Dynamics of cobbles in the shoaling region of a surf zone

The motion of large bottom particles (cobbles/mines) was studied in the laboratory under simulated surf conditions. A series of experiments was conducted in a large wave tank, 32×0.9×1.8 m, equipped with a computer-controlled wave maker and a sloping beach. As a first step, a solid impermeable beach with artificial roughness was used in the experiments. Cobbles of different size were placed along the floor and their evolution with time was studied and compared with the model predictions. Onshore and offshore mean motions of cobbles, as well as steady oscillations with zero mean displacement, were observed for different conditions. To explain the results of observations a theoretical model was advanced. The model takes into account all main governing parameters (size and density of cobbles, bottom slope, dynamic and static friction at the bottom, background flow characteristics, etc.). Standard parameterizations were used for a pressure accelerating term, drag, lift and other nonlinear forces. For the range of parameters used in the experiments, satisfactory agreement between the measured and calculated values of the cobble displacements as a function of time was obtained. The model is practically insensitive to the vertical accelerating pressure term but sensitive to the dynamic and static friction. One of the most important variables in the model, which is known with the least accuracy, is the virtual mass coefficient for disk-shaped cobbles moving with variable velocity along a solid boundary.     

Combined tidal velocity and duration asymmetries as a determinant of water transport and residual flow in Paranaguá Bay estuary

Net transports of water, salt and suspended particulate matter (SPM) for a cross-section in front of the Paranaguá Harbour (Paranaguá Bay, Brazil) are presented for eight distinct tidal cycles. Data include measurements over single spring and neap tidal cycles, during both wet and dry seasons. The main drive forces of circulation and SPM dynamics are identified. Advective transport dominated under moderate to high vertical salinity stratification and weak currents, while mixing processes dominated under well-mixed conditions generated by high currents and low freshwater input. Under partially mixed conditions, both advective and mixing processes were important. The tide-induced residual circulation dictated the magnitude and direction of residual currents and net transports of water and salt, but not of SPM transport. The SPM dynamics was intrinsically related to cyclical processes of erosion, resuspension and deposition driven by tidal currents. The turbulent mixing intensity conditioned the vertical mixing of SPM. Resuspension and vertical mixing were conspicuous in spring cycles, while the horizontal advection preponderated in the neaps. Lags between maximum currents and SPM peak concentrations occurred, with more pronounced hysteresis during ebb periods.     

A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes

Existing, easily applicable methods to calculate the depth and height of breaking waves are hampered by two obstacles. First, the breaker depth is usually required to compute its height, and vice versa. Second, the equations take into account either the deepwater height to wavelength ratio or the sea floor slope, but not both. A simple iterative procedure is therefore proposed which incorporates both elements. For fully developed waves breaking over a nearly horizontal bottom, the breaker height and depth are also direct functions of the deepwater wavelength.     

Transport Through the Contraction Area in the Little Belt

The Great Belt, the Øresund and the Little Belt connect the central Baltic Sea and the Kattegat. A fixed station was moored in the contraction area in the Little Belt during the period 18–28 July 1995, measuring temperature, salinity and current in two levels, while discharge was measured by the RVDana. The composite Froude number calculated at the fixed station shows that the two layer flow through this area was most often supercritical. The discharges were satisfactorily related to the currents measured at the fixed station, and time-series of transports through the Little Belt were established. When compared to the transports through the Øresund the water transport ratio (Øresund:Little Belt) was found to be 4·4, while the salt transport ratio was found to be 3·0. The resistance of the Little Belt, when considering the differences in sea level from Gedser to Hornbæk, was 1839×10⁻¹² s² m⁻⁵. On the basis of water level and surface salinity measurements made during the period 1931–76, a net discharge of 2300 m³ s⁻¹and a net salt transport of 36 tonnes s⁻¹through the Little Belt from the central Baltic Sea were found.     

Stochastic Analysis Method of Sea Environment Simulated by Numerical Models

1 .IntroductionNumericalmodelsmostwidelyusedforseaenvironmentandsedimenttransportfocusonsolvingseriesofdifferentialequations .Theinputandoutputofanumericalmodelareconsideredasdecisivefactors .Butinrealitythecausesofnaturaleventssuchasmeteorological,astronomical,oceanograph ic ,geomorphologicandgeophysicalfactorsarerandom .Therearemanyuncertaintiesinvolvedininputfactorsinnumericalmodels .Correspondinglytheoutputsofnumericalmodelsarealsorandom .There fore ,theoutputparametersofnumericalmodelsca…     

Formation, Distribution and Volume Transport of the North Pacific Intermediate Water Studied by Repeat Hydrographic Observations

In order to examine the formation, distribution and transport of North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW), repeated hydrographic observations along several lines in the western North Pacific were carried out in the period from 1996 to 2001. NPIW formation can be described as follows: (1) Oyashio water extends south of the Subarctic Boundary and meets Kuroshio water in intermediate layers; (2) active mixing between Oyashio and Kuroshio waters occurs in intermediate layers; (3) the mixing of Oyashio and Kuroshio waters and salinity minimum formation around the potential density of 26.8σ_θ proceed to the east. It is found that Kuroshio water flows eastward even in the region north of 40°N across the 165°E line, showing that Kuroshio water extends north of the Subarctic Boundary. Volume transports of Oyashio and Kuroshio components (relative to 2000 dbar) integrated in the potential density range of 26.6–27.4σθ along the Kuroshio Extension across 152°E–165°E are estimated to be 7–8 Sv (10⁶ m³s⁻¹) and 9–10 Sv, respectively, which is consistent with recent work. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

滨海输沙若干测定法及数模计算述评

本文介绍了沙质海岸滨岸输沙的一些测定方法和数模计算的研究现状，并评述其使用条件、方法可靠性的应用前景，为开展海洋泥沙运动和岸滩演变的研究工作提供新思路与借鉴。     

黄河下游泥沙输沙率的预测

利用黄河利津站的精密水文泥沙测量结果对一些常用水流泥沙输沙率公式进行验证表明，Ｖａｎ Ｒｉｊｎ公式最适合于黄河泥沙输沙率的预测，对公式做部分校正则可以大大提高其预测能力。