Effect of dispersion on impulsive waves

The generation and propagation of surface waves resulting from suddenly created disturbances over water surfaces is investigated. The initial boundary conditions defining the disturbance are given either by a velocity of the free surface, an initial elevation of the free surface or a pressure impulsively applied on the free surface. It is shown that the corresponding three forms of solutions are related by a simple time derivative. Linear solutions are obtained in the cases where the wave motion is assumed to be nondispersive, mildly dispersive and fully dispersive, as well as in the case where the motion is given by the method of stationary phase. Criteria are established to indicate the limit of validity of each method.     

山东南山集团东海热电厂地貌型态和泥沙淤积分析

通过分析东海热电厂厂址海域的底质和海岸型态、浅水区波浪、水体含沙量和沿岸输沙．为选择电厂取、排水口合理位置提供科学依据。     

基准网平差初至波定位方法及应用

在滩浅海地震勘探中,由于海水深度和潮流的变化,在水面上按照预定位置沉放的检波器,在海底不可能放置在预定的位置。为此,利用基准网平差初至波定位方法对海底检波器位置进行了准确的二次定位,并对初至波二次定位和声波二次定位进行了比较分析。基准网平差初至波定位方法在KD-1滩浅海地区高精度地震勘探应用中取得了良好的效果。     

电磁波井间CT成象技术及其在岩土工程中的应用

简要叙述了电磁波ＣＴ成象技术的基本原理、工作方法及其在岩土工程中诸如机场跑道、隧道工程和高层建筑地基评价中的应用。通过井下激发和观测电磁波能量的衰减，利用ＣＴ技术重建了地下介质在观测平面内相对吸收系数的二维分布图象，这些图象直观准确地反映出地下介质的构造形态、地层界面、风化壳以及破碎带的分布特征，在岩土工程探测中发挥了重要作用。     

北太平洋海浪场和风场特征分析

利用欧洲中尺度天气预报中心(ECMWF——European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts)的1979年1月2014年12月逐6 h的ERA-Interim有效波高和10 m风场资料,分析了近36年期间北太平洋海域海浪场和风场的变化特征。结果表明:1)中低纬度的西北太平洋波高有逐年线性递增趋势,大约在0.2~0.6 cm/a,而低纬度的太平洋东北部海域则以-0.4~-0.2 cm/a的趋势减小。2)风速线性变化趋势显著的区域主要集中在太平洋东北部低纬度海域,约以1.0~2.0 cm/(s·a)的速度在增加。而日本岛四周、菲律宾半岛以南等海域大都以-1.0~-0.5 cm/(s·a)的速度减小。3)北太平洋海域波高和风速都具有明显的季节变化特征,两者具有很强的相关性。西风带内有一个个波高超过10 m的风暴圈,其波高受风浪和涌浪的双重作用。这可为航海、海洋工程设计、军事及海洋能开发与利用等方面提供科学依据。     

Semi-analytical solution for the water wave diffraction by arrays of truncated circular cylinders in front of a vertical wall

The present study investigates the combined wave field that is induced by the continuous interaction of plane waves with an array of truncated circular cylinders in front of a rigid wall. The long-term goal of the study is the investigation of possible increase in the efficiency of cylindrical Wave Energy Converters (WECs) by putting in the vicinity of the array a barrier to propagation, a wall, that could assist the reflection of the incoming waves. The main task is to develop a generic solution method that is free of conceptual simplifications employed, e.g. by the method of images and the assumption of “pure” wave reflection. To cope with the set task, the proposed method relies on the semi-analytical formulation of the velocity potentials, while the solution is sought by combined expressions that involve polar and elliptical harmonics. The wall is represented as an elliptical cylinder with zero semi-minor axis. This assumption has eventually a beneficial effect to the underlying formulation given that it simplifies significantly the expansions of the involved diffraction potentials.     

Tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable seawall: Experiment and RANS modeling

This study investigates tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable trapezoidal seawall on a 1:20 sloping beach. New laboratory experiments are performed for describing three typical cases: a turbulent bore rushes inland and subsequently impacts and overtops the seawall (Type 1); a wave directly collapses on the seawall and then generates overtopping flow (Type 2); and, a wave straightforwardly overtops the seawall crown and collapses behind the seawall (Type 3). A two-dimensional volume of fluid (VOF) type model called the COBRAS (COrnell BReaking And Structure) model, which is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the k–ε turbulence closure solver, is validated by experimental data and then applied to investigate wave dynamics for which laboratory data are unavailable. Additionally, a set of numerical experiments is conducted to examine the dynamic wave acting force due to waves impacting the seawall. Effects of wave nonlinearity and freeboard are elucidated. Special attention is given to a distinct vortex evolutionary behavior behind the seawall, in which the dynamic properties of entrapped air-bubbles are briefly addressed experimentally and numerically.     

Deterministic non-linear wave prediction using probe data

The accurate prediction of non-linear sea states represents a great challenge, with a number of applications in oceanography, marine engineering, security of people and marine transportation, etc. In this paper, we report on the development of two efficient deterministic prediction models for 2D irregular wave-fields. These models are based on the exploitation of wave elevation time series given by one or more probes and on the use of two different numerical models for the wave-fields simulation. Two effective data assimilation processes are developed to improve the wave-field estimates obtained from the study of one or several probe signals, so that we obtain proper initial conditions for the forecast. The assimilation schemes have been validated on the reconstruction of model-generated observations and accurate predictions of the corresponding synthetic wave-fields evolution have been obtained.     

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

高阶非线性完全频散性波浪数值模型及应用

为更精确地模拟强非线性完全频散性波浪的传播,采用长波上非线性重力表面波传播高阶数学模型,综合参考此模式已有的研究成果,建立了一个高达五阶的完全频散性非线性数值模型。应用该五阶模式对斜坡地形、潜堤地形及正弦沙链地形进行模拟计算,并与已有的实验资料进行对比,结果显示五阶模式较低阶模式模拟结果的精度上有了明显提高,模拟波形与实验结果吻合度良好,证明高阶模式更适用于高频散高非线性波浪传播的数值模拟。