Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.     

Seasonal Variability of Near-Surface Heat Budget of Selected Oceanic Areas in the North Tropical Indian Ocean

The results obtained from an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM), the Modular Ocean Model 2.2, forced with the National Center for Environmental Prediction/National Center for Atmospheric Research reanalysis data, and observational data have been utilized to document the climatological seasonal cycle of the upper ocean response in the Tropical Indian Ocean. We address the various roles played by the net surface heat flux and the local and remote ocean dynamics for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget in the Tropical Indian Ocean. The investigation is based in seven selected boxes in the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Equatorial Indian Ocean. The changes of basin-wide heat budget of ocean process in the Arabian Sea and the Western Equatorial Indian Ocean show an annual cycle, whereas those in the Bay of Bengal and the Eastern Equatorial Indian Ocean show a semi-annual cycle. The time tendency of heat budget in the Arabian Sea depends on both the net surface heat flux and ocean dynamics while on the other hand, that in the Bay of Bengal depends mainly on the net surface flux. However, it has been found that the changes of heat budget are very different between western and eastern regional sea areas in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, respectively. This difference depends on seasonal variations of the different local wind forcing and the different ocean dynamics associated with ocean eddies and Kelvin and Rossby waves in each regional sea areas. We also discuss the comparison and the connection for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget among their regional sea areas. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

北部湾三维风生流及密度流模拟

将Casulli差分格式引入三维物理海洋模型计算，模拟了北部湾风生流及密度流。模拟结果表明，夏季西南季风在北部湾导致一个顺时针环流，夏季海水密度梯度导致一个逆时针方向的环流，密度流明显强于风生流；冬季东北寒潮导致一个逆时针环流。模拟结果不支持北部湾夏季为一顺时针环流、冬季为逆时针环流的传统结论，而支持终年为逆时针环流的观点。     

On the adequacy of second-order models to predict abnormal waves

The paper is intended to extend the investigations about the nature of abnormal waves that have been reported in the work of Guedes Soares et al. (Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea states. Applied Ocean Research 25, [337–344]). The same dataset gathered at the oil platform North Alwyn in the North Sea during the November storm in 1997 is used along with the time series from the Draupner platform, in which an abnormal wave occurred. The data are reanalyzed from the viewpoint of the applicability of second-order models to fit large waves. The observed results confirm that the second-order approximation is not adequate to describe highly asymmetric and abnormal waves.     

北方地区秋季日本对虾室内高密度精养的试验

为充分利用每年的8月以后直到翌年3月份都处于休闲状态的育苗场设施资源，笔者于1999年8月在河北黄骅进行日本对虾室内高密度精养的试验。在水温23－28℃、盐度28－32下，8月27日放苗，11月24日收成，养殖时间87d，单位水体产量平均为0．818kg/m^3，平均存活率为50．1％，旬生长率平均为0．75cm，成虾体长平均8cm，饵料系数为2．51，投入与产出比为2．5，平均单位水体创利63．83元／m^3，其结果说明本养殖模式不仅是可行的，而且具有利用率和效益高、实用性强的优点。本文还就相关问题进行了讨论。     

影响萼花臂尾轮虫种群增长的生态学因子的研究：温度和饵料密度的影响

本文研究了在5个温度梯度和4个饵料密度的20个试验组合下，萼化臂尾轮虫（Brachionuscalyciflorus）的种群增长规律。结果表明，该轮虫实验种群的最适温度范围是28—32℃，临界高温是36－40℃；最适饵料密度是45－65×106个／ml。这两个生态因子的最佳组合是温度32℃，饵料密度为65×106个／ml，此时，种群达最大密度3．4×103个／ml。     

Experimental survey of the hydrodynamic performance of a small spar buoy

The objective in this experimental work is to evaluate the capability of several cylindrical buoys to follow and measure waves. Eleven configurations have been studied, eight among which were furnished with disks of different diameters at the waterline. The experiments took place in the test basin at ISITV. On the one hand, we have obtained a set of transfer coefficients for each frequency and each configuration in regular waves. On the other hand, we have determined the corresponding transfer functions, then we have used the latter to measure irregular waves. The time signals as measured by the buoys with and without corrections have been compared with wave gage measurements and subjected to a wave-by-wave analysis. The results allow the conclusion that the buoy with a medium size disk constitutes the best compromise. In fact, it permits the buoy to follow the free surface while minimizing parasitic motions.     

Aspects of Deep Ocean Mixing

The turbulent motions responsible for ocean mixing occur on scales much smaller than those resolved in numerical simulations of oceanic flows. Great progress has been made in understanding the sources of energy for mixing, the mechanisms, and the rates. On the other hand, we still do not have adequate answers to first order questions such as the extent to which the thermohaline circulation of the ocean, and hence the earth's climate, is sensitive to the present mixing rates in the ocean interior. Internal waves, generated by either wind or flow over topography, appear to be the principle cause of mixing. Mean and eddy flows over topography generate internal lee waves, while tidal flows over topography generate internal tides. The relative importance of these different internal wave sources is unknown. There are also great uncertainties about the spatial and temporal variation of mixing. Calculations of internal tide generation are becoming increasingly robust, but we do not know enough about the subsequent behavior of internal tides and their eventual breakdown into turbulence. It does seem, however, that most internal tide energy flux is radiated away from generation sites as low modes that propagate over basin scales. The mechanisms of wave-wave interaction and topographic scattering both act to transfer wave energy from low modes to smaller dissipative scales. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Tectonic core of a sedimentary drift: a potential ridge propagation feature beneath the Blake Outer Ridge

The Blake Outer Ridge is a 480–kilometer long linear sedimentary drift ridge striking perpendicular to the North American coastline. By modeling free-air gravity anomalies we tested for the presence of a crustal feature that may control the location and orientation of the Blake Outer Ridge. Most of our crustal density models that match observed gravity anomalies require an increase in oceanic crustal thickness of 1–3 km on the southwest side of the Blake Outer Ridge relative to the northeast side. Most of these models also require 1–4 km of crustal thinning in zone 20–30 km southwest of the crest of the Blake Outer Ridge. Although these features are consistent with the structure of oceanic fracture zones, the Blake Outer Ridge is not parallel to adjacent known fracture zones. Magnetic anomalies suggest that the ocean crust beneath this feature formed during a period of mid-ocean ridge reorganization, and that the Blake Outer Ridge may be built upon the bathymetric expression of an oblique extensional feature associated with ridge propagation. It is likely that the orientation of this trough acted as a catalyst for sediment deposition with the start of the Western Boundary Undercurrent in the mid-Oligocene.