海坛海峡二维潮流场数值模拟

海坛海峡为南北狭长型海峡，海峡内潮波属于前进波．本文建立了平面二维浅水波数学方程，利用欧拉-拉格朗日差分方法得到数值解，模型采用随时间变化的动边界技术，成功地模拟了海坛海峡的前进波特征，并根据实测数据进行了验证．同时计算了同潮时线和等振幅线，不同时刻的潮流场和潮流平均流速分布．计算结果表明，北部湾口M2分潮高潮时间比南部湾口早约5～6min，等振幅线范围约为2．12～2．15m．海峡内流速分布呈南北强、中间弱的特点，最大流速1m／s左右．     

Observations and modelling of the travel time delay and leading negative phase of the 16 September 2015 Illapel,Chile tsunami

The systematic discrepancies in both tsunami arrival time and leading negative phase (LNP) were identified for the recent transoceanic tsunami on 16 September 2015 in Illapel, Chile by examining the wave characteristics from the tsunami records at 21 Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART) sites and 29 coastal tide gauge stations. The results revealed systematic travel time delay of as much as 22 min (approximately 1.7％ of the total travel time) relative to the simulated long waves from the 2015 Chilean tsunami. The delay discrepancy was found to increase with travel time. It was difficult to identify the LNP from the near-shore observation system due to the strong background noise, but the initial negative phase feature became more obvious as the tsunami propagated away from the source area in the deep ocean. We determined that the LNP for the Chilean tsunami had an average duration of 33 min, which was close to the dominant period of the tsunami source. Most of the amplitude ratios to the first elevation phase were approximately 40％, with the largest equivalent to the first positive phase amplitude. We performed numerical analyses by applying the corrected long wave model, which accounted for the effects of seawater density stratification due to compressibility, self-attraction and loading (SAL) of the earth, and wave dispersion compared with observed tsunami waveforms. We attempted to accurately calculate the arrival time and LNP, and to understand how much of a role the physical mechanism played in the discrepancies for the moderate transoceanic tsunami event. The mainly focus of the study is to quantitatively evaluate the contribution of each secondary physical effect to the systematic discrepancies using the corrected shallow water model. Taking all of these effects into consideration, our results demonstrated good agreement between the observed and simulated waveforms. We can conclude that the corrected shallow water model can reduce the tsunami propagation speed and reproduce the LNP, which is observed for tsunamis that have propagated over long distances frequently. The travel time delay between the observed and corrected simulated waveforms is reduced to <8 min and the amplitude discrepancy between them was also markedly diminished. The incorporated effects amounted to approximately 78％ of the travel time delay correction, with seawater density stratification, SAL, and Boussinesq dispersion contributing approximately 39％, 21％, and 18％, respectively. The simulated results showed that the elastic loading and Boussinesq dispersion not only affected travel time but also changed the simulated waveforms for this event. In contrast, the seawater stratification only reduced the tsunami speed, whereas the earth's elasticity loading was responsible for LNP due to the depression of the seafloor surrounding additional tsunami loading at far-field stations. This study revealed that the traditional shallow water model has inherent defects in estimating tsunami arrival, and the leading negative phase of a tsunami is a typical recognizable feature of a moderately strong transoceanic tsunami. These results also support previous theory and can help to explain the observed discrepancies.     

考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程

在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上,对这种模型进行了改进,改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外,加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明,在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致,在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用,将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。     

WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟台风浪场的结果分析

利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟2007年8月墨西哥湾飓风迪安的波浪场.将QSCAT/NCEP混合风场与台风模型风场合成为背景风场.修改WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套接口以使WAVEWATCH和SWAN2种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行.利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟飓风迪安的波浪场,采用浮标资料检验模拟结果,以验证WAVEWATCH和SWAN模拟的准确性及修改后嵌套接口的可用性.结果表明,修改嵌套接口之后模式运行平稳,2种模式的结果与浮标及高度计观测数据均基本吻合.嵌套模拟结果好于单纯使用WAVEWATCH模拟的结果,体现了利用2种模式嵌套模拟台风浪场的科学性.     

用Gumbel极值分布推算气候极值的方法

介绍了用Gumbel极值分布理论推算气候极值的矩法、Thomas曲线公式和最小二乘法。并计算多年一遇的年最高气温、年最大均风速、年最大日降雨量和年最大波高。指出,变率小的要素极值再现期短;变率大的要素极值再现期长;Thomas曲线公式的计算结果较其它两种方法接近历史实况,且计算简便。     

Rainfall effect on wind waves and the turbulence beneath air-sea interface

Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.     

波浪破碎诱导的海-气无机盐通量的参数化

波浪破碎诱导生成的海盐粒子是海洋向大气输运无机盐的主要机制,海气界面的无机盐通量对于全球气候变化有重要影响。本文开展了实验室实验模拟海盐粒子生成实验,定量考察了温度和盐度对海盐粒子中离子质量分布的影响,揭示了初生海盐粒子中各离子的富集和亏损现象与温度和盐度的关系。基于实验室观测分析结果和推测假定,提出了1个既包含海面风速、又反映海表温度和海表盐度影响的海-气无机盐通量参数化方案。将此参数化方案应用于估计海盐粒子向大气输运的各种无机盐离子质量通量,并与传统方法估算结果进行了比对分析。     

SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪模拟研究

基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。     

一种高频雷达回波谱反演海浪的新算法

在高频地波雷达海浪谱反演问题中,广泛采用的Barrick后向散射公式属于第一类非线性Fredholm积分方程。此类积分方程的解在本质上是不适定的,加之高频雷达二阶回波信号信噪比较低,使得反演海浪谱存在解不稳定的问题。本文提出一种稳定且低复杂度的反演算法,此算法首先根据高频雷达一阶回波谱测量海浪方向,并将其引入积分方程求解过程,减少求解变量的个数,降低反演算法的复杂度。为解决反演结果不稳定的问题,使用Tikhonov正则化方法并利用广义交叉验证法(GCV)确定其正则化系数。通过在不同测试条件下对反演算法的仿真测试分析,表明此方法具有运算量小、稳定性好的特点。