A laboratory study of directional spectra with maximum likelihood method-Ⅰ Developing wind wave

measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likelihood method The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos^2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al.(1963, Ocean Wave Spectra, 111-136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole resalts. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al.(1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750-760) and Hasselmann et al.(1980, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 10, 1264-1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters s_m, f_o, b₁ and b₂, determining the directional width, and ū₁₀ (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al.(1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509-562) when applied to field waves.     

台风风暴潮气压项作用探讨

在台风风暴增水过程中,风应力占主要作用,气压项的作用要上对较小,许多风暴潮预报模式中气压项被忽略。本文在建立台湾海峡风暴潮预报模型的基础上峄台风气压项作用进行了模拟,结果发现在台湾海峡狭长的海域内,台风气压项的作用表现得较为特殊,在台风风暴潮模拟过程中,应考虑其贡献及大小。     

一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.     

Breaking of Solitary Waves on Uniform Slopes

The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown.     

Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes

Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed.     

Multiple-Step Predictive Control for Offshore Structures

—Ocean wave propagation is slow,visible and measurable,so a wave theory can be used to approxi-mately predict the imminnent wave force on an offshore structure based on measured,real-time wave elevation nearthe structure.This predictability suggests the development of a more efficient algorithm,than those that have beendeveloped for structures under wind and seismic loads,for the active vibration control of offshore structures.Thepresent study delveops a mutiple-step predictive optimal control(MPOC)algorithm that accounts for multiple-step external loading in the determibation of optimal control forces.The control efficiency of the newly developedMPOC algorithm has been investigated under both regular(single-frequency)and irregular(multiple-frequency)wave loads,and compared with that of two other well-known optimal control algorithms:classical linear optimalcontrol(CLOC)and instantaneou optimal control(IOC).     

A Study on the Distribution of Wave Phases

Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution.     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

星载合成孔径雷达海浪图像谱仿真研究

利用Hasselm ann 的完全非线性积分方法对文氏海浪谱的星载合成孔径雷达(SAR)图像谱进行了仿真研究。结果表明: (1) 在星载SAR海浪成像过程中, 速度聚束调制远比水动力调制、倾斜调制和距离向聚束调制重要;(2) 图像谱有180°的方向模糊和方位向的高波数截断,距离向传播海浪的图像谱存在双峰现象; (3) 不同极化方式和雷达视向的选取对图像谱无明显影响, 因而对于海浪的星载SAR遥感而言, 可以采用单一极化和单一视向。对于不同成长状态的风浪而言, 以上结果保持不变。