A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

实际气象场驱动下太湖悬浮物浓度的模拟研究

本文利用高频变化的实际气象数据, 在考虑波浪作用的前提下利用FVCOM (Finite-volume Coastal Ocean Model)模式模拟了太湖底泥再悬浮的情况。模拟结果表明, FVCOM模式在考虑波浪作用下对太湖悬浮物浓度的模拟结果与卫星反演结果吻合较好。在模拟时刻, 湖心区和西南湖区是悬浮物浓度的大值区, 其原因在于: 湖心区虽然底泥较少, 但其流场的分布总是有利于周围悬浮物向湖心区输送; 而西南湖区本身有底泥的分布, 在上升运动和流场的配合下, 一方面有悬浮物向该区域输送, 另一方面该区域有沉积物悬浮。模拟时刻切应力和悬浮物浓度的空间配置是不一致的, 说明了底部切应力并不是影响悬浮物浓度的唯一因子, 还与湖流的输移和底泥的分布有关。     

旋转地球流体的一个非线性奇异孤立波精确解

本文求出了旋转地球流体的f平面浅水波方程组的一个非线性精确解.这是一个处处连续、分片光滑的凹形孤立波,在波谷处为一尖点（奇异点）,其移速比长波速度gh1/2略小,为（1+a/h）（gh（1+a/h））1/2,其中a<0.其水平尺度与水深几乎无关.     

万米级深海陶瓷耐压结构水下内爆流场数值模拟

耐压结构是深海潜器的重要组成部分,但在深海的高压环境中却存在内爆的风险。为研究陶瓷耐压结构水下内爆的流场特性,使用针对可压缩多相流问题开发的开源代码,采用直接数值模拟,应用自适应直角网格,对两种压力条件下的耐压结构水下内爆进行了数值模拟。通过低压模拟结果与理论解和试验值比较,验证了模拟方法的有效性,进而开展万米级深海陶瓷耐压结构水下内爆模拟。分析发现：陶瓷耐压结构发生内爆后,其内部气腔存在多次压缩—反弹现象,深海环境压力越大则反弹越不明显;气腔反弹阶段,在结构外部将产生数倍于深海环境压力的冲击波,且传播速度接近声速;冲击波压力峰值与到球心距离呈负指数幂函数关系;在相同深海环境压力下,耐压结构外部监测点的冲击波压力与球体半径呈正比例关系。     

A maximum-entropy compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas

A new compound distribution model for extreme wave heights of typhoon-affected sea areas is proposed on the basis of the maximum-entropy principle.The new model is formed by nesting a discrete distribution in a continuous one,having eight parameters which can be determined in terms of observed data of typhoon occurrence-frequency and extreme wave heights by numerically solving two sets of equations derived in this paper.The model is examined by using it to predict the N-year return-period wave height at two hydrology stations in the Yellow Sea,and the predicted results are compared with those predicted by use of some other compound distribution models.Examinations and comparisons show that the model has some advantages for predicting the N-year return-period wave height in typhoon-affected sea areas.     

安达曼海内孤立波的潜标观测分析研究

安达曼海是内孤立波生成最多的海域之一,目前对其研究大多基于卫星遥感,缺乏基于现场观测资料的相关研究。本文通过2016年至2017年布放在安达曼海中部的锚系潜标对该海域内孤立波的方向和强度进行研究,结果表明在研究区域内孤立波主要向东北方向传播,最大振幅可达100 m。应用彻体力理论预测了研究海域内孤立波波源的分布,与遥感统计结果基本一致,并且波源位置更精确,可直观地给出不同波源激发内孤立波的能力。本文分别用浅水方程、深水方程和有限深方程对安达曼海中部内孤立波相速度进行模拟,结合卫星遥感分析发现该海域内孤立波的产生符合Lee波机制,在三种方程中有限深方程的模拟效果与潜标观测最相符。     

东北地区历史时期森林空间格局网格化重建方法研究(英文)

The spatially explicit reconstruction of historical land-cover datasets plays an important role in studying the climatic and ecological effects of land-use and land-cover change(LUCC). Using potential natural vegetation(PNV) and satellite-based land use data, we determined the possible maximum distribution extent of forest cover in the absence of human disturbance. Subsequently, topography and climate factors were selected to assess the suitability of land for cultivation. Finally, a historical forest area allocation model was devised on the basis of the suitability of land for cultivation. As a case study, we used the historical forest area allocation model to reconstruct forest cover for 1780 and 1940 in Northeast China with a 10-km resolution. To validate the model, we compared satellite-based forest cover data with our reconstruction for 2000. A one-sample t-test of absolute bias showed that the two-tailed significance was 0.12, larger than the significant level 0.05, suggesting that the model has strong ability to capture the spatial distribution of forests. In addition, we calculated the relative difference of our reconstruction at the county scale for 1780 in Northeast China. The number of counties whose relative difference ranged from-30% to 30% is 99, accounting for 74.44% of all counties. These findings demonstrated that the provincial forest area could be transformed into forest cover maps well using the model.     

“Greatest lake period” and its palaeo-environment on the Tibetan Plateau

The “greatest lake period” means that the lakes are in the stage of their maximum areas. As the paleo lake shorelines are widely distributed in the lake basins on the Tibetan Plateau, the lake areas during the “greatest lake period” may be inferred by the last highest lake shorelines. They are several, even tens times larger than that at present. According to the analyses of tens of lakes on the Plateau, most dating data fell into the range of 40-25 ka BP, some lasted to 20 ka BP. It was corresponded to the stage 3 of marine isotope and interstitial of last glaciation. The occurrence of maximum areas of lakes marked the very humid period on the Plateau and was also related to the stronger summer monsoon during that period.     

临猗5.0级地震前后品质因子值变化特征研究

利用西安数字地震遥测台网记录的数字地震资料，采用P波初动半周期残差法求得1998年7月临猗5．0级地震前后不同路径的Q(品质因子)值变化，发现在地震发生前Q值为87～203，震后Q值为67～164，震前震中区附近出现明显的高Q值异常。结果表明，地震前的高Q值异常可以作为地震预测的一种手段。     

西沙湾工程波浪推算及波浪场数值模拟

本研究根据崇武水文站1976—2007年共31 a的波浪观测资料,使用皮尔逊Ⅲ型频率曲线进行拟合分析,推算出崇武在不同重现期条件下的特征波浪要素,再将其作为外海波浪要素输入,通过基于椭圆型缓坡方程的CGWAVE近岸波浪数值模型,模拟西沙湾的重现期波浪场,得到其设计波浪要素,得到较为合理的计算结果。西沙湾的海底地形强烈地影响近岸波浪,导致了波高和波向的不均匀分布特征,岛屿和礁石都是天然屏障,东侧水域受龟屿及闽台码头的掩护,波浪反射、绕射明显,对避风坞起到了有效的保护作用。此外,对于不同地质的边界,反射系数不同使得近岸波高分布有较大差异。