波流边界层水沙运动数值模拟——II.泥沙运动模拟

为解析波流边界层内泥沙运动,建立了基于水动力-泥沙-床面互馈过程的波流边界层1DV泥沙数学模型,可用于模拟不同床面形态下粉沙-沙的含沙量过程。床面形态模块提供床面形态类型和相应参数;给出了平底和沙波床面粗糙高度和泥沙扩散系数的确定方法;采用了适宜粉沙及沙的制约沉速、底部参考浓度和起动剪切应力等公式;引入含沙量层化效应和制约沉降反映水动力与泥沙之间的相互影响。水槽试验资料验证表明,建立的模型较好地模拟了不同床面不同波流组合条件下的含沙量剖面。在此基础上,讨论了不同床面含沙量剖面模拟方法的差异,指出床面形态是决定含沙量变化的重要因素之一,仅通过改变床面粗糙高度不足以反映漩涡沙波床面的含沙量剖面特征。该模型可为研究波流边界层内泥沙运动和物质输运提供工具。     

Numerical investigation of the effect of current on wave focusing

In the present study,a numerical wave tank is developed to simulate the nonlinear wave-current interactions based on High Order Spectral(HOS) method.The influences of current on wave focusing are investigated by use of numerical model.The current is assumed to be constant in space.Focused waves with different amplitudes and frequency spectra are simulated with and without current.The focused wave characteristics,such as surface elevation,the maximum crest and frequency spectrum,with different current are compared.The results show that the opposing current increases the maximum crest and the energy transform during wave focusing process,and vice versa for the following current.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Field Observation and Analysis of Wave-Current-Sediment Movement in Caofeidian Sea Area in the Bohai Bay, China

In order to study the mechanism of flow-sediment movement, it is essential to obtain measured data of water hydrodynamic and sediment concentration process with high spatial and temporal resolution in the bottom boundary layer (BBL). Field observations were carried out in the northwest Caofeidian sea area in the Bohai Bay. Near 2 m isobath (under the lowest tidal level), a tripod system was installed with AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current), ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers), OBS-3A (Optical Backscatter Point Sensor), ADV (Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters), etc. The accurate measurement of the bottom boundary layer during a single tidal period was carried out, together with a long-term sediment concentration measurement under different hydrological conditions. All the measured data were used to analyze the characteristics of wave-current-sediment movement and the BBL. Analysis was performed on flow structure, shear stress, roughness, eddy viscosity and other parameters of the BBL. Two major findings were made. Firstly, from the measured data, the three-layer distribution model of the velocity profiles and eddy viscosities in the wave-current BBL are proposed in the observed sea area; secondly, the sediment movement is related closely to wind-waves in the muddy coast area where sediment is clayey silt: 1) The observed suspended sediment concentration under light wind conditions is very low, with the peak value generally smaller than 0.1 kg/m3 and the average value being 0.03 kg/m3; 2) The sediment concentration increases continuously under the gales over 6-7 in Beaufort scale, under a sustained wind action. The measured peak sediment concentration at 0.4 m above the seabed is 0.15-0.32 kg/m3, and the average sediment concentration during wind-wave action is 0.08-0.18 kg/m3, which is about 3-6 times the value under light wind conditions. The critical wave height signaling remarkable changes of sediment concentration is 0.5 m. The results show that the suspended load sediment concentration is mainly influenced by wave-induced sediment suspension.     

基于浪流耦合模型的台风浪数值模拟

基于CCMP风场资料,采用无结构网格、浪-流双向实时耦合模型FVCOM-SWAVE,模拟强热带风暴"米雷"在中国近海区域产生的海浪场,将耦合模型模拟的有效波高和平均周期与实测浮标资料进行比对,发现模拟结果的各类误差总体较小,说明耦合模型能够较好地模拟考虑浪流相互作用下中国近海台风浪过程。对比考虑潮汐引起的水位变化与不考虑水位变化情况下对耦合模型模拟结果的影响,发现在近岸区域考虑潮水位情况下的有效波高和平均周期模拟结果周期性特征明显,说明潮汐对耦合模型在近岸处有效波高的模拟影响显著。