Wave steepness retrieved from scatterometer data in a genetic algorithm

Wave steepness is an important characteristic of a high sea state, and is widely applied on wave propagations at ports, ships, offshore platforms, and CO2 circulation in the ocean. Obtaining wave steepness is a difficult task that depends heavily on theoretical research on wavelength distribution and direct observations. Development of remote-sensing techniques provides new opportunities to study wave steepness. At present, two formulas are proposed to estimate wave steepness from QuikSCAT and ERS-1/2 scatterometer data. We found that wave steepness retrieving is not affected by radar band, and polarization method, and that relationship of wave steepness with radar backscattering cross section is similar to that with wind. Therefore, we adopted and modified a genetic algorithm for relating wave steepness with radar backscattering cross section. Results show that the root-mean-square error of the wave steepness retrieved is 0.005 in two cases from ERS-1/2 scatterometer data and from QuikSCAT scatterometer data.     

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.     

Boussinesq相位解析的海岸水动力学数学模型研究进展

由于在平衡计算效率和精度上具有优势,Boussinesq相位解析数学模型研究不断取得突破,已成为波浪和水流精细化模拟的较优解析方式,为海岸工程、环境、地质等问题提供了实用和高效的研究手段。本文对已有Boussinesq类模型的研究进行了评述,深入探讨其重要发展、实际应用和理论瓶颈,从高阶非静压修正、GPU准三维高性能算法编译、波浪破碎和泥沙运移沉积等4个方面提出未来可能的科学突破方向。     

9914号台风风暴潮、巨浪特点分析及其预报

本文介绍了１９９９年１４号台凤造成闽南沿海地区灾害概况,分析了台风、暴潮、巨浪的特点,阐述了本台对台风暴潮巨浪监测预报服务情况,说明加强海洋灾害预报预报在防灾减灾中的重要作用。     

东北亚地区MS6.0以上地震异常电磁波动研究

利用2005-01~2009-12 DEMETER电磁卫星详查模式下磁场与电场的极低频（ELF）三分量波形数据,选取东北亚地区（38°~58°N,105°~145°E）6个M_S≥6地震,对震前30 d震中上空±10°的6 000余条1130和1135轨道数据进行波矢分析和坡印廷矢量分析。结果发现,2005-08-16日本本洲东岸近海M_S7.2地震和2009-06-05日本北海道地区M_S6.6地震震前在质子回旋频率以下记录到来源于地球的异常电磁波扰动;2005-11-10俄罗斯西伯利亚东南部M_S6.4地震和2007-08-02俄罗斯萨哈林岛(库页岛)M_S6.8地震震前在质子回旋频率以下没有记录到异常电磁波扰动;2007-02-17日本北海道地区M_S6.2地震和2008-06-13日本本州东岸近海M_S7.3地震震前在质子回旋频率以下记录到异常电磁波扰动,但并非来源于地球。     

Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method

A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.     

三维弹性侧壁液舱内液体晃动波面的实验研究

通过物理模型实验,对弹性侧壁液舱和刚性液舱内液体晃荡问题进行了研究。由于流固耦合的影响,弹性侧壁液舱内液体晃荡的最低阶固有频率稍小于同尺寸的刚性液舱内液体晃荡的最低阶固有频率。液舱模型处于纵向简谐激励作用下,其中激励频率在最低阶固有频率附近。实验分析两种相对液深比h/L=0.167和h/L=0.333,在二阶模态的次共振和一阶模态的共振状况下,对弹性侧壁液舱与刚性液舱内不同测点的波面、振幅谱和晃动波高进行对比分析。结果表明:在浅液深(h/L=0.167)一阶共振下,流固耦合对波面形态的影响比较明显,弹性侧壁液舱内测点晃动波高明显大于刚性液舱内对应测点波高;而在一般液深(h/L=0.333)一阶共振下,水弹性效应减弱,弹性侧壁液舱与刚性液舱内对应测点处波高差异较小。     

长江三峡阶地的成因机制

根据对长江三峡阶地堆积物进行的野外调查与室内分析发现三峡阶地的成因具有以下特点:构成阶地上部的河漫滩相堆积、中部的冲积砾石层与作为阶地基座的基岩平台是在不同时期形成的;阶地上部河漫滩相堆积是在中全新世气候温暖、长江三峡高水位条件下形成的.因此,长江三峡阶地是在构造上升的基础上由于气候及长江三峡流量及水位变化而形成的,并非一定是间歇性构造上升的标志.     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.