Nonlinear numerical simulation on extreme-wave kinematics

A fully nonlinear numerical model based on a time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is founded to simulate the kinematics of extreme waves. In the model, the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied and a semi-mixed Euler-Lagrange method is used to track free surface; a fourth-order Runga-Kutta technique is adopted to refresh the wave elevation and velocity potential on the free surface at each time step; an image Green function is used in the numerical wave tank so that the integrations on the lateral surfaces and bottom are excluded. The extreme waves are generated by the method of wave focusing. The physical experiments are carried out in a wave flume. On the horizontal velocity of the measured point, numerical solutions agree well with experimental results. The characteristics of the nonlinear extreme-wave kinematics and the velocity distribution are studied here.     

天然气水合物的上界面——硫酸盐还原-甲烷厌氧氧化界面

定义了海域天然气水合物成矿带的上界面。指出在地球深部存在最原始的、从根本上不依靠光合作用来生存的生命系统。根据对ODP岩心样品中微生物数量的统计,海底以下沉积层中的生物数量可能占据全球原核生物总量的70%,其生物总碳量和地球表面所有植物的碳总量相当。地球内部如此巨大的生物总量应该在地壳中的气体分布等方面起着重要作用。甲烷在地壳层中广泛存在,并主要是微生物成因的。微生物产甲烷的途径主要有两个,一是二氧化碳还原,另一个是醋酸盐发酵。相应地,参与产甲烷的微生物菌群主要是产甲烷菌和食醋酸菌。甲烷在沉积层中的厌氧氧化是一个不争的事实。该过程发生在海底以下一个非常局限的区带,称为硫酸盐还原-甲烷厌氧氧化区带。通常,这个区带很窄,仅为一个面,因此,硫酸盐还原-甲烷厌氧氧化区带又称硫酸盐还原-甲烷厌氧氧化界面。这是一个基本的生物地球化学界面,在功能上它起到屏蔽甲烷向海底和大气逸散的作用,是一个巨大的甲烷汇。甲烷的厌氧氧化同样是一个由微生物介导的过程,参与此过程的微生物主要是食甲烷古菌和硫酸盐还原菌。硫酸盐还原-甲烷厌氧氧化界面在海洋沉积层中一般深可达海底以下上百米,浅可至海底。此界面为天然气水合物的上界面,该界面以上没有甲烷...     

A traversing system to measure bottom boundary layer hydraulic properties

This study describes a new convenient and robust system developed to measure benthic boundary layer properties, with emphasis placed on the determination of bed shear stress and roughness height distribution within estuarine systems by using velocity measurements. This system consisted of a remotely operated motorised traverser that allowed a single ADV to collect data between 0 and 1 m above the bed. As a case study, we applied the proposed traversing system to investigate bottom boundary layer (BBL) hydraulic properties within Coombabah Creek, Queensland, Australia. Four commonly-employed techniques: (1) Log-Profile (LP); (2) Reynolds stress (RS); (3) Turbulent Kinetic Energy (TKE); and (4) Inertial Dissipation (ID) used to estimate bed shear stresses from velocity measurements were compared. Bed shear stresses estimated with these four methods agreed reasonably well; of these, the LP method was found to be most useful and reliable. Additionally, the LP method permits the calculation of roughness height, which the other three methods do not. An average value of bed shear stress of 0.46 N/m², roughness height of 4.3 mm, and drag coefficient of 0.0054 were observed within Coombabah Creek. Results are consistent with that reported for several other silty bed estuaries.     

Higher harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged rectangular step in a wave flume

The decomposition of a monochromatic wave over a submerged plate is investigated experimentally in a wave flume. Bound and free higher harmonic modes propagating upstream and downstream the structure are discriminated by means of moving resistive probes. The first-order analysis shows a resonant behaviour linked to the ratio of the plate's width and the fundamental mode wavelength over the plate. The second-order analysis shows an energy transfer from the fundamental mode towards free harmonics propagating downstream the structure. This transfer is linked to the ratio of the width of the plate and the bound harmonic wavelength over the plate. We also performed experiments with a submerged step to compare the efficiency of both structures. The submerged plate is shown to be a more efficient breakwater than the step, at the first as well as the second-order.     

海域勘界技术的应用

制订划界方案是海域勘界工作的核心工作,包括资料分析、初拟划界草案、草案协调和协商等阶段．大多数海域界线需要分段划分．勘界实践表明,不同界线及其不同区段的界线必须运用不同的划界技术,如垂直岸线法、水道（航道）中心线法、协议线法、习惯线法、中点连线法、用海界线法及岛礁中间线法等．草案协调是勘界工作的难点,必须采取背靠背协调、面对面协商及反复沟通等方法,促成双方达成共识．     

北太平洋波浪输运和西边界流的季节变化

西边界流输运可以用Sverdrup理论推算出来.本文首先利用ECMWF再分析风场数据,计算了44年的月平均的风应力旋度及Sverdrup体积输运,在北太平洋3条纬度上对Sverdrup体积输运进行积分,得到Sverdrup体积输运的季节变化,从中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Sverdrup体积输运在冬季存在最大值,夏季存在最小值;同样利用ECMWF再分析波浪数据,计算了44a的月平均的Stokes体积输运,在相同纬度上对Stokes体积输运进行积分,得到Stokes体积输运的季节变化,从结果中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Stokes输运在冬季存在最大值,在夏季存在最小值.在本文中设定R=T_(st)/T_(sv)×100%,T_(st)为Stokes体积输运,T_(sv)为Sverdrup体积输运,发现Stokes输运和Sverdrup输运存在同位相的季节变化,并且(-R)冬季平均值在5%以上,年平均值在2%～3%左右,从而推断出波浪诱导的输运对Sverdrup输运,既对西边界流有不可忽视的贡献.     

An Efficient Model for Transient Surface Waves in Both Finite and Infinite Water Depth

A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear extreme waves in finite and infinite water-depth wave tanks. A semi-mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a higher-order boundary element method in conjunction with an image Green function is used for the fluid domain. The boundary values on the free surface are updated at each time step by a fourth-order Runga-Kutta time-marching scheme at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary by an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, an artificial damping zone is used to prevent wave reflection back into the computational domain. Using the image Green function in the whole fluid domain, the integrations on the two lateral walls and bottom are excluded. The simulation results on extreme wave elevations in finite and infinite water-depths are compared with experimental results and second-order analytical solutions respectively. The wave kinematics is also discussed in the present study.     

1998年季风爆发期南海大气边界层的日变化

在南海尚未有关于海洋大气边界层结构日变化方面的研究.研究海洋大气边界层,有利于我们更好地研究海洋表层结构变化影响机制,对发生在海洋大气边界层上的过程进行预测预报.因此了解南海海洋大气边界层的结构特征,对于我们进一步了解南海天气尺度海气相互作用有非常重要的意义.通过对1998年在南海南部(6°15′N,110°E)和南海北部(20°29′39″N,116°57′48″E)的南海季风试验中定点科考船释放一天四次的探空观测资料分析得出,季风爆发前海洋大气边界层存在规则的日变化,在中午达到深厚.季风爆发后南海北部大气边界层日变化消失,南海南部依然明显.分析表明对其日变化起重要影响的是短波辐射;潜热输送对大气边界层高度日变化影响不大.与大气边界层厚度日变化相对应,南海南部边界层内水汽日变化明显,而南海北部较不明显.     

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