Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.     

Proximate Constituents, Biomass, and Energy in Posidonia oceanica (Potamogetonaceae)

Abstract. The proximate composition of the various components of Posidonia oceanica is given in terms of gravimetric and energetic level and amount of plants from 2 depths at Port-Cros (Var. France). The level of proximate constituents differed little between the leaves (regardless of age) and the roots, but the rhizome contained much more soluble carbohydrate and less structural carbohydrate and ash. Because of this, the energy level in the leaves was more in terms of organic material and less in terms of total material than the energy level in the rhizome. The leaves of a P. oceanica shoot at 2 m depth in July contained 1.6 g organic material. 29.0 kJ. The weight and energy of the soluble carbohydrate in the rhizome from the base of the leaves to the 18th sheath scale decreased by ca. 40% from October to March and increased by ca. 100% from March to July.     

In situ and satellite observations of the eastward migration of the Western Alboran Sea Gyre

During October 2003 an intensive oceanographic survey (BIOMEGA) was carried out in the Alboran Sea, coinciding with a migration event of the Western Alboran Sea Gyre (WAG). The observations gathered during that cruise constitute the first field evidence of a migrated stage of the WAG. In this work we present the main differences between the 3D hydrodynamic fields observed during BIOMEGA and those corresponding to a WAG located at its usual position. The migration of the gyre was followed by satellite (altimetry and sea surface temperature) imagery. The causes of the gyre migration are explored in terms of the quasi-geostrophic tendency equation, in particular of the dynamics governing scales larger than the Rossby radius of deformation. It is shown that the steady state gyre must be almost equivalent barotropic and that the key process to break down the stationarity would be a density advection at gyre scale. The mechanisms to explain the migration of the WAG proposed by previous authors are discussed in light of the explanation proposed in this work.     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

浅层SH反射波法和多道瞬态面波法 进行联合工程勘察的讨论

针对目前单一工程物探方法调查浅部地质结构的局限性,提出采用弹性波法勘察中研究浅部地质结构的SH波反射勘察和多道瞬态面波法勘察这2种有效手段进行联合勘探,提高其可靠性和精度,并给出了3个实例,指出了在数据采集和处理时应注意的问题。     

多道瑞利波在矿井独头巷道超前探中的应用

瑞利波超前探测作为一种新的矿井地球物理探测方法,具有简便、快速、经济、分辨率高、适用场地小、应用范围广等优点。介绍了瑞利波探测技术原理,并将其用于煤矿井下独头巷道大距离超前探测中。实例表明,探测距离达80 m以上,条件允许时可达100 m以上。