Application of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model to shallow water recurrence effects in random waves

The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.     

Coupling winds to ocean surface currents over the global ocean

A Wind stress–Current Coupled System (WCCS) consisting of the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM) and an improved wind stress algorithm based on Donelan et al. [Donelan, W.M., Drennan, Katsaros, K.B., 1997. The air–sea momentum flux in mixed wind sea and swell conditions. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 27, 2087–2099] is developed by using the Earth System Modeling Framework (ESMF). The WCCS is applied to the global ocean to study the interactions between the wind stress and the ocean surface currents. In this study, the ocean surface current velocity is taken into consideration in the wind stress calculation and air–sea heat flux calculation. The wind stress that contains the effect of ocean surface current velocity will be used to force the HYCOM. The results indicate that the ocean surface velocity exerts an important influence on the wind stress, which, in turn, significantly affects the global ocean surface currents, air–sea heat fluxes, and the thickness of ocean surface boundary layer. Comparison with the TOGA TAO buoy data, the sea surface temperature from the wind–current coupled simulation showed noticeable improvement over the stand-alone HYCOM simulation.     

A two-dimensional finite volume hydrodynamic model for coastal areas: Model development and validation

A two dimensional implicit finite volume scheme for solving the shallow-water equations is developed. The effects of the Coriolis force, surface wind stress, and waves are included. A non-uniform rectilinear forward staggered grid is used with Cartesian coordinates. The time integration is performed using the Euler implicit technique. The convective flux is treated using the deferred correction method. The viscous terms are discretized using a second order central difference approximation. The SIMPLE (Semi-Implicit Method for Pressure-Linked Equations) algorithm is used for coupling the velocity components and the water elevation gradient for the water level correction. The system of equations is solved sequentially using the Strongly Implicit Procedure (SIP). To simulate wave driven current, a phase averaged wave model is used first to simulate wave transformation and calculate radiation stresses. The performance of the developed model is validated for different sources of external forces and different combinations of boundary conditions. The validation cases include tidal circulation in a harbor and wave induced currents behind a breakwater parallel to the coastline. The model is finally applied to simulate the flow pattern in a closed artificial lagoon and along the coastline near Damietta Port located along the Northern coast of Egypt. Results of the developed model agree well with the published results for the considered cases.     

Biometric,microstructural, and high-resolution trace element studies in Crassostrea gigas of Cantabria (Bay of Biscay,Spain): Anthropogenic and seasonal influences

Living Crassostrea gigas oysters of different ages and sizes were collected in three estuaries of Cantabria (Bay of Biscay, Spain): San Vicente de la Barquera Estuary, Santander Bay, and Marismas de Santoña Estuary. The main objective was to determine different shell responses to variable environmental parameters. A shell morphological study, based on three biometric indices, indicates that oysters of Santander Bay have two significant shell anomalies: abnormal thickening of the right valve and loss of vital cavity volume. These shell abnormalities are related with the presence in these waters of the chemical tributyltin. In the other two estuaries, the oysters show no detectable anomalies. Four shell microstructures have been distinguished: Regular Simple Prismatic, Regular Foliated, cone-Complex Cross Foliated, and Chalk. In Santander Bay oysters, the Chalk forms a “root-type” framework, whereas in the other two estuaries it forms a more compact microstructure. It is proposed that exposure to tributyltin has produced this modification. High-spatial-resolution geochemical transects have been carried out on the Regular Foliated microstructure in the umbo region in order to evaluate the distribution of Mg, Sr, and Na. The elements analysed exhibit clear cyclic variations in San Vicente de la Barquera Estuary and Marismas de Santoña Estuary oysters, related with seasonal periods, and characterised by broad maxima during months in which the waters are warmer and have higher salinity. These patterns are buffered in Santander Bay oysters. Our results demonstrate that biometric, microstructural, and high-resolution trace element studies in oyster shells can provide information about contaminants and seasonal variations in the estuarine environment.     

夏季长江口外海区域上升流现象的数值研究

基于Blumberg等(1996)的ECOMSED模式,对长江口外海区域夏季的上升流现象进行了数值模拟.模式综合考虑径流,风应力,环流,热通量和M_2,S_2,K_1,O_1四个主要分潮的作用,从而提高长江口外海区域上升流模拟的准确性和可靠性,并通过各种控制实验分析了其动力机制,进一步说明本区域影响上升流的主要因子.数值实验表明,长江口外水下河谷的南边(杭州湾口门中心东侧),上升流主要是由向北流动的台湾暖流通过底Ekman效应和陆坡的抬升共同作用产生的.夏季偏南风对长江口外水下河谷西侧上升流的产生有一定影响,但作用不大.此外,潮汐潮流对上升流的产生也起着一定的作用,但在本文关注的上升流区潮作用影响不大.     

东山湾潮流动力特征研究

东山湾是福建重要的天然良港．根据2008年8月的3个潮次11个测站实测潮流资料结合历史调查资料分析东山湾的潮流性质、运动形式、涨落潮流特性、余流等特征．结果表明,东山湾主要属于往复式的规则半日潮流,潮流作用较强,其口门处和湾内水道上的实测最大流速一般大于100cm／s．持续时间较长的风对东山湾的余流较大的影响,大潮期间湾内存在明显的反时针的水平余环流系统．     

基于X波段雷达的表层流估计算法初步研究

对X渡段雷达记录的连续雷达图像进行分析,能够获取海浪和表层流信息.不存在海洋表层流情况下,雷达图像的谱能量分布在静水频散关系确定的平面上,而雷达相时海浪场的运动(比如表层流)使雷达图像的谱能量分布产生多普勒频移,对此频移进行最小二秉拟合.可以确定表层流的大小和方向.     

The effect of current and wave on whitecap coverage via relative speed： the Atlantic Ocean case

Whitecapping plays an important role in many air-sea exchange and upper ocean processes. Traditionally, whitecap coverage is parameterized as a function of wind speed only. At present, the relative speed of ocean current to wind is considered to be important in the air-sea exchange parameterization which is the function of wind speed only. In this paper, the effects of ocean surface velocity (current velocity and wave induced velocity) and the wave parameters on whitecap coverage through relative speeds are investigated, by applying a 2-parameter whitecap coverage model to the Atlantic Ocean. It is found that the impacts of both current and wave on whitecap coverage are considerable in the most part of the Atlantic Ocean. It is interesting that the effect of wave is more significant than that of current.     

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北太平洋波浪输运和西边界流的季节变化

西边界流输运可以用Sverdrup理论推算出来.本文首先利用ECMWF再分析风场数据,计算了44年的月平均的风应力旋度及Sverdrup体积输运,在北太平洋3条纬度上对Sverdrup体积输运进行积分,得到Sverdrup体积输运的季节变化,从中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Sverdrup体积输运在冬季存在最大值,夏季存在最小值;同样利用ECMWF再分析波浪数据,计算了44a的月平均的Stokes体积输运,在相同纬度上对Stokes体积输运进行积分,得到Stokes体积输运的季节变化,从结果中发现,在向赤道流动的方向上,Stokes输运在冬季存在最大值,在夏季存在最小值.在本文中设定R=T_(st)/T_(sv)×100%,T_(st)为Stokes体积输运,T_(sv)为Sverdrup体积输运,发现Stokes输运和Sverdrup输运存在同位相的季节变化,并且(-R)冬季平均值在5%以上,年平均值在2%～3%左右,从而推断出波浪诱导的输运对Sverdrup输运,既对西边界流有不可忽视的贡献.