Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

中太平洋CP25岩心的矿物、稀土元素及Sr、Nd同位素组成--晚新生代海底火山活动的证据

中太平洋ＣＰ２５岩心沉积物中钙十字沸石、蒙脱石／伊利石比值（Ｍ／Ｉ）、稀土元素含量、铈异常（δＣｅ）、铕异常（δＥｕ）及Ｓｒ、Ｎｄ同位素特征作为海底火山活动的证据,揭示了中太平洋海盆晚新生代以来火山活动和沉积的历史。其结果是,早中新世约２０～１７ＭａＢ．Ｐ．间,火山活动逐渐强烈,在１７ＭａＢ．Ｐ．最强烈,使得沉积物具有高Ｍ／Ｉ和∈Ｎｄ、低δＣｅ和８７Ｓｒ／８６Ｓｒ。１７～１ＭａＢ．Ｐ．发生沉积间断。１ＭａＢ．Ｐ．至现代,火山活动较早中新世减弱     

近58a来影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋统计特征分析

本文利用1949-2006年热带气旋资料,对58a来影响和登陆浙江热带气旋的登陆位置、登陆时间的年际、月际和日变化、登陆后的移速及路径变化与降水中心分布的关系、登陆后维持和衰减情况等进行了统计分析.统计结果表明：影响和登陆浙江的热带气旋有较明显的年际、月际和日变化特征;登陆浙江的热带气旋陆上维持时间与登陆时的强度正相关,登陆后12h内热带气旋衰减较快;登陆后移向偏北分量大的或移速加快的热带气旋,主要降水区出现在路径右侧的可能性大.     

热带气旋在东海的活动及其灾害分析

本文根据1949～1989年热带气旋历史资料,对影响东海的热带气旋进行了统计分析,结果表明,热带气旋在东海的活动相当频繁,特别是7、8、9三个月;热带气旋逐年出现个数有明显的年际波动和季节性变化;进入东海的热带气旋大致分为七类路径,不同路径的热带气旋对东海沿岸地区造成不同程度的危害,其灾情以具体实例作了阐述。     

大西洋中脊热液硫化物的矿物学研究

利用１９８９年在大西洋热液活动区采集的块状硫化物样品，采用矿相显微镜、电子显微镜和电子探针等手段，进行了矿物共生组合、矿物形态与成分标型及其演化特征研究。结果表明，大西洋热液成矿作用可以划分为热液期与沉积期两个成矿期，和石英－黄铁矿阶段、黄铁矿阶段、多金属硫化物阶段、胶状黄铁矿阶段和非晶质ＳｉＯ２阶段等５个成矿阶段；不同成矿阶段黄铁矿的共生矿物和矿物特征不同，在晶体形态上具有从单形晶－聚形晶－胶状     

Estimating the geostrophic velocity obtained by HF radar observations in the upstream area of the Kuroshio

A method to extract geostrophic current in the daily mean HF radar data in the Kuroshio upstream region is established by comparison with geostrophic velocity determined from the along-track altimetry data. The estimated Ekman current in the HF velocity is 1.2% (1.5%) and 48° (38°)-clockwise rotated with respect to the daily mean wind in (outside) the Kuroshio. Furthermore, additional temporal smoothing is found necessary to remove residual ageostrophic currents such as the inertial oscillation. After removal of the ageostrophic components, the HF geostrophic velocity agrees well with that from the altimetry data with rms difference 0.14 (0.12) m/s in (outside) the Kuroshio.     

Validity of sea surface temperature observed with the TRITON buoy under diurnal heating conditions

In order to investigate the validity of buoy-observed sea surface temperature (SST), we installed special instruments to measure near-surface ocean temperature on the TRITON buoy moored at 2.07°N, 138.06°E from 2 to 13 March 2004, in addition to a standard buoy sensor for the regular SST measurement at 1.5-m depth. Large diurnal SST variations were observed during this period, and the variations of the temperatures at about 0.3-m depth could be approximately simulated by a one-dimensional numerical model. However, there was a notable discrepancy between the buoy-observed 1.5-m-depth SST (SST_1.5m) and the corresponding model-simulated temperature only during the daytime when the diurnal rise was large. The evaluation of the heat balance in the sea surface layer showed that the diurnal rise of the SST_1.5m in these cases could not be accounted for by solar heating alone. We examined the depth of the SST_1.5m sensor and the near-surface temperature observed from a ship near the buoy, and came to the conclusion that the solar heating of the buoy hull and/or a disturbance in the temperature field around the buoy hull would contribute to the excessive diurnal rise of the SST_1.5m observed with the TRITON buoy. However, the temperature around the hull was not sufficiently homogenized, as suggested in a previous paper. For the diurnal rise of the SST_1.5m exceeding 0.5 K, the daytime buoy data became doubtful, through dynamics that remain to be clarified. A simple formula is proposed to correct the unexpected diurnal amplitude of the buoy SST_1.5m.     

The POC / Th ratio of settling particles isolated using split flow-thin cell fractionation (SPLITT)

The common assumption that the ratio between particulate organic carbon (POC) and particulate ²³⁴Th obtained from shallow sediment traps and filterable particles are representative of the ratio in the total particle settling flux should be treated with caution in view of well-known biases associated with tethered shallow sediment traps and the decoupling between size and settling velocity of many natural particle regimes. To make progress toward reliably constraining the POC / ²³⁴Th ratio on truly settling particles, we have tested here a settling collection technique designed to remove any hydrodynamic bias; split flow-thin cell fractionation (SPLITT). These first results from a North Sea fjord and an open Baltic Sea time-series station indicates that the POC / ²³⁴Th ratio on the more complete particle-settling spectrum, isolated with SPLITT, was higher than the POC / ²³⁴Th ratio obtained simultaneously from tethered shallow sediment traps in seven out of seven parallel deployments with an average factor of 210%. The POC / ²³⁴Th ratio from the SPLITT was either in the same range or higher than that obtained on filtered “bulk” particles. To explain this novel data we hypothesize that the slowest settling fraction is organic-matter rich and does not strongly complex ²³⁴Th (i.e., high POC / ²³⁴Th). We suggest that this ultra-slow sinking fraction is better collected by SPLITT than with tethered sediment traps because of minimized hydrodynamic bias.This was tested using the ratio of POC / Al as a tracer of detrital mineral-ballast influenced settling velocity. The higher POC / Al ratios in SPLITT samples relative to in traps is consistent with the hypothesis that SPLITT is better suited for collecting also the slow-settling component of sinking particles. This important slow-settling component appears to here consist primarily of non-APS/TEP components of plankton exudates or other less-strongly ²³⁴Th-complexing organic matter. Further applications of the SPLITT technique are likely to return increasingly new insights on the composition (including “truly settling” POC / ²³⁴Th) of the total spectrum of particles settling out of the upper ocean.     

融冰季节北极破碎冰区热通量的初步研究

利用航空遥感数字影像的解析结果和实测气象，海洋和海冰资料，定量研究了夏季融冰期北极破碎冰区的热通量，计算了海洋对大气的热贡献，结果表明，在北极夏季海冰融化时，短波辐射远远大于感热和潜热通量，是表面热通量的决定因素，海洋对大气的热贡献主要由长波辐射决定，在观测期间，海洋对大气的热贡献为38～104Wm^-2，这部分热量的大小与海冰的密集度有关，当海冰密集度小于0.8时，海洋对大气的热贡献随海冰密度度的增大而减小，而当海冰密集度超过0.8以后，该热通量将随海冰密集度的增大而增大。     

9810号台风期间厦门近岸海域磷的分布特征

于1998年10号台风期间及台风解除后一周内，对九龙江口和西海域表层水中总磷（TP）、溶解态无机磷（DIP）、溶解态有机磷（DOP）、颗粒态磷（PP）、颗粒态无机磷（PIP）和颗粒态有机磷（POP）进行了为期9d（10月26日至11月3日）的现场观测。根据观测结果，讨论了台风对上述各形态磷的分布特征的影响，认为台风伴随的增水、入海径流量的骤增和底质再悬浮的加剧导致表层水体中各形态磷含量的短期增加。