模型沙干重度的变化规律及其在泥沙模型试验中的作用

模型沙干重度在动床模型试验中是影响起动流速比尺和冲淤时间比尺的重要参数，其随淤积历时、粒径变化、埋置深浅和加工方法的不同有着不同的变化规律。通过试验，结合已有的成果，对模型沙干重度受以上几种因素的影响进行了研究，并进一步分析了其变化规律在动床模型试验中的作用。     

A phase-averaged Boussinesq model with effective description of carrier wave group and associated long wave evolution

From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time.     

Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method

A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.     

Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.     

An experimental method for determining the frequency-dependent added mass and added mass moment of inertia for a floating body in heave and pitch motions

Most of the existing relevant materials have been obtained from experiments, in which evaluating the added mass at the resonant frequency corresponding to the peak of a frequency-response curve obtained from the “forced” vibration analysis is the most popular technique. In this paper, a simple experimental method was presented where the “free” vibration responses instead of the “forced” ones were used to determine the values of m_ah and I_ap. The main part of the experimental system is composed of a floating body (model) and a spring–shaft shaker. The “free” vibration of this main part was induced by imposing on it an initial displacement (and/or an initial velocity), and from the time histories of displacements information such as the “damped” natural frequencies, damping ratios, sectional added mass coefficients (C_V and C_P) were obtained. Since the displacements of the spring–shaft shaker are “translational” and those of the floating body due to pitch motions are “angular”, a technique for the transformation between the associated parameters of the two components of the main part was presented.     

Experimental Study on Stability of Breakwaters with Penetrating Box Foundations

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海面对风应力的非定常响应

针对常垂直湍流系数和变垂直湍流系数两种情况，给出了开阔静止海面对风应力的非定常响应的解析表达式，并讨论了水深，风应力强弱对响应过程的影响，尽管没有考虑风场的非定常性，但本文的结果对理解海洋对风应力的非定常响应过程具有一定的帮助，对分析海面停风后的消衰过程也具有实际意义。通过与实测资料比较，认为垂直湍流系数模式要比常垂直湍流系数模式更为合理。     

台风"杜鹃"影响期间福建大风天气的特点及成因

台风“杜鹃”影响期间，福建大风天气出现的比较早，而且范围比较大．本文通过对天气尺度的环境场、具有代表性的单站资料的对比分析，寻求大风出现的原因．还深入利用MM5模式对台风的气压场、风场、流场等进行数值模拟，分析结果表明台湾地形倒槽的形成对此次大风天气出现有着重要的作用，此外从流场分型的角度进一步分析台湾地形倒槽的形成原因．     

Calculation of Environmental Capacity of Petroleum Hydrocarbon in Jiaozhou Bay

The method has been established to calculate the environmental capacity (ECo),surplus environment capacity (SECo) of water with respect to marine petroleum hydrocarbons associated with oil (PHAOs) and the self-purification capacity (SPCo) of main self-purification process to PHAOs in the Jiaozhou Bay, China, according to the dynamic model for distribution of marine PHAOs among multiphase environments. The variation of concentration of PHAOs in the Jiaozhou Bay is well simulated by the dynamic model. Based on the model.the ECo, SECo of water with respect to PHAOs in the Jiaozhou Bay were calculated during the last 10 years under the first-class and second-class quality standard requirement, according to SPCoof main self-purification process to PHAOs. The results show that about 200 tons of PHAOs could be discharged into the Jiaozhou Bay for maintaining the first class seawater quality standard, and about 600 tons of PHAOs for the second class seawater quality standard later.