Location and height of intertidal bars on macrotidal ridge and runnel beaches

Previous studies devoted to the morphology and hydrodynamics of ridge and runnel beaches highlight characteristics that deviate from those initially postulated by King and Williams (Geographical Journal, 1949, vol. 113, 70–85) and King (Beaches and Coasts, 1972, Edward Arnold). Disagreements on the morphodynamics of these macrotidal beaches include the position of the ridges relative to the mean neap and spring tide levels, the variation in the height of the ridges across the intertidal profile and, most importantly, whether the ridges are formed by swash or surf zone processes. The morphological characteristics of ridge and runnel beaches from three locations with varying wave, tidal and geomorphic settings were investigated to address these disagreements. Beach profiles from each site were analysed together with water‐level data collected from neighbouring ports. It was found that the ridges occur over the entire intertidal zone. On one site (north Lincolnshire, east England), the ridges are uniformly distributed over the intertidal beach, whereas on the two other sites (Blackpool beach, northwest England, and Leffrinckoucke beach, north France) there is some indication that the ridges appear to occur at preferential locations. Most significantly, the locations of the ridge crests were found to be unrelated to the positions on the intertidal profile where the water level is stationary for the longest time. It was further found that the highest ridges generally occur just above mid‐tide level where tidal non‐stationarity is greatest. These findings argue against the hypothesis that the ridges are formed by swash processes acting at stationary tide levels. It is tentatively suggested that the ridges are the result of a combination of swash and surf zone processes acting across the intertidal zone. Elucidation of the morphodynamic roles of these two types of processes, and other processes such as strong current flows in the runnels, requires further comprehensive field measurements complemented by numerical modelling. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Distorted Froude‐scaled flume analysis of large woody debris

This paper presents the results of a movable‐boundary, distorted, Froude‐scaled hydraulic model based on Abiaca Creek, a sand‐bedded channel in northern Mississippi. The model was used to examine the geomorphic and hydraulic impact of simplified large woody debris (LWD) elements. The theory of physical scale models is discussed and the method used to construct the LWD test channel is developed. The channel model had bed and banks moulded from 0·8 mm sand, and flow conditions were just below the threshold of motion so that any sediment transport and channel adjustment were the result of the debris element. Dimensions and positions of LWD elements were determined using a debris jam classification model. Elements were attached to a dynamometer to measure element drag forces, and channel adjustment was determined through detailed topographic surveys. The fluid drag force on the elements decreased asymptotically over time as the channel boundary eroded around the elements due to locally increased boundary shear stress. Total time for geomorphic adjustment computed for the prototype channel at the Q₂ discharge (discharge occurring once every two years on average) was as short as 45 hours. The size, depth and position of scour holes, bank erosion and bars created by flow acceleration past the elements were found to be related to element length and position within the channel cross‐section. Morphologies created by each debris element in the model channel were comparable with similar jams observed in the prototype channel. Published in 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

一次干冷锋过程的边界层风场结构和尺度分析

本文利用南京北郊164米气象塔实测资料对一次非降水弱冷锋过程的边界层风场结构一三维风速、横锋向水平散度、湍流通量和能量的时空分布，以及多尺度时空分布进行了计算分析。结果表明，在冷暖空气的过渡区（锋区）风场各参量具有明显的梯度，锋区前线的强上升气流与强冷锋相近，但锋区宽度较强冷锋宽得多，其时间尺度为30分钟，水平距离为35公里。锋面过境对风温场的影响时段为24小时，在这期间，出现阵风浪涌和多种中、小尺度（时间尺度为3－4小时、1－20分钟）的湍涡活动。     

THE FOUNDATION AND MOVEMENT OF TROPICAL SEMI-GEOSTROPHIC ADAPTATION

The breakdown and foundation of geostrophic balance is one of the important movements inthe mid-and high-latitude atmosphere and oceans.In the tropical area,the value of Coriolis pa-rameter is so small that it is difficult to satisfy the bi-geostrophic equilibrium between the pressureand velocity fields.However,in the tropical area,the zonal velocity of some motions in the atmo-sphere and oceans is large,so the Coriolis force is not small,geostrophic balance can exist in zonaldirection,i.e.semi-geostrophic balance.Furthermore,in the dominant area of Hadley circulationin the atmosphere or the area near the ocean meridional boundary,the meridional velocity is large,so geostrophic balance can also exist in meridional direction.In this paper,the process of the dis-persion of inertial gravity wave and the foundation of semi-geostrophic balance are first discussed.Second,the adjustment process between the velocity and pressure fields after adaptation is alsoviewed,and the scale criterion of the semi-geostrophic adaptation is discussed,i.e.for the motionwith meridional scale greater than the equatorial Rossby radius of deformation,the velocity andpressure fields after adaptation change to fit the initial pressure field;on the contrary,the fieldschange to fit the initial zonal velocity field,and the strength of the fields after adaptation dependson the zonal scale.     

ANALYSIS ON MOUTH BAR EVOLUTION OF THE YELLOW RIVER ESTUARY

ＡＮＡＬＹＳＩＳＯＮＭＯＵＴＨＢＡＲＥＶＯＬＵＴＩＯＮＯＦＴＨＥＹＥＬＬＯＷＲＩＶＥＲＥＳＴＵＡＲＹＪＩＺｕｗｅｎ；ＨＵＣｈｕｎｈｏｎｇ（Ｅｎｇｉｎｅｅｒ，ＤｅｐａｒｔｍｅｎｔｏｆＳｅｄｉｍｅｎｔａｔｉｏｎＥｎｇｉｎｅｅｒｉｎｇ，ＣｈｉｎａＩｎｓｔｉ...     

农田尺度土壤水分的监测

根据田间试验实测资料分析了田间土壤水分的空间变化特征和时间动态变化,探索了监测农田水分变化时如何确定其合理的取样数目,讨论了农田尺度的土壤水分应如何监测,为节水灌溉,提高田间用水管理水平提供科学依据。     

强对流天气发生前期地面风场特征

根据对华东地区9次强对流天气的地面风场分析发现,强对流的发生发展与锋前暖区的中尺度辐合线有密切关系,与地面中尺度辐合线相伴的扰动辐合值为-0.8×10~(-4)·s~(-1)左右.当有移动的天气系统与其相遇时,交点附近扰动辐合值迅速增大,促使对流迅猛发展且移速加快.辐合线的形成与大尺度背景和特定地形有关.移动的中尺度辐合线与变压风有关而静正辐合线常与露点锋相伴.     

On the stability of a coupled ocean atmosphere system in the presence of wave-CISK

The stability of a simple coupled ocean-atmosphere system similar to the one studied by Hirst with general ocean thermodynamics is investigated in which the atmospheric heating is determined by sea surface temperature anomalies as well as the convergence feedback (low level moisture convergence by the waves themselves). It is shown that the unstable coupled mode found by Hirst (UH mode) is profoundly modified by the convergence feedback. The feedback increases the unstable range of the UH mode and can increase its growth rate several folds. The maximally growing UH mode can become westward propagating for certain strength of convergence feedback. If the convergence feedback strength exceeds a critical value, several new unstable intraseasonal modes are also introduced. These modes are basically ‘advective’ modes. For relatively weak strengths of the convergence feedback the growth rates of these modes are smaller than that of the UH mode. As the atmosphere approaches ‘moist neutral’ state, the growth rates of these modes could become comparable or even larger than that of the UH mode. It is argued that these results explain why the El Nino and Southern Oscillation (ENSO) signal is clear in the eastern Pacific but not so in the western Pacific and they may also explain some of the differences between individual ENSO events. Our results also explain the aperiodic behaviour of some coupled numerical models. Importance of this process in explaining the observed aperiodicity of the ENSO phenomenon is indicated.     

L_p估计的计算问题

本文对Ｌｐ估计的直接算法进行了详细的分析和讨论，由于直接算法效率低，文中提出了一种快速算法（残差逐步下降法），采用可变尺度因子来修正Ｈｕｂｅｒ的常数尺度因子。最后，以实例加以分析和说明。     

Interannual Fluctuations of Surface Air Temperature over North America and Its Relationship to the North Pacific SST Anomaly

The characteristics of interannual fluctuations of the surface air temperature over North America are investigated by using the surface air temperature data of 130 stations during 1941 through 1980. It is found that the surface air temperature bears about ten-year time scale oscillation over the southeastern and northwestern North America and along the west coast of the United States, and it has the characteristics of quasibiennial oscillation over the eastern North America. The ten-year scale oscillation of the surface air temperature is related to that of the sea surface temperature (SST) of North Pacific through the PNA pattern atmospheric circulation anomaly over North Pacific through North America. It is shown that the North Pacific SST has a closer association with the surface air temperature over North America than the central and eastern equatorial Pacific SST. The characteristics of the seasonal variations of the relationship between the North Pacific SST and the surface air temperature over No