vegetation structure and the morpho-physiological attributes of plants. We studied the effects of microclimatic differences between NE- and SW-facing slopes on the water relations and hydraulic properties of two dominant shrubs of the Patagonian steppe in Argentina (Retanilla patagonica and Colliguaja integerrima). The NE-facing slope had higher irradiance and air saturation deficits and lower soil water availability and wind speed than the SW-facing slope. Predawn and midday Ψ_L and osmotic potentials were significantly lower in shrubs on the NE-facing slope. Osmotic adjustment and more elastic cell walls helped the plants to cope with a more xeric environment on NE-facing slope. Higher water deficits on NE-facing slope were partially compensated by a higher leaf and stem water storage. While stem hydraulic efficiency did not vary between slopes, leaf hydraulic conductance was between 40% and 300% higher on the NE-facing slope. Changes observed in leaf size and in SLA were consistent with responses to mechanical forces of wind (smaller and scleromorphic leaves on SW-facing slope). Morpho-physiological adjustments observed at a short spatial scale allow maintenance of midday Ψ_L above the turgor loss point and demonstrate that leaves are more responsive to microclimatic selective pressures than stems.