Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

Tidally incised valleys on tropical carbonate shelves: An example from the northern Great Barrier Reef, Australia

The formation of incised valleys on continental shelves is generally attributed to fluvial erosion under low sea level conditions. However, there are exceptions. A multibeam sonar survey at the northern end of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, adjacent to the southern edge of the Gulf of Papua, mapped a shelf valley system up to 220 m deep that extends for more than 90 km across the continental shelf. This is the deepest shelf valley yet found in the Great Barrier Reef and is well below the maximum depth of fluvial incision that could have occurred under a − 120 m, eustatic sea level low-stand, as what occurred on this margin during the last ice age. These valleys appear to have formed by a combination of reef growth and tidal current scour, probably in relation to a sea level at around 30–50 m below its present position.

Tidally incised depressions in the valley floor exhibit closed bathymetric contours at both ends. Valley floor sediments are mainly calcareous muddy, gravelly sand on the middle shelf, giving way to well-sorted, gravely sand containing a large relict fraction on the outer shelf. The valley extends between broad platform reefs and framework coral growth, which accumulated through the late Quaternary, coincides with tidal current scour to produce steep-sided (locally vertical) valley walls. The deepest segments of the valley were probably the sites of lakes during the last ice age, when Torres Strait formed an emergent land-bridge between Australia and Papua New Guinea. Numerical modeling predicts that the strongest tidal currents occur over the deepest, outer-shelf segment of the valley when sea level is about 40–50 m below its present position. These results are consistent with a Pleistocene age and relict origin of the valley.

Based on these observations, we propose a new conceptual model for the formation of tidally incised shelf valleys. Tidal erosion on meso- to macro-tidal, rimmed carbonate shelves is enhanced during sea level rise and fall when a tidal, hydraulic pressure gradient is established between the shelf-lagoon and the adjacent ocean basin. Tidal flows attain a maximum, and channel incision is greatest, when a large hydraulic pressure gradient coincides with small channel cross sections. Our tidal-incision model may explain the observation of other workers, that sediment is exported from the Great Barrier Reef shelf to the adjacent ocean basins during intermediate (rather than last glacial maximum) low-stand, sea level positions. The model may apply to other rimmed shelves, both modern and ancient.     

The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, River Murray, Australia

Australia's largest river, the River Murray, discharges to the southern ocean through a coastal lagoon and river-dominated tidal inlet. Increased water extractions upstream for irrigation have led to significantly reduced flows at the mouth and, as a result, the area is undergoing rapid change, particularly with regard to the rate at which sediment is being transported into the lagoon. Based on detailed and accurate bathymetric surveys it has been possible to estimate that the rate of lagoon in-filling is of the order of 100,000 m³ per year for the period June 2000 to May 2003, although the actual rate shows significant year to year variability. Dredging of the lagoon commenced in 2000 in an attempt to reverse the trend.In an effort to understand the behaviour of the inlet a one-dimensional numerical model of the inlet has been developed. The model extends the original of van de Kreeke by including a dynamic inlet throat area based on predicted river flows and a sediment transport module to predict the resulting net sediment transport. Comparisons with water level data collected on both the ocean and lagoon sides of the mouth have shown that the model is able to predict the attenuation and lag of the tidal signal reasonably well. The sediment transport model was based on predicted sediment concentrations in the surf zone and was found to predict the rate of sediment in-filling to an acceptable level of accuracy. It is envisaged that the model will be a useful management tool, especially since it is possible to manipulate river discharges to the mouth.     

Investigation on the Deposition in an Excavated Trough at the East Shore of Jiaozhou Bay, China

- Based on field investigations, this paper analyzes three types of harbour basinns and navigation channel excavated on seabed in Jiaozhou Bay, get a general rule of deposition for excavated trough, it found that pollution is one of crucial factors resulting in the deposition of the excavated trough in the east shore of Jiaozhou Bay. With these results, it predicted the annual deposition thickness for the excavated trough and disclosed the fact that it can't be deposited deadly during one storm. At the same time, with two-dimensional numerical model, it studied the effects of the excavated trough and the reclamation near shore on tidal cureent and said that the excavated trough can decrease the current velocity passing through the trough about 10- 15%, but only limited inside and near the trough and there are no effect on other regions; reclamation can cut off the pollution sources and no obvious effect on the currents of the Jiaozhou Bay. Connecting the deep trough and Cangkou tidal channel with a new     

青岛—石臼所沿岸潮流特征分析

本文对青岛—石臼所沿岸潮流特征进行了分析。实际观测资料表明,这一带潮流具有典型的往复流性质,并有较明显的不对称性和较大的垂直变化。文中指出涨落潮流不对称性是由于余流和分潮流影响的结果。讨论了不对称性随余流和分潮流的变化和潮流垂直梯度的特征。不对称和垂直梯度对泥沙运动和污染扩散的影响在文中也作了阐述。     

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.     

Experimental Study on Vortex-Induced Vibrations of Submarine Pipeline near Seabed Boundary in Ocean Currents

1 .IntroductionThe submarine pipeline is a commonfacility widely usedfor offshore oil and gastransport . Whena pipeline is installed on a seabed and not buried,unsupportedspans may exist insomelocations ,es-peciallyinthe uneven zones of the seabed.The spa…     

Regional variation in springtime ichthyoplankton assemblages in the northeast Pacific Ocean

The coastal regions of the northeast Pacific support large, economically valuable fishery resources and provide nursery areas for many fish species. Over the last few decades, there have been dramatic shifts in species abundance and composition in this area. In this paper, we examine the springtime spatial patterns in the ichthyoplankton of three oceanographically different regions, the Southeast Bering Sea, the Gulf of Alaska and the U.S. West Coast. The data examined are a subset of a larger database (comprising data from cruises conducted from 1972 to 1997) that is being used to investigate spatial, seasonal and interannual patterns in ichthyoplankton of the northeast Pacific in relation to environmental conditions. Ichthyoplankton were collected during seven cruises using 60-cm bongo nets. Spatial patterns of ichthyoplankton were examined using both classification and ordination techniques. Relative Bray-Curtis dissimilarity coefficients calculated from the log₁₀ (n+1) of abundance data were used as input to the numerical classification of species and stations. Nonmetric multidimensional scaling was also applied to the abundance data to examine geometric patterns in the data. The numerical analyses of the species abundance data sets for each cruise revealed spatial patterns in the ichthyoplankton that suggest the occurrence of geographically distinct assemblages of fish larvae in each region. For all three sampling regions, the assemblage structure is primarily related to bathymetry, and Shelf, Slope, and Deep-Water assemblages are described. This shallow to deep-water gradient in species occurrence and abundance reflects the habitat preference and spawning location of the adult fish. Another degree of complexity is superimposed on this primary assemblage structure in each region and seems to be related to local topography and the prevailing current patterns. The patterns in ichthyoplankton assemblages of the three regions in the northeast Pacific Ocean described here form the basis for future investigations of spatial and temporal patterns in the ichthyoplankton of the subarctic Pacific.Regional Index Terms: Northeast Pacific Ocean, Southeast Bering Sea, Gulf of Alaska, U.S. West Coast.     

Coastal geomorphic evolution at the Denglou Cape, the Leizhou Peninsula

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