Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope

Many investigations about the direct measurements of velocities to clarify the internal mechanism of the breaker have been carried out as a result of recent progress in the measuring techniques.This research attempts to clarify the breaking wave transformation system on a slope by an experiment and numerical analysis. In an experiment, the velocities in the surf zone were measured directly using an electromagnetic current meter, and the space distribution characteristic of the vorticity ω = (∂u/∂y − ∂u/∂x) and the skewness γ = (∂u/∂y + ∂u/∂x) were examined. Also, occurrence situations of the vortices at the time of water mass inrush were measured by video tape recorder (VTR) image processing. However, because the breaker is a violent phenomenon that is entrained with plentiful bubbles, the extent to which we can clarify breaker transformation in experiments is limited. Numerical simulations are substituted for experiments as a method to clarify breaker transformation.In numerical analysis, finite amplitude wave analysis based on the potential theory (non-viscous fluid) is possible before wave breaking; however, the analysis must take into account the viscous fluid after breaking. So, we use the Reynolds equations to develop a numerical simulation system of the breaker transformation on a sloping bottom. The numerical energy dissipation model of the breaker was compared to the experimental results, and a modified Simplified Marker and Cell (SMAC) method is presented. The internal characteristics of the breaker transformation are described using application examples.     

Wave interaction with partially immersed twin vertical barriers

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially immersed twin vertical barriers and the water surface fluctuations in between the barriers were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves of wide ranges of wave heights and periods, nine different immersions of the barriers and a constant water depth were used for the investigation. The coefficient of transmission, and the coefficient of reflection were obtained from the measurements and coefficient of energy dissipation is estimated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found in general that the twin barrier is better in reducing the coefficient of transmission and increasing the coefficient of dissipation in random waves than with the regular waves, especially for increasing incident wave energy levels. The coefficient of transmission reduces significantly with the increased relative water depth. Increase of relative water depth from 0.09 to 0.45 resulted in reduction of transmission coefficient from 0.65 to 0.05. It is possible to achieve a transmission coefficient less than 0.20 for six immersion configurations with relative depth of immersions of the barrier less than (0.28, 0.43), especially in the region closer to deep water conditions. Coefficient of dissipation ranging from 0.65 to 0.85 can be obtained due to random wave interaction.     

Wave interaction with T-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially submerged ‘T'-type breakwaters (Fig. 1) were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves, with wide ranges of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersions of the ‘T'-type breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, coefficient reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l is calculated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found that the coefficient of transmission generally reduces with increased wave steepness and increased relative water depth, d/L. This breakwater is found to be effective closer to deep-water conditions. K_t values less than 0.35 is obtained for both normal and high input wave energy levels, when the horizontal barrier of the T type breakwater is immersed to about 7% of the water depth. This breakwater is also found to be very efficient in dissipating the incident wave energy to an extent of about 65% (i.e. K_l>0.8), especially for high input wave energy levels. The wave climate in front of the breakwater is also measured and studied.

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Fig. 1. Schematic view of the T-type breakwater.     

Ocean wave transmission by submerged reef—A physical model study

Ocean waves can be destructive as steeper waves due to their high energy eroding the sandy beaches. During storm surge or high tide, the water level rises and if large waves occur, they will break closer to the beach, releasing enormous amount of energy resulting in strong currents. This causes heavy loss of beach material due to large-scale erosion. If these waves are made to break prematurely and away from the beach, they can be attenuated so as to reduce beach erosion. The reef, which is a homogeneous pile of armour units without a core, breaks the steeper ocean waves, dissipates a major portion of their energy and transmits attenuated waves. This paper experimentally investigates the armour stone stability of the submerged reef and the influence of its varying distance from shore and crest width on ocean wave transmission.     

关于波浪破碎特性的研究

有关波浪破碎问题的研究是海岸工程界十分关注的课题。本文列举了前人有关波浪破碎特性方面的研究成果；分析了波浪破碎前后波高的变化规律，作出了适当的假定；并考虑了动床海滩坡度、底摩擦以及紊动对波浪破碎特性的影响。应用波动能量耗散率理论，并结合孤立波理论的有关公式，作者推导了计算动床海滩上破碎指标ｒ_ｂ的公式，并进而给出破碎水深ｈ_ｂ与破碎波高Ｈ_ｂ的计算公式。通过不同规模实验水槽的资料验证表明，这组计算式具有广泛的实用性。     

Experimental Study on Rectangular Floating Breakwaters

This paper proposes ten types of improved floating breakwaters for experiment with regular waves, based on the experience in the development and manufacture of existing floating breakwaters both at home and abroad, and on the results of experimental studies on the hydraulic characteristics of several types of floating breakwaters. The wave heights before and behind the breakwaters are measured, the movements of floating breakwaters are observed and the chain forces of the floating breakwaters are measured. The paper studies and compares the hydraulic characteristics of the improved rectangular floating breakwaters of which the internal and external structures and their installation methods are changed. Finally the optimal type of structure is selected through experiments.     

The tidal regime of Shark Bay, Western Australia

A non-linear hydrodynamic model is used to describe the tidal dynamics of Shark Bay, Western Australia. The model is forced by tidal elevations generated by M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ constituent data at the open boundaries. The absence of suitable boundary data required a ‘calibration’ of the boundary condition against the known constituent data from within the model domain. The model provides a good match to the available field data, and allows the surface-level and current response to be resolved over the entire domain. Due to a near quarter-wave resonance of the semi-diurnal tide along the eastern Hopeless Reach, which increases the semi-diurnal tide by a factor of 2, the tidal characteristics on each of the Reaches are different: on the eastern Hopeless Reach the tides are mainly semi-diurnal while on the western Freycinet Reach the tides are mainly diurnal. The tidal range is also higher along Hopeless Reach. Tidal harmonics, generated by non-linearity, are important in the shallow regions. The tidal wave is shown to propagate as a progressive wave into the Bay. Substantial phase-lag, attenuation and dissipation occur over the Faure Sill, a major shallow region of the eastern reach of the Bay. Non-linear generation of the M₄ and MS₄ tides is also significant in this region. Depth-averaged residual currents are presented, which show a tidally generated circulation that is enhanced in regions of complex topography. Estimates of tidal dissipation indicate that although the total dissipation is small on a global scale, the areal average is comparable with the Gulf of Carpentaria and approximately one-quarter of the value estimated for the Patagonian Shelf.     

Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Profile Evolution and Energy Dissipation for Internal Soliton Transmitting over Different Submarine Ridges

1 .IntroductionWhile surface solitary waves arefoundin many physical phenomena (Chouand Shih,1996 ;Chouand Quyang,1999 ;Chouet al .,2003 ; Chenet al .,2004 ; Wang,2004 ;Tsenget al .,2005) ,internal solitary waves (ISWs) have been observed since the beginning of the 20th century.In fact ,some internal waves have alarge enoughamplitudeto cause consequence onthe surface .Hence obser-vation of the oceansurface may helpto detect the activities of internal waves . We require observationsthrough…     

Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Based on the time-dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation. The wave height of regular and irregular waves is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation considering the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. Comparison of numerical results with experimental data shows that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable. The effects of the wave breaking coefficient on the breaking point and the distribution of wave height after breaking are discussed through the study of a specific experimental topography.