先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。     

砂质海岸岸滩侵蚀演变模式探讨——以山东南部海岸侵蚀岸段的岸滩演变为例

在分析山东南部海岸几十年来的地形观测资料的基础上，运用砂质海岸等深线变化预测理论，建立该区的岸滩侵蚀演变预测模型，研究了该区域岸滩演变规律。实测资料验证表明：预测结果合理，基本反映了本区岸滩演变的特征。     

海岸工程中海浪数值模拟和环境参数选取的进展

主要介绍了我国近的来在海岸工程设计，建设中有关海浪数值模拟及环境参数选取方面的研究进展。     

波浪作用下海床的有效应力分析

波浪作用下海床的稳定性分析是海洋工程地质评价的重要内容。海床的稳定性可通过计算分析其随时间变化的有效应力场来评估。本文建议了一个周期荷载作用下土体的本构模型 ,并用于计算波浪作用下海床的应力与变形。采用Biot固结理论和有限单元法 ,分析了海床的动态应力场与孔隙水压力场。波浪作用下两种渗透系数时有效应力的动态变化过程结果对比 ,反映了渗透消散作用对海床有效应力变化的影响     

Spatio-Temporal Distribution of Algal and Animal Communities in a Posidonia oceanica Meadow

Abstract. Investigations were carried out in a Posidonia oceanica meadow at Ischia (Gulf of Naples) along a depth gradient from 1 to 32 m in November 1979 and May 1981.
In these two months, different discontinuities were found at the sampling stations (1, 5, 10, 20, 30 m) at 10 m for leaf features, between 1 and 5 m for the algal community and the vagile fauna. The leaf features (length, surface, and biomass) along the transects show a delay in leaf production toward the deeper stations, below the thermocline.
The algal community shows in both seasons and in all stations a persistence of an encrusting layer, mostly represented by Corallinaceae and the brown alga Myrionema orbiculare , while at the shallowest station (1 m) the community is characterized by a more developed upright layer.
The vagile fauna of the leaf stratum, mostly represented by Polychaeta, Mollusca , and Crustacea (Peracarida and Decapoda) , shows a consistent zonation in both seasons along the transect. A superficial community at I m, characterized by a low number of species and individuals and specialized for high environmental energy levels, and a deeper community, persistent in time and more strictly related to the Posidonia oceanica meadows, are identified.
The influence of environmental factors and the importance of meadow structure for the zonation of the algal and animal communities are discussed.     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

Microhabitat preferences and depth distribution of combtooth blennies (Blenniidae) in the Gulf of Trieste (North Adriatic Sea)

The microhabitat preferences and depth distribution of blenniid species (Blenniidae) in the Gulf of Trieste (North Adriatic Sea) were surveyed using the all‐occurrence sampling method, a non‐destructive visual census method, aided by SCUBA diving. Fourteen species were identified during the entire survey. Four species showed to be indiscriminate in their microhabitat choice while 10 species were classified as infrequent in the surveyed coastal area. A statistically significant correlation was found between the blenniid assemblage and nine microhabitat variables. The blenniid assemblage was divided in two main groups, by the use of canonical correspondence analysis, electivity index, and the depth distribution analysis. The first group comprises species that dwell in surface waters and show a high positive correlation with boulders, the presence of Mytilus galloprovincialis, cirripeds and empty holes bored by Lithophaga lithophaga. The second group includes species that mostly inhabit deeper waters and show a high positive correlation with rocks covered by precoralligenous bioformations.     

Distribution and abundance patterns of two parapagurid hermit crabs (Crustacea: Decapoda: Anomura) along the west and south coasts of South Africa

A series of over 6 000 research-trawl samples collected along the west and south coasts of South Africa between 1987 and 2014 were analysed for the presence and biomass of two parapagurid hermit crabs, Sympagurus dimorphus and Parapagurus bouvieri. The percentage of trawls that landed S. dimorphus and P. bouvieri and the mean caught biomass were higher on the west than on the south coast for both the more-abundant S. dimorphus (30.59 vs 5.81% success and 287.88 vs 31.37 kg km^–2, respectively) and for the less-abundant P. bouvieri (13.76 vs 3.58% success and 38.56 vs 16.32 kg km^–2, respectively). Very few parapagurids were caught shallower than 150 m; thereafter, the proportion of trawls containing hermit crabs increased, peaking over the depth range 201–250 m for S. dimorphus (54%) and 401–450 m for P. bouvieri (51%), and declining steadily thereafter. On the west coast, the relative caught biomass of S. dimorphus increased significantly from north to south, but there was no apparent latitudinal trend in relative biomass for P. bouvieri. Similarly, there was a significant decline in caught biomass of S. dimorphus with increasing longitude along the south coast, but no apparent trend for P. bouvieri. Although this represents by far the most comprehensive global analyses of distribution and abundance patterns for parapagurids to date, extremely little remains known about the biology and ecological relationships of these species, or indeed of other members of the group.     

The Huelva (Spain) Tsunami-Ready Station and Its Interaction with Storm Emma (March 2018)

Abstract

The sea level station operating since 1996 at Mazagón (Huelva, Spain) has been progressively upgraded to fit tsunami warning requirements, due to its location in one of the main regions at risk. Its radar water level sensor was complemented in 2017, with the addition of a pressure sensor. The performance of both sea level sensors and their response to sea level oscillations, at different frequencies, is assessed. Particular emphasis is put on the effect of extreme events, such as Storm Emma, when alternative methods to obtain 1-min data are tested, in contrast to the one based on arithmetic means. The overall differences are small, for the whole period of study (centered-root-mean-square-error below 1?cm, for 5-min, and hourly data; similar tidal parameters and sea level oscillations with periods between 30?s and 5?min). However, during Storm Emma, the pressure sensor presents sensibly lower readings than the radar, with the centered-root-mean-square-error rising to 80?mm on the March 2^nd 2018. A new method to compute 1-min data, based on medians, reduced this value to 10?mm for the same day.