Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.     

Numerical Simulation of Residual Circulation due to Bottom Rouglmess Variability Under Tidal Flows in A Semi-Enclosed Bay

Nowadays there are some chronic serious environmental problems, such as eutrophication, blue tide and so on, in a complicated coastal zone or a semi-enclosed bay, because the water exchanges between an inner bay and an outer sea is weak compared with the supply of contaminant. Under this situation, a method to improve the water quality by 3-dimensional small unsymmetrical structures has been proposed by Komatsu et al. In this paper, several numerical simulations of the tidal current and concentration for various arrangements of bottom roughness in a semi-enclosed model bay are carfled out with a depth-averaged 2-D numerical model. The model is solved by the hybrid finite analytic method with nonstaggered grid. And the SIMPLES algorithm with Rhie and Chow＇ s momentum interpolation technique is used for the simulation. The effect of Komatsu＇ s method for water purification is examined by numerical simulation. The result of numerical experiment indicates that it is possible to generate a new tidal residual current and to activate a tidal exchange by bottom roughness arrangement only.     

Coastal Upwelling Activity on the Pacific Shelf of the Baja California Peninsula

High primary productivity on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula is usually related to coastal upwelling activity that injects nutrients into the euphotic zone in response to prevailing longshore winds (from the northwest to north). The upwelling process has maximum intensity from April to June, with the coastal upwelling index varying from 50 to 300 m³/s per 100 m of coastline. Along the entire coast of the peninsula, the upwelling intensity changes in accordance with local wind conditions and bottom topography. Spatial variability can also be modulated by the influence of mesoscale meanders of the California Current. We have identified the seasonal and synoptic variability of upwelling signatures on the Baja California shelf, using averaged monthly and weekly sea surface temperature (SST) distributions obtained from remote sensing imagery from the Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer in the period from 1996 to 2001. Analysis of SST distribution and direct experimental data on temperature and nutrient concentration shows that the areas with the coldest SST anomalies were closely related to the bottom slope, shelf width, and coastline orientation relating to wind direction. We also assume that the nutrient transport into the coastal lagoons may be forced by the coupling of coastal upwelling and tidal pumping of surface waters into the lagoon system. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。     

石榴石橄榄岩的熔融实验及其地质意义

在20×10~9Pa和25×10~9Pa条件下,对石榴石橄榄岩进行的14次高温高压熔融实验研究表明,在1600℃时石榴石橄榄岩开始熔融(初熔),熔体中的SiO_2>70％,Na_2O+K_2O>8％,类似于A型花岗岩成分。本实验为地幔花岗岩的成因提供了证据。     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

Calculating Method and Verification of Wave Pressure Distribution on the Breast Wall of Mound Breakwater

In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.     

透空式水平板波浪上托力分布

通过系列模型试验，对波浪上托力沿板宽分布进行了详细分析，提出对于透空式平板结构，发生较大冲击压强或上托力的分布主要分为均布型和局部冲击型两类，由此得到压强分布的计算公式。大量试验资料表明，该公式与实验值有着较好的一致性。     

动荷载作用下海底粉土的孔压响应及其动强度

本文选用近海分布较广的粉土为研究对象 ,利用室内动三轴试验结果 ,找出动荷载作用下粉土的动应力应变关系 ,分析模拟波浪荷载作用下粉土中的孔压响应、临界循环次数 ,确定波浪作用下粉土的应力状态、破坏临界循环次数 ,判断不同深度处的粉土发生液化的可能性及发生液化所需要的时间 ;研究粉土在动荷载作用下的强度降低 ,为海上工程设计和施工提供科学依据。     

低围压水平下砂的排水行为(英文)

采用干样沉降法制备样品 ,选用静三轴仪对松砂和密砂样在 10 k Pa至 10 0 k Pa的低围压下的排水行为进行了实验研究 ,并对实验结果作了橡皮膜校正 ,在围压为 10 k Pa的密砂实验中 ,轴向应力的校正值可达到 12 %。实验研究表明低围压下松砂的剪胀性非常明显 ,且存在剪应力极值 ;围压越低 ,松砂和密砂的剪应力极值越小 ,达到最大剪应力所对应的剪应变越小。同时还表明低围压范围内相对密度不同 ,砂的应力应变特性不同 ;此外 ,低围压下砂的内摩擦角高于高围压下的值 ,从而在工程上应重视低围压水平下砂土工程参数的合理选取