Observations and Estimations of Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves

The directional spectrum is one of the basic characteristics of sea waves. The observations of directional spectrum of sea waves were successfully conducted at platform Bohai 8 during 1991 and 1992 using a wave gage array for the first time in China. Based on the field data, the directional spectrum which depends on the wave growth is given in this paper. Before observations, the effects of the type of gage array, the distance between the gages and the platform itself on the measured results and the precision of some methods for estimating the directional spectrum were investigated and compared with the methods of numerical simulations and model tests of multi-direcitonal irregular waves. This ensures the quality of the observations and estimations of the directional spectrum.     

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

Sediment Transport in Rivers and Coastal Waters

Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions.     

Monitoring the Kuroshio Extension with Dynamically Constrained Synthesis of the Acoustic Tomography, Satellite Altimeter and in situ Data

A finite-difference quasigeostrophic (QG) model of an open ocean region has been employed to produce a dynamically constrained synthesis of acoustic tomography and satellite altimetry data with in situ observations. The assimilation algorithm is based upon the 4D variational data interpolation scheme controlled by the model's initial and boundary conditions. The data sets analyzed include direct and differential travel times measured at the array of five acoustic transceivers deployed by JAMSTEC in the region of the Kuroshio Extension in 1997, Topex/Poseidon altimetry, CTD soundings, and ADCP velocity profiles. The region monitored is located within the area 27.5°–36.5°N, 143°–155°. The results of assimilation show that mesoscale variability can be effectively reconstructed by five transceivers measuring direct and reciprocal travel times supported by relatively sparse in situ measurements. The misfits between model and data lie within the observational error bars for all the data types used in assimilation. We have compared the results of assimilation with the statistical inversion of travel time data and analyzed energy balances of the optimized model solution. Energy exchange between the depth-averaged and shear components of the observed currents reveals a weak decay of the barotropic mode at the rate of 0.2 ± 0.7⋅10⁻⁵ cm²/s³ due to topographic interaction. Mean currents in the region are unstable with an estimate of the available potential energy flux from the mean current to the eddies of 4.7 ± 2.3⋅10⁻⁵ cm²/s³. Kinetic energy transition has the same sign and is estimated as 2.8 ± 2.5⋅10⁻⁵ cm²/s³. Potential enstrophy is transferred to the mesoscale at a rate of 5.5 ± 2.7⋅10⁻¹⁸ s⁻³. These figures provide observational evidence of the properties of free geostrophic turbulence which were predicted by theory and observed in numerical experiments. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

半潜式超大浮体连接器动力特性的一种时间序列分析方法

根据刚性模块弹性连接器 (RMFC)假设研究由 3个模块连接而成的半潜式超大浮体MobileOffshoreBase(MOB)的波浪载荷动力响应。模块和连接器动力响应根据时间序列法计算 ,这种方法包括海况模拟 ,波浪载荷计算和结构响应计算三个主要部分。通过对结构的适当简化 ,根据Airy波理论 ,Morrison公式以及流体中的结构运动方程、弹性连接器变形方程 ,计算求得MOB在不规则海况下的动力响应 ,并将其与相关文献中的结果进行比较 ,表明该方法有良好的精确性     

一种推广的缓坡方程

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。