Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

Radar cross section analysis of marine targets using a combining method of physical optics/geometric optics and a Monte-Carlo simulation

In this paper, the radar cross section of flat plates on ocean surfaces is statistically investigated. A combining method of physical optics and geometric optics is applied to establish an effective backscattering analysis procedure. This method is a high-frequency analysis method originally derived from a simplified Stratton-Chu integral equation, assuming that the radar is far away from the target so that Kirchhoff approximation is valid. A Monte-Carlo simulation method is adopted to statistically analyze the effects of undulated ocean surfaces. The ocean surfaces are randomly generated by Pierson-Moskowitz ocean wave spectrum and a directional distribution function. Numerical investigations are carried out for flat plates, with the same height and width but with different inclined angles, on ocean surfaces of various significant wave heights.     

Particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water

The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves.     

Interaction of flexural gravity waves with shear current in shallow water

In the present study, the effect of shear current on the propagation of flexural gravity waves is analyzed under the assumptions of linearized shallow-water theory. Explicit expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients associated with flexural gravity wave scattering by a step discontinuity in both water depth and current speed are derived. Further, trapping and scattering of flexural gravity waves by a jet-like shear current with a top-hat profile are examined and certain limiting conditions for the waves to exist are derived. The effects of change in water depth, current speed, incident wavelength and the angle of incidence on the group and phase velocities as well as on the reflection and transmission characteristics are analyzed through different numerical results.     

Interaction of water waves with vertical cylinders using null-field integral equations

The scattering of water waves by bottom-mounted vertical circular cylinders is solved by using the null-field integral equations in conjunction with degenerate kernels and Fourier series to avoid calculating the Cauchy and Hadamard principal values. In the implementation, the null-field point can be exactly located on the real boundary owing to the introduction of degenerate kernels for fundamental solutions. An adaptive observer system of polar coordinates is considered to fully employ the properties of degenerate kernels. For the hypersingular equation, vector decomposition for the radial and tangential gradients is carefully considered. This method can be seen as a semi-analytical approach since errors attribute from the truncation of Fourier series. Neither hypersingularity in the Burton and Miller approach nor the CHIEF concept was required to deal with the problem of irregular frequencies. Five advantages of free of calculating principal value, well-posed algebraic system, convergence rate of exponential order, meshfree and elimination of boundary-layer effect, are achieved by using the present approach. Numerical results are given for the forces and free-surface elevation around the circular boundaries. Also, the near-trapped behavior arisen from the physical resonance is detected. A general-purpose program for water wave impinging several circular cylinders with arbitrary number, radii, and positions was developed. Several examples of water wave structure interaction by vertical circular cylinders were demonstrated to see the validity of the present formulation.     

南海北部陆坡海域内波谱特征

本文对1998年南海季风实验中定点观测的声学多普勒流速剖面仪（Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler,ADCP）海流数据进行频谱分析,结果表明南海北部地区内波之间的非线性作用的强弱影响着该海域的内波谱特征。在季节性温跃层（水深22m和58m）中,由于存在着强的非线性作用,内波带的谱斜率趋于σ^-1和σ^-2之间,而且较高能量的潮谐波频率的峰值随着频率呈现少见的一。递减。在季节性温跃层（水深130m）以下,内波非线性相互作用较弱,观测的内波带谱特征与标准Garrett-Munk内波谱相似,均显示了σ^-2的谱斜率。     

近岸海浪、风暴潮及海啸灾害远程实时监测系统的现场试验及应用

利用自主研发的近岸海浪、风暴潮及海啸灾害远程实时监测系统,在广东省阳江市闸坡附近海域进行了远程实时监测试验.文章介绍了监测系统的组成,对2007年9月1日-10月3日的观测记录进行了分析,计算出台风增水、波高和波周期,采用低通滤波方法获得重力外波.实验结果表明,研发的近岸海浪、风暴潮及海啸灾害远程实时监测系统可供实际推广应用.     

Investigating internal waves east of the Hainan Island using optical satellite remote sensing data

Marginal water of east Hainan Island was an area that internal waves occurred frequently, however, few studies was found and mechanism for internal waves formation was unclear. In the paper, China Brazil earth Resources Satellite data (CBERS) was used to detect and calculate distribution, direction, wavelength and amplitude of internal waves in marginal water of east Hainan Island and the mechanism of internal waves formation was also analyzed, results showed that direction of internal wave was off shoreward and wavelength was about 150-200m . The mechanism for internal wave’s formation can be postulated as by upwelling or tide tracing back.     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

2D Wave setup behind submerged breakwaters

In addition to reducing the incoming wave energy, submerged breakwaters also cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area, which is relevant to the whole shadow zone circulation, including alongshore currents and seaward flows through the gaps. This study examines such a leading hydraulic parameter under the simplified hypothesis of 2D motion and presents a prediction model that has been validated by a wide ensemble of experimental data. Starting from an approach originally proposed by Dalrymple and Dean [(1971). Piling-up behind low and submerged permeable breakwaters. Discussion note on Diskin et al. (1970). Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division WW2, 423–427], the model splits the rise of the mean water level into two contributions: one is due to the momentum flux release forced by wave breaking on the structure, and the other is associated with the mass transport process. For the first time, the case of random wave trains has been explicitly considered.