山东半岛北岸现代海滩层理及动态解释

海滩层理由冲、回流塑造的向海倾前滨楔状交错层理和冲越流形成的向陆倾后滨斜层理组成,二者构成假背斜构造。近年在烟台—莱州岸段海滩上开挖了10个垂岸探槽,揭示出这里海滩以向陆倾后滨层理为主,并且被暴风浪侵蚀面所斜切,该面向海的前滨层理只留下几十厘米的薄层,说明近几十年海岸持续遭受侵蚀,海滩的前滨层理被多次暴风浪切割掉;按暴风浪期后滨层理层系特征分析,海岸蚀退率为1~1.5 m/a,与其他方法得到的结论相仿。个别探槽亦见前滨层理为主,反映出局部淤岸环境。由此说明,海滩层理的组构特征可以标志海岸的淤、蚀动态。     

南海北部晚全新世高海平面及其波动的海滩沉积证据

揭示晚全新世以来的海平面变化过程对于理解海平面所处的现状和变化的趋势等具有重要意义。构造活动相对稳定的雷州半岛珊瑚礁区蕴藏着丰富的海平面变化信息,文中对该区晚全新世发育的海滩沉积序列研究表明,距今约1.7～1.2Cal.kaBP(14C年代为2.1～1.7kaBP)期间总体上是一个海平面持续上升的时期,其中在距今约1.5Cal.kaBP时海平面有过短暂的下降波动,约1.2Cal.kaBP时的海平面比现在的至少高128cm;之后海平面开始下降,至今海岸线后退了约210m,形成现代海滩-沙堤地貌体系。结合本区珊瑚礁记录的全新世其他时段海平面的变化特征,本文认为全新世海平面与气候变化一样,也存在千年、百年、年代际尺度的波动特征。     

海阳市典型砂质海岸侵蚀机制与防护对策研究

海阳市砂质海岸资源丰富,延绵近120 km,尤以万米沙滩浴场著称,但近年岸滩侵蚀严重影响其社会经济发展.本研究基于海阳市羊角畔两侧长约20 km典型砂质海岸连续3 a的海岸线蚀和典型剖面蚀淤调查,定量化研究海滩侵蚀及其变化,辅以一维数值模型,研究人类活动影响下的泥沙运动特征和海滩侵蚀机制.研究结果表明,调查区42.5％...     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

Differences in vegetation characteristics with shoreline position on a tropical pocket beach

ABSTRACT

Composition and richness of coastal vegetation differs with distance from the water and sheltering by topography. Transition from pioneer beach plants to mature forests is expected to be narrow on low wave energy coasts with a tropical climate favorable to vegetation growth. The goal of this paper is to determine whether vegetation on the beach and foredune will be denser and have a greater number of species and more woody shrubs near the water as wave and wind stresses diminish because of favorable shoreline orientation within a pocket beach. Field data on beach width, beach mobility, dune height, vegetation species, vegetation height and percent vegetation cover were collected in Puerto Rico along six cross-shore transects. Beaches are more stable at transects in the lee of an eolianite barrier and a tombolo. The vegetation gradient there is compressed, with denser, taller, more diverse vegetation and more tree species close to the waterline than at more exposed sites. The lack of mobility of the beaches and dunes and lack of geomorphically significant disturbance events is in contrast to the conspicuous feedbacks between overwash, topography, and vegetation on exposed mid-latitude coasts, revealing the need for more study of low-energy beach environments.     

Application of the Static Headland-Bay Beach Concept to a Sandy Beach: A New Elliptical Model

The headland-bay beach is one of the most common coastal types in the world.Its morphology reflects the changes that occurred during long-term evolution of the sandy coast.Several headland-bay beach models have been proposed to simulate the coastline’s configuration in equilibrium.In this paper,a new elliptical model is proposed,described,and applied.On the east coast of Laizhou Bay in Shandong Province from Longkou Port to Diaolongzui,four typical headland-bay beaches have developed,and four headland-bay beach models are used in this paper to simulate the morphology of these beaches to assess the applicability of each model.The simulation results of the elliptical model verify that it is applicable to the study area.In addition,the elliptical model is easy to use.Through simulation and field investigations,we concluded that most of the coastal segments in this area will remain in an erosion state,and the human activity has a significant impact on the shoreline’s evolution.     

利津洼陷沙四上亚段滩坝沉积特征及控制因素分析

通过岩心观察、测井和地震资料分析,运用沉积学、层序地层学理论,将利津洼陷沙四上亚段分为1个层序3个体系域（LST、TST、HST）,并细分为7个准层序组。研究了滩坝砂岩的沉积特征和在准层序组内的平面展布,以准层序组1、2滨浅湖滩坝最发育,准层序组3、4风暴滩坝最发育,准层序组6、7砂质滩坝发育差但发育碳酸盐滩坝。对滩坝控制因素进行了探讨,首次提出了“气（气候）-源（物源）-盆（盆地）”系统控滩坝的分析思路,是对传统“源控论”的完善与补充,可更合理解释滩坝的成因和分布,增加预测性。     

基于机载LiDAR的沿海滩涂地形图制作方法研究

在当前海洋经济的发展迫切需要高精度的沿海滩涂地形数据作为海洋工程规划实施保障的背景下,本文基于浙江省海洋测绘工程的实践,提出了一套基于机载LiDAR技术进行滩涂地形图制作的方法。通过对滩涂地形图的表达形式、制作流程以及高程要素提取和多源数据融合等关键技术问题进行研究,在全国率先完成了全省高精度滩涂地形图的绘制,实现了浙江省地形图的陆海一体化,相关经验对国内类似项目的开展具有重要的参考意义。     

A numerical model for shore-normal sediment size variation on a macrotidal beach

This paper describes a computer simulation model which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone. The predicted grain size is used in an hydraulic interpretation of grain size distribution on the intertidal profile, based on the hydrodynamic variations over a tidal cycle on a macrotidal beach. The model is successful in predicting the broad pattern of increasing grain size in the onshore direction which has been observed in nature. Comparisons between measured and predicted grain size distributions indicate that the predictions of the model are better than those of previous models, but the model is more successful at predicting sediment size distributions than at predicting mean sizes on a beach profile.     

Longshore Currents over Barred Beach with Mild Slope

The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the location and ratio of two peaks of longshore currents. The location and ratio of two peaks are controlled by the sand bar. The influences of wave heights and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile, with the emphasis on the effect of lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.