近岸波生流运动三维数值模拟及验证

开发建立了近岸波生流运动三维数值计算模式。模式中,引入了三维时均剩余动量、破波表面水滚、波浪水平与垂向紊动作为主要驱动力,同时考虑了波流共同作用的底部剪切力。推导了可综合反映底坡、能量传递率和密度影响的水滚能量传输方程;将Larson-Kraus的二维波浪水平紊动系数表达式拓展至三维。采用大量实测数据和文献资料测试验证了所建模式,表明所建模式可有效模拟波浪增减水、底部离岸流、沿岸流、裂流、堤后环流等不同维度的波生流现象。此外,研究也表明破波水滚效应可解释波生流峰值向岸推移的物理现象,从而在模拟中不能忽略;破波带内沿岸流速垂向较为均匀的现象与波浪附加垂向紊动有关。     

辐射应力对台风风暴潮预报的影响和数值研究

台风过程期间,风暴潮和海浪是相伴相生的,相互作用的.波致辐射应力对于近岸风暴增、减水起着十分重要的作用,传统的海浪模式计算辐射应力耗时较多,不能满足业务化预报的要求.根据已有波浪辐射应力的理论表达式,经过严密的数学推导,适当的简化处理,提出了一个较为简单的波浪辐射应力表达式,并将其应用到业务化风暴潮数值预报模式中去,通...     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

水深对超大型FPSO波浪载荷响应影响试验研究

随着超大型浮式生产储卸油装置FPSO（floating production storing and offloading）在渤海浅水海域的广泛应用,水深对FP—SO波浪载荷响应的影响问题突现出来。对缩尺比为1：100的三模块分节模型进行了水深对超大型FPSO波浪载荷响应影响的试验研究,试验结果表明水深对FPSO波浪诱导载荷的影响很大。     

Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach

1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…     

黄河口埕岛海域粉土波致孔压现场监测

波浪会对海床产生反复的作用力,由此引起的土体颗粒间孔隙水压力变化是造成土体液化的主要原因。使用自行研发的孔压监测设备,对黄河口埕岛海域易液化区海底孔压进行了长时间、高精度的观测,并对孔隙水压力、波高以及潮位间的关系进行分析。监测结果显示,本次监测条件下波浪最大作用深度介于0.5～1.5 m之间,超过该作用深度后孔压无明显变化。土体内部孔隙水压力的变化主要由潮位和波高决定,潮位的作用可使孔压缓慢平滑的变化且对超孔压无影响;波高的作用可使孔压快速、剧烈地振荡并导致超孔压的出现。     

浪致混合对亚热带冬季海洋混合强度的影响

上层海洋在全球气候系统中起着至关重要的作用。对上层海洋层结及混合的模拟偏差一直是海洋和气候数值模式发展中悬而未决的问题。本文首先评估了CMIP5中45个模式对上层海洋层结模拟的偏差,确认了冬季亚热带地区海洋模式垂向混合偏强。随后,基于自然资源部第一海洋研究所地球系统模式(FIO-ESM v1.0),分别开展了1986?2005年期间包含和关闭海浪垂向混合情况下的数值实验,分析浪致混合对亚热带冬季海洋混合强度模拟的影响及机制。发现浪致混合使得气候模式中亚热带海域冬季的海洋层结增强,增强的层结使上层海洋更加稳定。首次揭示了增加浪致混合反而降低了海洋总体的垂向混合率:浪致混合使北半球冬季亚热带海域混合率从无浪实验的227 cm2/s降低到有浪实验的178 cm2/s,降低了21.6%;南半球冬季亚热带海域混合率从无浪实验的189 cm2/s降低到有浪实验的165 cm2/s,降低了12.7%。进一步分析发现,浪致混合主要是通过增加冬季亚热带海域上层海洋的热含量从而强化了海洋的层结,最终改善了气候模式对上层海洋混合的模拟。     

Modeling of suspended sediment transport with waveinduced longshore current in Huanghe (Yellow) River Delta

A three-dimensional suspended sediment model(SED)developed by the present authors is coupled with the combinatorial model of COHERENS(Luyten et al.,1999) (the three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamical-ecological model for Regional and Shelf Seas) and SWAN(Holthuijsen et al.,2004) (the third generation wave model).SWAN is regarded as a subroutine of COHERENS and gets time-and space-varying current velocity and surface elevation from COHERENS.COHERENS gets time-and space-varying wave relevant parameters provided by SWAN.Effects of wave on current are applied in bottom shear stress,wave-induced depth-dependent radiation stress and surface drag coefficient calculation.At the same time,the damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS.So the sediment model SED has feed back on circulation model COHERENS.The SED obtains current as sociated parameters from COHERENS.Then a couple dhydrodynamic-sediment model COHERENS-SED being able to account for interaction between wave and current is obtained.COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in the Huanghe River delta.In terms of simulation results,there is obvious diffierence between top and bottom layer of wave-induced longshore current.The values of time series of sediment concentration gotten by COHERENS-SED have,generally,an accepted agreement extent with measurement.Significant wave heights and wave periods obtained by COHERENS-SED show that wave simulation case with current’s effect can give better agreement extent with measurement than case without current’s effect.In the meantime,suspended sediment concentration distributing rule obtained by COHERENS-SED is similar to former researches and measurement.     

Influence of the earth rotation on the interfacial wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress in a two-layer fluid system

Interfacial waves and wave-induced tangential stress are studied for geostrophic small amplitude waves of two-layer .uid with a top free surface and a .at bottom. The solutions were deduced from the general form of linear .uid dynamic equations of two-layer .uid under the f -plane approximation, and wave-induced tangential stress were estimated based on the solutions obtained. As expected, the solutions derived from the present work include as special cases those obtained by Sun et al. (2004. Science in China, Ser. D, 47(12): 1147–1154) for geostrophic small amplitude surface wave solutions and wave-induced tangential stress if the density of the upper layer is much smaller than that of the lower layer. The results show that the interface and the surface will oscillate synchronously, and the in.uence of the earth’s rotation both on the surface wave solutions and the interfacial wave solutions should be considered.     

Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.