海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

渤海岸线及水深变化对水动力影响的数值模拟

为探究渤海岸线及水深变化对水动力的影响,基于Delft3D水动力学模型,选用2003年和2015年作为围 填海前后的典型年份,建立了围填海前后岸线及水深条件下的渤海三维水动力模型,并对水动力场进行了模拟。通过对围填海前后潮波和潮余流的分析,得到了岸线及水深变化对渤海水动力场的影响。结果表明:填海后,岸线及水深变化会对渤海主导分潮M₂分潮产生较大影响,秦皇岛附近无潮点向西北方向偏移,渤海海域M₂ 分潮振幅总体减小;潮致余流场受岸线及水深变化影响较大,其中渤海湾曹妃甸港南部形成复杂的涡流,沿岸海域余流增大;滨海新区附近形成多个小范围环流,且天津港到黄骅港北部沿岸海域2015年余流比2003年增加3~5 cm/s;黄骅港南部形成一个逆时针环流,并且该处余流减小2~5 cm/s。辽东湾辽河口附近由于水深增加导致余流减小2~7 cm/s。莱州湾黄河口附近的逆时针环流向东南方向移动,黄河口北部余流略有减小,东南部余流明显增大,增加量最多能达到9 cm/s。刁龙嘴南侧顺时针环流减小,北侧顺时针环流增大4~9 cm/s。     

Wave Attenuation Performance and the Influencing Factors of A Lower Arc-Plate Breakwater

Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods.     

安达曼海内孤立波的潜标观测分析研究

安达曼海是内孤立波生成最多的海域之一,目前对其研究大多基于卫星遥感,缺乏基于现场观测资料的相关研究。本文通过2016年至2017年布放在安达曼海中部的锚系潜标对该海域内孤立波的方向和强度进行研究,结果表明在研究区域内孤立波主要向东北方向传播,最大振幅可达100 m。应用彻体力理论预测了研究海域内孤立波波源的分布,与遥感统计结果基本一致,并且波源位置更精确,可直观地给出不同波源激发内孤立波的能力。本文分别用浅水方程、深水方程和有限深方程对安达曼海中部内孤立波相速度进行模拟,结合卫星遥感分析发现该海域内孤立波的产生符合Lee波机制,在三种方程中有限深方程的模拟效果与潜标观测最相符。     

Numerical assessment of tsunami attack on a rubble mound breakwater using OpenFOAM®

A numerical assessment study of tsunami attack on the rubble mound breakwater of Haydarpasa Port, located at the southern entrance of the Istanbul Bosphorus Strait in the Sea of Marmara, Turkey, is carried out in this study using a Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver, IHFOAM, developed in OpenFOAM^® environment. The numerical model is calibrated with and validated against the data from solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments representing tsunami attack. Furthermore, attack of a potential tsunami near Haydarpasa Port is simulated to investigate effects of a more realistic tsunami that cannot be generated in a wave flume with the present state of the art technology. Discussions on practical engineering applications of this type of numerical modeling studies are given focusing on pressure distributions around the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater, and the forces acting on the single stone located behind the crown-wall at the rear side of the breakwater. Numerical modeling of stability/failure mechanism of the overall cross-section is studied throughout the paper.The present study shows that hydrodynamics along the wave flume and over the breakwater can be simulated properly for both solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments. Stability of the overall cross-section can only be simulated qualitatively for solitary wave cases; on the other hand, the effect of the time elapsed during tsunami overflow cannot be reflected in the simulations using the present numerical tool. However, the stability of the overall cross-section under tsunami overflow is assessed by evaluating forces acting on the rear side armor unit supporting the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater as a practical engineering application in the present paper. Furthermore, two non-dimensional parameters are derived to discuss the stability of this armor unit; and thus, the stability condition of the overall cross-section. Approximate threshold values for these non-dimensional parameters are presented comparing experimental and numerical results as a starting point for engineers in practice. Finally, investigations on the solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments/simulations are extended to the potential tsunami simulation in the scope of both representation of a realistic tsunami in a wave flume and stability of the rubble mound breakwater.     

波致应力的近似求解及其太平洋特征分析

基于波致应力计算中对海浪谱和波浪增长率公式的敏感性分析,选择适当的波致应力近似求解方法,计算和探讨了太平洋波致应力的时空分布特征。敏感性分析中,选择了4种常用的波浪增长率公式和3种经验解析海浪谱。推导了计算波致应力的单波公式,并将其与JONSWAP谱积分公式和Elfouhaily谱积分公式进行比较,同时使用了由风速和有效波高资料构造的Elfouhaily谱积分公式计算太平洋波致应力。结果表明:Belcher等(1993)的波浪增长率计算公式估算的波致应力与实验数据吻合度较好,同时适用ERA-interim数据;当波龄小于1.2时运用Elfouhaily谱积分公式更合适,当波龄大于1.2时运用单波公式更快速有效;太平洋的波致应力分布与风场之间存在明显的相关性;2009年1月、4月、7月和10月太平洋波致应力的季节性特征分析表明四个季节的西风带波致应力较其他地区都更强盛,而在时间变化上1月和10月为波致应力整体较为强盛的时期。     

非线性波消波及波场分布研究

本文基于雷诺平均N-S方程,并结合RNG k-e方程建立了粘性数值波浪水槽,对不同波陡、不同相对水深、不同相对波高的非线性规则波的阻尼消波问题和波场分布进行研究。文中提出了两种描述消波区内部阻尼变化的阻尼函数,分别适用于小波陡情形和高波陡情形。研究结果表明,小波陡组消波区可设为一个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5即可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果及造波理论吻合良好;高波陡组消波区可设为两个波长,阻尼系数取10~4～10~5亦可满足消波要求,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好。此外,当波陡较小时,波场内反射情况的小幅改变即可对整个波场造成影响,特别是当水深较浅时这种影响极为明显,需谨慎考虑。当波陡较大时,水波能量较高,整个波场沿水波传播方向可观测到明显的衰减现象,在具体试验中需进行考虑。     

Boussinesq相位解析的海岸水动力学数学模型研究进展

由于在平衡计算效率和精度上具有优势,Boussinesq相位解析数学模型研究不断取得突破,已成为波浪和水流精细化模拟的较优解析方式,为海岸工程、环境、地质等问题提供了实用和高效的研究手段。本文对已有Boussinesq类模型的研究进行了评述,深入探讨其重要发展、实际应用和理论瓶颈,从高阶非静压修正、GPU准三维高性能算法编译、波浪破碎和泥沙运移沉积等4个方面提出未来可能的科学突破方向。     

波浪作用下单桩基础周围海床液化机制研究

建立波浪作用下单桩周围三维海床动力响应模型,考虑自重影响下的海床长时间固结过程。采用已有物理模型试验数据对模型进行验证,证实其具有较好的适用性。模拟波浪作用下单桩周围三维海床液化区域,通过定量分析超孔隙水压力和土体初始有效应力的变化,讨论单桩插入深度对海床液化的影响机制。研究表明,单桩插入深度发生变化时,土体初始有效应力对海床液化的影响要大于超孔隙水压力,且影响程度随着插入深度的增加而逐渐增大。     

SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪模拟研究

基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。